Cutting fenders and Paint for CM06 (2 Viewers)

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ginericfj80 said:
Boston,

That would be funny if Mark ended up with that housing. He sold me that parts rig. I sold you the housing. If it went back to Mark it would have done a lot of traveling without the other parts to make it go down the road.
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That 94' parts rig was locked. This housing must be the one from under your non locked truck. (before it became locked with the 94' parts!)

Mark


elmariachi said:
You'll love the color, especially when you park at Hooters. This was "The Great Pumpkin" in that color. I sure miss it.

passfront1.jpg
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NICE! Jim great photo, nice looking truck. I took home paint samples (part of the masking) tonight for my boys to see, they are supper stoked at the color. My wife stated she will wait to see the finished truck.

Mark
 
hey mark

check your email!

housing on the way! :flipoff2:

you are in luck, the fedex/kinkos near my house was open on easter sunday

tracking # in your email!
 
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How much lift is on it ?

Is that Js or Heavies ?

Are you running spacers ?
 
I just like it when he say Beaver!:)
 
Boston/Helocat,

Duh! Actually the axle I sent Boston was off my 80. Hence unlocked. The one Mark sold me is under my rig.

Eric V.
 
No progress on my 80. I have been focusing on staying up with orders and finishing touches on MT projects. Monster challenges when you are a small shop!

Skim said:
How much lift is on it ?

Is that Js or Heavies ?

Are you running spacers ?
Click to expand...

NEWPIG is sporting an off the shelf J’ lift F&R. I am running 2” drop spacers in the front to level and get the true lift. Shocks are also off the shelf Old Man just for this coming event. There is no correction for caster or pan-hard bar pull for now. This is a non issue since the truck will spend distance travel on a trailer. When I get back from CM the front axle is getting linked using my Hyper-joints I started testing this last year.
attachment.php


Here is a thread by Rascal were he 4 linked his 40 with a set of the proto’s. https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=51130&page=9&highlight=hyperjoint

The key thing with these is you get the shock absorption with the almost 3” rubber bushing, yet it can freely rotate on the threaded shaft. The main body that welds onto the control rod has a zirk to grease the threads directly and an engineered lip seal to keep the junk out (No offence Junk!). The concept has been around for awhile. My thought all along for these is for under the 80.

We now have 4 test trucks running these all are large V8 built FJ40’s (38” to 40” tires), no issues. I will do a three link in the front with the panhard bar and 12” coilovers. The rear will just get re-linked and a set of long travel shocks. I hope to move the rear axle back a few inches to be able to cut into the body more for stuffing the tires better. I would love to do it before CM but just don’t have the time. (Wondering if I will get even what is started done!) I will use Rubithon as the dead line for the front re-linking. I am loosing travel by not being able to put a longer shock on up front. The brake master cyl. Is in the way to extend the shock height under the hood, unless I pull the ABS system, and I am not ready to do that.

Mark


BTW: For those of you outside of Oregon, that’s the OSU Beavers vs. U of O Ducks.
 
ats4x4dotcom said:
move the bottom mounts down a bit, if that gives you enough extra travel, as well as the top upward?
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Lowering the mount would require increasing the lift in order to clear the larger shock body. My goal with the suspension is for maximum droop at the same time keep the CG as low as I can. This is why I opt to cut the sheet metal for more clearance vrs. more spring lift or (shudder) a body lift. For up travel I want the maximum I can allow it, this dictates the collapsed length of shock. (Long travel shock = longer collapsed length) Usually you fit the largest collapsed length of shock you can, typically this will yield the longest travel shock you can run in your application.

Keeping the ride height of the truck as is now, yet increasing the droop would require moving the shock body upward for more travel downward. This is not much of an issue with the J’s but the new links will allow more travel.


Mark
 
May I please see a picture of an orange 80 series now?;)
 
Agree with all of that, thats our cause as well, what you have mentioned, but a longer shock open, means a longer shock closed, so moving the bottom mount down technically has the same effect as moving the top mount up ;)

Heres a pic of todays project, giving ver 4' of flex, and road manners, with 38 x 15.5 20 tyres on 20x10 rims, with no bodylift, to keep it driving nice also, first test drive today on a similar vehicle.






helocat said:
Lowering the mount would require increasing the lift in order to clear the larger shock body. My goal with the suspension is for maximum droop at the same time keep the CG as low as I can. This is why I opt to cut the sheet metal for more clearance vrs. more spring lift or (shudder) a body lift. For up travel I want the maximum I can allow it, this dictates the collapsed length of shock. (Long travel shock = longer collapsed length) Usually you fit the largest collapsed length of shock you can, typically this will yield the longest travel shock you can run in your application.

Keeping the ride height of the truck as is now, yet increasing the droop would require moving the shock body upward for more travel downward. This is not much of an issue with the J’s but the new links will allow more travel.


Mark
Click to expand...
 
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Finally, a cool-colored 80 in the US (I should say *another*, after Christo's)! I've been waiting to see this for a long time, there's really only so much hardcore than you can be when your rig's color says "Pearlescent Mica"! :flipoff2:

Glad to have helped in some way, however small. Now let's see some pics of the big bitch!

I'll miss seeing it in action in Moab (doomed never to attend again...thank you, Mike D!), so please post up some pics!
 
Quick update: Just way too busy with customer orders (a good thing) to work on my own truck. Cascade Cruisers meeting tomorrow night as VP I have to open the meeting so unless I can sneak it in mid day it will wait. I am going to try to lay the main paint this Sat. Photos to come!


Exiled said:
Finally, a cool-colored 80 in the US (I should say *another*, after Christo's)! I've been waiting to see this for a long time, there's really only so much hardcore than you can be when your rig's color says "Pearlescent Mica"! :flipoff2:

Glad to have helped in some way, however small. Now let's see some pics of the big bitch!

I'll miss seeing it in action in Moab (doomed never to attend again...thank you, Mike D!), so please post up some pics!
Click to expand...

Henry thanks agian for sheding the light on this color! Yes you helped alot along with Chris H.


ats4x4dotcom said:
Agree with all of that, thats our cause as well, what you have mentioned, but a longer shock open, means a longer shock closed, so moving the bottom mount down technically has the same effect as moving the top mount up ;)
Click to expand...

I misread you original post on moving the lower shock mount. For some reason I read move the shock mount down, and thought you meant the top mount. Gotacha. Yes moving the lower mount down would be some gain, but not enough for what I am looking for. It will be simpler to remove the sock coil mounts, put a shock hoop off the frame up into the engine bay. Then run 2” coil over shocks off the hoops down the axle. Tight clean set up with monster travel, but a real low stance. So goes the plan, I will do this set up and see how it works!

Mark
 
you have any pics of your fully painted cruiser yet?
 
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