Builds cuttin up the lx (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter wv_lx450
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #242
i dont know much about the vulcanizing process but its got a big patch basically melted in on the inside and it looks like they "melted" new rubber in and around the cut. the guy at the tire shop said they put the whole tire in a something like a kiln and i guess it blends all the repairs in. i guess i need to look up some about the process just to see. it was only $50, they shipped it somewhere in PA.
I have only heard good things about vulcanizing... I know a couple people who are running a tire that has been vulcanized and have not had any issues...
- Thread starter
- #244
thats good to hear. ive only seen one other vulcanized tire that a guy i wheel with had.
That tire looks awesome! It had quite the gash in there before.
- Thread starter
- #247
it does. really makes me feel a lil more comfortable about bashing the sidewalls now lol. i think that one got cut because i didnt have enough air in it. i usually run about 8-9psi but i didnt check em before that trip and i think they had leaked off a little bit.
- Thread starter
- #249
it definitely could have been that low. i think i really need to be in 10psi area to keep them from being able to be folded over and pinched. i think that would have saved this tire in the situation that punctured it
- Thread starter
- #250
after i totalled my rear drive shaft at the cove, i finally got around to remedying that problem. i did a lot of searching here and on pirate didnt find much about our rear shafts so i figured i would post what i came up with. i found a thread on pirate where a guy cut his toyota shaft in half and put some sched 40 in it and it fit really well. i cut my "new" one in half and measured it and its almost exactly 2.5" ID so bought some 2.5"x 1/4" wall DOM and it fits perfectly. there is basically no play at all. now i just have to drill some holes for plug welds and weld up the cuts and i should have a pretty strong setup.
- Thread starter
- #252
i ended up with about a 24" piece but i made my drive shaft about 2" longer than stock where i moved the rear back a lil bit during the swap. i have been running a drive shaft spacer until now. i cut the drive shaft in half then measured to the flange that's pressed inside the drive shaft tube on both ends. the new tube had to be a little shorter than those measurements because it wont fit all the way flush with the flange where the factory tube shrinks a little at the ends. i ground the ends of the new tube down a very small amount to get them to go in as far as possible.
Wow!! I called everywhere in New England to get a tire vulcanized and nobody would touch a DOT tire. That tire looks great. I was going throw away a brand new 37 BFG Krawler because of a hole in sidewall. The hole was right through. Was your puncture all the way also? Thnx
- Thread starter
- #254
yep, mine was all the way through. had to break the bead lock down and put a tube in it to get out of the woods. this place didnt ask anything about using the tire on the road so im not sure if they just assumed it was offroad only or what.
- Thread starter
- #255
got it all welder'd up. just need to throw some paint on it and it should be good to go.
also, got fed up with my braking situation and got some fresh eyes to look it over (mechanic friend). we unhooked the vacuum hose coming off the intake going to the booster and it had no effect on the idle. we unscrewed the port that the hose clamps on and the motor almost died so we looked it over and it was basically blocked off inside. took a drill to it and drilled the inside out as big as we could and the brakes are 100% better. thinking about trying to get more vacuum to it to see if it improves any more but may have to look at other booster options.
also, got fed up with my braking situation and got some fresh eyes to look it over (mechanic friend). we unhooked the vacuum hose coming off the intake going to the booster and it had no effect on the idle. we unscrewed the port that the hose clamps on and the motor almost died so we looked it over and it was basically blocked off inside. took a drill to it and drilled the inside out as big as we could and the brakes are 100% better. thinking about trying to get more vacuum to it to see if it improves any more but may have to look at other booster options.
- Thread starter
- #257
no theres 20 holes plus the 2 full circle welds
Last edited:
I think it might go without saying, but I'm going to say it anyway, I wouldn't trust that tire for safety. If it is a set just for off-roading, fine, but it definitely isn't safe for the highway. The cords in the sidewall were cut. There is no repair for that. The sidewall cords are actually what provides the support for the vehicle. Keep an eye on it, when you notice a bubble, you know for sure its kaput. Please keep safety in mind since it could effect other people on the road as well.
