CV Axle Puller Tool for 100 Series LC/LX470 (1 Viewer)

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I created this tool to help pull the CV axle of your 100 Series LC/LX470 as far outward as possible to aid in measuring & installing a properly sized snap ring. This tool is made from 16ga. 14ga galvanneal 304-4 stainless steel drilled and reamed on a manual vertical mill laser cut on an Amada Ensis 3015AJ and bent on an Amada HD2204 NT press brake. As of 11/24/21 I am now only offering these tools in the 304-4 stainless steel finish. All hardware is included. More info can be found in this thread - Wheel Bearing Service w/Pics. What I call the two outer "support" bolts can rest either on the hub flange studs, or the alignment dimples as shown in the last 2 pics.

PRICE IS $30 + SHIPPING. I typically use USPS Small Priority Mail Boxes so expect $8.65. Pm or post here if you'd like one!

What's included:
- 6" 16ga 14ga 304-4 stainless steel
- (2x) 3/8-16 x 3" outer support bolts
- (2x) 3/8-16 hex nuts
- (1x) M8 x 1.25 x 50mm axle bolt
- (5x) flat washers

Cross-posted in the 100 tech thread here - CV Axle Puller Tool for 100 Series LC/LX470

Crazy adventure of @ramangain using it as an emergency tool to get back home after his snap ring failed and he no longer had a groove to fit a new one. Drove from OR to NM with it attached: Will It Make It 950 Miles?

UPDATE 10/20/20: I currently have a resupply of steel square tubing on the way so I'm looking at the next batch being ready for shipment on 10/28/20

UPDATE 10/28/20: 5 currently in stock ready to ship! Got more material & hardware coming in Saturday so hopefully I can always keep these in stock. Still working on the coating. So far I've tried gloss black, semi-gloss black, and flat black (all enamel paints); out of all those the flat black seems to be the best looking, most resistant to scratching/chipping, and closest to a 'powdercoat' finish

UPDATE 10/30/20: Due to abundant free time I made another batch so I now have about 16 completed and ready for shipping! PM if you’d like one. Like I said before I’ve been experimenting with coatings for a while now, but I’ve finally settled on flat black enamel. If you received any other finish and want the flat black instead, just let me know and I’ll send another piece of square tubing out to you at no cost.

UPDATE 1/27/21: I currently have 5 parts in stock and ready to ship. I recently got a new job and I'm also closing on a new house at the end of this month/early next month so I'm putting my projects on hold temporarily. However, give me a month and I'll be back up and running! I also have access to CNC lasers, mills, and press brakes now so that should be very helpful for my future projects!

UPDATE 3/12/21: Currently experimenting with alternative manufacturing methods by basically making 2 C-channels that nest inside one another making the square tubing. I am having a few units cut using an Amada Ensis 3015AJ fiber laser, bending them using an Amada HD2204NT press brake, and possibly weld it in just a couple spots along the seam but still trying to decide whether it's worth that last step. With the precision I can achieve it's basically an interference fit, and when tightening down the bolts they only bring the pieces together even more.

Project To-Do List (Coming Soon!):

1) Emergency Flange Cap Kit - Eliminates the need for a c-clip in the event it self destructions at an inconvenient time. Will include a 304 or 316 stainless steel flush cap, axle bolt, & wrench
2) Spindle Grease Tool - Eliminates the need to remove the axle nuts/washers and altering wheel bearing preload in order to grease the spindle bearings. This tool will only require removal of the dust cap, c-clip, & hub flange. Can be done with all 4 wheels on the ground! I've been trying to incorporate this design into Project #1 by simply drilling and tapping a hole in the side or top of the flush cap for a grease zerk fitting, but the imbalance of weight and need for a counterweight is proving to be more than I care to incorporate in what's supposed to be a 'simple' tool. Plus the fact that it also needs an o-ring at the base to prevent grease squeeze where it meets the locking nut adds another level of difficulty. Will more than likely end up making this a dedicated tool but we'll see.


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Raw 14ga galvanneal steel before epoxy paint

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Raw 14ga 304-4 stainless steel with no added finish

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Original inspiration for the idea getting the gap to a snug 0.002in:

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All buttoned up and running much more smoothly and cooler at the flanges.

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I received mine the other day- thank you. Simple solution, great idea. 👍
 
It removes the anxiety from doing this job again in the future. Nice job!
 
Next round of 13 going out today, thanks everyone! If you ordered you should’ve received a shipping notification via email. If you didn’t then let me know and I’ll hunt it down for you.

I have 5 in stock and ready to ship!

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Cool tool. I've done the CV job/pulling it out to replace the seal at least 3-4 times now. Always been using a small pry bar in the diff and CV gap, makes me wonder now if I've been doing it wrong.
 
Got around to making another 16 today so that I can always have these tools in stock and ready for shipping same day or next day. Like I said I've been experimenting with different coatings for a while but have since settled on flat black enamel being the best option for this application. It looks the best, seems to be the most scratch/chip resistant, and is the closest to a powdercoat look without costing powdercoat prices. I have considered doing actual powdercoat in the past, but considering what you're getting I don't think it'd be worth while after cost-benefit analysis. Plus, this is meant to be just another tool that will get scratched and banged up in your tool drawer alongside pliers and screwdrivers. With that being said - if you have received a different finish (ie. semi-gloss, gloss, or just unhappy with the quality of finish you received) let me know and I'll send another piece of square tubing out no charge to you.

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Mine is shipping!
 
This reminds me I need to check my CV. Last time I had them out my gap was huuuuge. Super easy to pull it out far enough to get the ring in
 
Can you ship to Canada?
 
Got mine last week! Can't wait to use it. @TheForger shipped it out quickly and it came with color instructions!
 
Slowly trying to put this together. Might have to incorporate an o-ring at the base of the pvc cap to prevent squeeze out but we’ll see. Currently working on fine tuning the bracket. In the end it’ll be made of 1” steel flat bar, not the 3/4” aluminum flat bar as pictured. Regardless, you’ll still be able to grease the spindle bearings without removal of the wheel or locking/adjusting nuts; only the hub flange

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Is the spindle bearing interval more frequent than the hub bearings?
Nope. According to the Toyota Scheduled Maintenance Guide both the wheel bearings and spindle bearings (also called "drive shaft bearings") are recommended to be serviced at the same interval - 30k miles.

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Please excuse my ignorance with these questions since I am just getting all my tools together to perform my first wheel bearing maintenance.
  1. Is the concept of greasing the spindle bearing with the new tool that the grease is pushed in the gap I marked in red?
  2. Is there a benefit to being able to grease the spindle bearings without removal of the wheel or locking/adjusting nuts? Don't those items have to be removed to grease the inner/outer wheel bearings or is it possible they get greased at the same time while installed with this method?
Either way, seems like the tool is really useful and I will be interested in picking one up when they are ready.

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Thanks! I read through that thread and am planning to use that method for the time being. I am just curious about the mechanics behind this and how it works.
 

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