Cutting front fenders???? (1 Viewer)

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okay I've been searching the last past 2 nights about how to cut my front fenders and the real concern is not how to cut the actual fender but how to cut the inner front fender. What I've come up with was 2 ways:

1. Pizza slice them, bend and weld them to the cut outer fender

2. Just cut the inner fender completely off at the half way seam. (Leaning towards this option)

Which did you guys do?

I've researched and people are concerned about water/mud splashing to the fuse/junction area. But with both ways mud and water will splash because of the openings.

If you welded the inner fender to the outer, are you still able to remove the fender just in case it needs to be replaced?

If you cut the inner fender at the halfway seam, is the fender strong enough to dangle on its own without support?

I just installed 37's and I need to cut 2 inches off the fender, don't want to space down the travel.

Also, is 2 inches enough?
How much have you cut?
 
Not sure how much total lift you're running, wheel specs, spacers, panhards, etc. but I'm running 37"s with approx 4" of total lift and haven't cut my fenders at all with zero rubbing. Before I switched to adjustable panhards i was getting rubbing on one side when flexing because of axle placement but with adjustable panhards and the rub spots in the fenders hammered out I haven't had any rubbing issues even fully flexed at full steering lock, either side.
 
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As you can see, still have about 3 inches of up travel and I can't even turn without rubbing.

I'm running 5 inch back spacing 17x9 37/12.5r17 dynapro my tire with a 1.5 inch spacer.
 
I cut the inner fender into pizza slices and bent the slices up out of the way. This gives a little rigidity to the outer fender and helps keep sh*t out from behind the fender (though mud an water still find their way in). You can also still remove the outer fender, if you want, which you can't (easily) do if you weld them.

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The wheel wells I've cut (NOT my own!!), I've cut into pizza slices about 1/2 the size of BlueCruiser84's, and just bent them up like he did. If you weld them you'll pay heck to get the inners off if they ever need to come off. I've seen some guys use seam sealer to help keep water and trash out, but I've never had a big issue with it.
 
I cut a pie shape piece of the fender starting at the bottom about 1 3/4" to 0 leaving the lip to all most the top front and back side of the wheel well then I used a 1/8 steel rod to weld it back up little tack weld at a time to get it back together used a BFM to beat the inner wheel well into place redrilled the holes moved the clip and no more rub with 37s did this front & rear

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Run those tires on a narrower wheel with the right backspacing and you don't need to remove flairs, or cut fenders, or run spacers. It's a lot less work.

How can you turn fully stuffed though without losing your up travel?

Have any pictures? And what size rim/backspacing/tire can you run without rubbing?
 
How can you turn fully stuffed though without losing your up travel?

Have any pictures? And what size rim/backspacing/tire can you run without rubbing?

I am running MB Wheels from Discount Tire, it is their house label, I think. They are 8.5 x 17 with factory 4.5 backspacing. I have run Nitto Trail Grapplers, Cooper STTs, and Cooper STT Pros, all without any interference. I average about 7000 miles a year researching, locating, exploring, evaluating, and repairing trails for the Tonto NF. Never know what we will find when we go out. Some are boring, some are "Oh My God"s, and some are just plain abandon in place. It's just a terrible job. That's why I don't get paid for doing it.
 
The wheel wells I've cut (NOT my own!!), I've cut into pizza slices about 1/2 the size of BlueCruiser84's, and just bent them up like he did. If you weld them you'll pay heck to get the inners off if they ever need to come off. I've seen some guys use seam sealer to help keep water and trash out, but I've never had a big issue with it.

The reason I cut to where I did is there is a "natural", curve to the inner fender where you will see maximal clearance gains. The fender also bends a little better along that curve. You'll see what I mean once you get in there and start pizza-slicing and bending.
 
I took a 3" arc out of the outer fender. Pie-cut the inner fender to match and pushed it up. I don't drive in a lot of wet weather so this works for me.

When I first installed the 37s, it would rub as soon as I turned the wheel:

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Cutting the inner fender:

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Afterwards:

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Because I moved my axle a few inches forward as part of the 3-link, I would still get some rubbing at full stuff so I cut even more towards the front, changing the arc of the outer fender and angling it more towards the turn signals. I like the final look, gives it a more aggressive appearance.

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So far the tires have been able to move freely without rubbing the inner fenders...

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For the rear, cut out as much as I could without getting into the door opening.

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Then welded and sealed it shut.

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Jury in, did I need to cut the fenders for clearance (not really), probably just a pie cut like BROSKY did.

But the inner fenders did bind up really bad front and back. Need either a BFH to bend those in, but in my case I may just cut them out since I'm on a cutting spree.

As for cutting the fenders I'm checking around for a driver front fender and just pie cut them, or just reweld on te piece I cut and recut the bottom.

As for the rear only real place needed to cut is the rear bumper area. Pie cut as well.

Ohh, BTW the forklift is over 40 inches high

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