Builds cuttin up the lx (1 Viewer)

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I think it might go without saying, but I'm going to say it anyway, I wouldn't trust that tire for safety. If it is a set just for off-roading, fine, but it definitely isn't safe for the highway. The cords in the sidewall were cut. There is no repair for that. The sidewall cords are actually what provides the support for the vehicle. Keep an eye on it, when you notice a bubble, you know for sure its kaput. Please keep safety in mind since it could effect other people on the road as well.

Vulcanization is the process that is used to make the tire. Natural and synthetic rubbers are mixed with carbon black(for color) and sulfur. The rubber compound is formed into rolls. Sheets cut from different rolls of different compounds are laid up in a tire mold and heated in an oven. During the vulcanization process, the mixed rubber compound in the mold is heated to ~350F and the sulfur "cross-links" the molecules and forms a strong bond. Imagine the rubber molecules(which are long polymer chains) are like cooked spaghetti. Without the cross-links, the molecules can slide around and don't necessarily keep any real shape. Adding sulfur to the rubber is like adding cheese to the mix. You bake it and when it cools off, you can't really separate the two. This is why tires can't be ground up and recycled into new rubber. They can be mixed with new rubber to form other things, but the chunks will always retain their shape.

Vulcanizing a patch will not repair the tire cords. It really isn't bonded to the rest of the tire except for the glue holding the patch in place. This type of patch is usually only used in heavy equipment and farm implement tires where there is a lot more strength in the sidewall due to the sheer thickness of the rubber there. These types of tires have completely different construction compared to road tires.
this thing doesnt ever see the road so im not too worried about it
 
edited my post about the plug welds in the drive shaft, forgot the 6 holes on the short half so 20 all together.

also, threw together a quick fix for my metaltech bumper. the plate that the winch mounts to was bending with hard pulls and finally broke the mounting feet off my winch...anyone else ever had that happen? i just bolted some 1/4" angle on the back and bolted the winch through it, seems to be working just fine so far.
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also, got fed up with my braking situation and got some fresh eyes to look it over (mechanic friend). we unhooked the vacuum hose coming off the intake going to the booster and it had no effect on the idle. we unscrewed the port that the hose clamps on and the motor almost died so we looked it over and it was basically blocked off inside. took a drill to it and drilled the inside out as big as we could and the brakes are 100% better. thinking about trying to get more vacuum to it to see if it improves any more but may have to look at other booster options.

My brakes aren't great either... this port was where the brake booster attached to the intake manifold?
 
yes, the one on the intake manifold. i just threaded it out and drilled the inside out as big as i could. (cant remember the size drill bit i used) i also recently figured out that my booster was leaking when the pushrod was extended so i am getting ready to replace that as well.
 
That should help the cause.
 
Sadly no. It's just not cost effective.
 
Vulcanization is when Spock makes people faint by touching their neck. Are you sure you know what this word means?

Zona
 
What about conduit? There's a guy on Pirate that sleeved his shaft with conduit from Home Depot. Pricing 2.5x.250 wall DOM it's not cheap. Cost as much as a new used shaft.

Nevermind looks like I can't 2 1/2 conduit.
 
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Yup sadly that is the same price I had been quoted for a 2 foot stick. Too much for this mod. I'm looking at schedule 80 pipe. A lot cheaper.
 
^ Awesome! Thanks man! Your a life saver! Ordered! I just hope mine will come out as good as yours did.
 
no prob. it'll turn out fine, its really pretty easy. one tip, dont do like i did and cut the driveshaft off center. cut the factory tube as close to the center as possible because it will make it easier to make the driveshaft straight. i cut mine toward the top thinking it would help keep the welds from grabbing rocks but it made it harder to make the shorter end straight with the rest of the tube.
 

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