CV Axle Ball joint removal question

[Romer]

When we replaced Sarah's front axle, we used a Pitman Arm Puller. The bottom separated with no issues. The top squished the bolt a bit and we had to file and dremel and work the threads to get it to work. This took half the repair time. The point of the Pitman Arm Puller was in the center of the bolt, I made sure of that.

My Pitman Arm Puller looks like the same one used in other threads here so not sure why it did that.

Now my axle is leaking and need to replace it. Is there something unique about the top bolt that I should use something else like a fork type removal tool. I have one of those as well

Anyone else have this issue?

 

[spressomon]

Most often Ken I can, using a hefty ball peen hammer, whack the protrusion on the steering knuckle (that is it's purpose BTW) and get the mating taper surfaces freed.

 

[paflytyer]

Most often Ken I can, using a hefty ball peen hammer, whack the protrusion on the steering knuckle (that is it's purpose BTW) and get the mating taper surfaces freed.

Two hammers on each side should drop it out too. It's the force and shock of the hammer hitting that elongates the pin for a split second allowing it to drop out.

 

[jcrandall]

maybe I'm just not mechanically inclined, but I could never get the hammer technique to work. I used the larger puller from autozone and had no significant issues like deformed bolts. Since this is the rare situation where the hammer method is the "correct" method, could one of you guys do a quick "hammer the knuckle for dummies" post? Like a picture with the spot you hit circled and the direction? Much appreciated in advance.

 

[spressomon]

maybe I'm just not mechanically inclined, but I could never get the hammer technique to work. I used the larger puller from autozone and had no significant issues like deformed bolts. Since this is the rare situation where the hammer method is the "correct" method, could one of you guys do a quick "hammer the knuckle for dummies" post? Like a picture with the spot you hit circled and the direction? Much appreciated in advance.

#12

 

[jcrandall]

Appreciate that, it appears that I just wasn't hitting the boss hard enough. I could have sworn I was smacking the wrong place, but I guess not. Thanks for the link.

 

[Slickspawn]

My preference is to use a brass hammer. I think I have a 2lb brass hammer that I got 20 years ago and it still works. Plus I feel better using brass. You'll need some man sized swings at the flat spot

 

[Romer]

Thanks for the replies. I do have a BFH that will work nice

 

[Romer]

Hammer method worked great. Thanks for the tip. Used a pitman on the lower, but that is a wider beefier bolt. Took me a while to get the CV in. I had the ring at the end facing down. Tried the 2x2 against the lip. Got a big board against the shaft and hit the board but took me almost an hour fiddling to get it in. Tips there would be appreciated

 

[spressomon]

When inserting the CV axle shaft into the diff side, if that is where you had problems Ken, sometimes they just snap right in and other times its a chore. I've never determined why. But, generally, if I get a stubborn unit I just reinsert moving around the "clock" so to speak and find the sweet spot. I can't remember ever needing to hammer it home.

 

[badlander]

Related question:
The manual says so but does the opening of the clip really need to be at the bottom when you insert the shaft into the diff.? Is there a non-symetrical recess in the diff for it to fit into in that position? It naturally wants to rotate to the top due to gravity and I put grease on it to hold it in place but by the time I ended up messing around trying to get mine in there's no telling where it ended up.....
It did go in and lock into place though.

 

[Romer]

When inserting the CV axle shaft into the diff side, if that is where you had problems Ken, sometimes they just snap right in and other times its a chore. I've never determined why. But, generally, if I get a stubborn unit I just reinsert moving around the "clock" so to speak and find the sweet spot. I can't remember ever needing to hammer it home.

That is where I had the problem. I didn't turn it because of the clip pointing down. Like the other posters question I guess is that really something required or once you get it to a point you can turn it because the clip isn't going anywhere.

Still much better than an 80 series axle

 

[ton504]

A little late but you didn't have to remove the spindle/lower ball joint. You can get the axles out by just popping the upper joint like you did.