Cutting fenders and Paint for CM06 (1 Viewer)

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Do remember that the front diff mounting pattern is considerably different between the lock and non-lock axle housings.
 
Here is a shot of the inner fender. You can see the fanned out OE inner fender with the new sheet metal welded into place. Still need to seal the small open gaps on the inside.
innerfenderpor1wq.jpg


Filling fender flare holes. This is the back side with a small chunk of 18g sheet metal to back fill the hole.
holefill1por6be.jpg


Shot of myself with some quality time on the TIG (Love my new Dynasty 200DX TIG!)
tigpor9wc.jpg


Once the back fill chip is in place, the fender is flipped over and the front side is carefully filled in with steel. (.045 rod at 30amps) Then the surface is prepped for a smooth finish. I will wipe the area with some glazing compound prior to paint, there is a few tiny spots for fill.
holefill2por4ll.jpg

Mark
 
Ok changing the color is murder on time for painting a truck! The first shot took 4 hrs to prep and mask! The second shot took the same amount of time. I wanted to get the jams painted before I went home yesterday but knocked off at 2:30AM. Back at it today and will get the them done. This puts me off by a day. I wont have time for my own truck tomorrow (ahm. Woody) , but will try to sneak some time in the evening. MUST STAY ON SCHEDULE!

Once the paint is down it has to have time to cook off like a few weeks before you can put anything on it. This will be a problem since there is a nice roll of vinyl sitting in the office waiting to be fed through the plotter to logo it up. Gota do it so I will just roll the dice on it.

mask1por7dp.jpg

mask2por9kl.jpg


Where is the shop gimp when you need him…… eh he’s on the hook to help pull the axels apart, next week.

Mark
 
helocat said:
O I wont have time for my own truck tomorrow (ahm. Woody) , but will try to sneak some time in the evening. MUST STAY ON SCHEDULE!

if my "delivery" comes in Persimmon, I'll know why :flipoff2:

nice mask Mark... :grinpimp:

wish I was sneakin out for CM06 to see it in action!
 
GreenWeeny78 said:
Looks like $#!T :flipoff2:

Its the gimp!

Better than that BBQ burning junk you drag around!

Ok folks hijack my own thread. LT recently converted his truck to propane. A few weeks ago he had the hood up trying to set the carb in front of the shop. Well I could not resist and why he was by the steering wheel I lit up a blast of starting fluid across his bow from the engine bay. Needless to say ol' LT came hopping around the drivers door darn quick! As an added bonus my bay door security cam caught it so you can see a screen shot! It took me a good 20 min to stop laughing.
ltflames23uj.jpg


End hijack.

Mark
 
Gumby said:
I did all that weld filling and grinding and filling and painting stuff on my fenders too.

Next day I went wheeling and bent 'em all up again. :D

Ouch.

This is the main reason I am painting the truck myself! I know I will stuff a fender at some point. Just as long as I don’t bust that $200+ front head light! My truck might have some monster front bumper on it for CM! Nah I have an 80 bumper I started on three years ago I just need to add a few things to and I am good to go. I do have a ARB winch bumper standing by/in stock in case I run out of time!

Mark
 
cruiserdan said:
Do remember that the front diff mounting pattern is considerably different between the lock and non-lock axle housings.

First time I have swaped an e-locker for an ARB, so no did not think about this. How different? Like whole new stud pattern? Gulp.

Mark
 
Once paint is done then its time to pull both axels to change gears to 5.29’s and swap out the e-lockers for ARB’s and toss in a set of Long’s inners and outers. Tick tock.


Mark

Note: On top of the truck is a few new body parts from Toyota, hood, valence and a head light.[/QUOTE]


Mark, no concern with breaking in the gears properly before moab? My understanding was that for the first 500miles you want to baby the drive not going more than 20 min without letting the gears cool (change the fluid after that) . Just what I have heard and gathered. correct me if i'm wrong

Been thinking of cutting into the wheel wells to get more clearance, nice to see it done first, looks good.

Sam
 
PKP80 said:
Mark, no concern with breaking in the gears properly before moab? My understanding was that for the first 500miles you want to baby the drive not going more than 20 min without letting the gears cool (change the fluid after that) . Just what I have heard and gathered. correct me if i'm wrong

Been thinking of cutting into the wheel wells to get more clearance, nice to see it done first, looks good.

Sam

Yes it is good to brake in the new gears, but I figured slick rock would be as good as any place! My plan for changing dif lube is the same as Woody, change the fluid each time you pull it apart to pick metal shards out of the housing. No just kidding, good point I should plan on swapping the lube mid week in camp. Right now all brain power is focused on the monster list of what has to get done before CM! (And we are leaving early too!)

Woody is correct this truck will ride to and from the events. Shoot if I drove it those new Iroks would be slicks by the time I hit Moab. I will take in on local runs w/o the tow rig until I rack up a few tickets for…

Bead locks
Tires to wide
Bumper height
“exposed rear tires” (no mud flaps)
Pulling GreenWeenie’s dead FJ40
Excessive use of orange
Etc.

Sam, I will get more photos up once she is all back in one chunk. Be better view of the fenders then.

Mark
 
clarkrw3 said:
Sweet Can't wait to see the outcome. When are you getting on that roll cage??


I just wont have time to put on in before CM. Post CM one will go in, then I will offer one on the web site.

cruiserdan said:
I heard that he was going to bring the beta customer version to CM and let me put it in mine..............:flipoff2:

COOL I need someone to test it on Hells Gate!

Mark
 
Yes, different pattern and hole in the housing. The locker hole is somewhat pear-shaped and has 11 studs. The non lock is round and has, if memory serves, 10 studs. Of those studs only 7 are common to both diffs.
 
cruiserdan said:
Yes, different pattern and hole in the housing. The locker hole is somewhat pear-shaped and has 11 studs. The non lock is round and has, if memory serves, 10 studs. Of those studs only 7 are common to both diffs.


Not good! Ok looking for a non locked front axel housing right now. Anyone have one? (not under their truck!)

Mark
 
helocat said:
Not good! Ok looking for a non locked front axel housing right now. Anyone have one? (not under their truck!)

Mark


I sold my old one to lagwagon a year ago or so. I don't know if he still has it or not.
 

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