Vulcanization is the process that is used to make the tire. Natural and synthetic rubbers are mixed with carbon black(for color) and sulfur. The rubber compound is formed into rolls. Sheets cut from different rolls of different compounds are laid up in a tire mold and heated in an oven. During the vulcanization process, the mixed rubber compund in the mold is heated to ~350F and the sulfur "cross-links" the molecules and forms a strong bond. Imagine the rubber molecules(which are long polymer chains) are like cooked spaghetti. Without the cross-links, the molecules can slide around and dont necessarily keep any real shape. Adding sulfur to the rubber is like adding cheese to the mix. You bake it and when it cools off, you can't really separate the two. This is why tires can't be ground up and recycled into new rubber. They can be mixed with new rubber to form other things, but the chunks will always retain their shape.
Vulcanizing a patch will not repair the tire cords. It really isn't bonded to the rest of the tire except for the glue holding the patch in place. This type of patch is usually only used in heavy equipment and farm implement tires where there is a lot more strength in the sidewall due to the sheer thickness of the rubber there. These types of tires have completely different construction compared to road tires.
Vulcanization is the process that is used to make the tire. Natural and synthetic rubbers are mixed with carbon black(for color) and sulfur. The rubber compound is formed into rolls. Sheets cut from different rolls of different compounds are laid up in a tire mold and heated in an oven. During the vulcanization process, the mixed rubber compund in the mold is heated to ~350F and the sulfur "cross-links" the molecules and forms a strong bond. Imagine the rubber molecules(which are long polymer chains) are like cooked spaghetti. Without the cross-links, the molecules can slide around and dont necessarily keep any real shape. Adding sulfur to the rubber is like adding cheese to the mix. You bake it and when it cools off, you can't really separate the two. This is why tires can't be ground up and recycled into new rubber. They can be mixed with new rubber to form other things, but the chunks will always retain their shape.
Vulcanizing a patch will not repair the tire cords. It really isn't bonded to the rest of the tire except for the glue holding the patch in place. This type of patch is usually only used in heavy equipment and farm implement tires where there is a lot more strength in the sidewall due to the sheer thickness of the rubber there. These types of tires have completely different construction compared to road tires.
I think it might go without saying, but I'm going to say it anyway, I wouldn't trust that tire for safety. If it is a set just for off-roading, fine, but it definitely isn't safe for the highway. The cords in the sidewall were cut. There is no repair for that. The sidewall cords are actually what provides the support for the vehicle. Keep an eye on it, when you notice a bubble, you know for sure its kaput. Please keep safety in mind since it could effect other people on the road as well.
Vulcanization is the process that is used to make the tire. Natural and synthetic rubbers are mixed with carbon black(for color) and sulfur. The rubber compound is formed into rolls. Sheets cut from different rolls of different compounds are laid up in a tire mold and heated in an oven. During the vulcanization process, the mixed rubber compound in the mold is heated to ~350F and the sulfur "cross-links" the molecules and forms a strong bond. Imagine the rubber molecules(which are long polymer chains) are like cooked spaghetti. Without the cross-links, the molecules can slide around and don't necessarily keep any real shape. Adding sulfur to the rubber is like adding cheese to the mix. You bake it and when it cools off, you can't really separate the two. This is why tires can't be ground up and recycled into new rubber. They can be mixed with new rubber to form other things, but the chunks will always retain their shape.
Vulcanizing a patch will not repair the tire cords. It really isn't bonded to the rest of the tire except for the glue holding the patch in place. This type of patch is usually only used in heavy equipment and farm implement tires where there is a lot more strength in the sidewall due to the sheer thickness of the rubber there. These types of tires have completely different construction compared to road tires.
Vulcanization is the process that is used to make the tire. Natural and synthetic rubbers are mixed with carbon black(for color) and sulfur. The rubber compound is formed into rolls. Sheets cut from different rolls of different compounds are laid up in a tire mold and heated in an oven. During the vulcanization process, the mixed rubber compound in the mold is heated to ~350F and the sulfur "cross-links" the molecules and forms a strong bond. Imagine the rubber molecules(which are long polymer chains) are like cooked spaghetti. Without the cross-links, the molecules can slide around and don't necessarily keep any real shape. Adding sulfur to the rubber is like adding cheese to the mix. You bake it and when it cools off, you can't really separate the two. This is why tires can't be ground up and recycled into new rubber. They can be mixed with new rubber to form other things, but the chunks will always retain their shape.
Vulcanizing a patch will not repair the tire cords. It really isn't bonded to the rest of the tire except for the glue holding the patch in place. This type of patch is usually only used in heavy equipment and farm implement tires where there is a lot more strength in the sidewall due to the sheer thickness of the rubber there. These types of tires have completely different construction compared to road tires.
I'm really diggin that air system. Might have to pull the trigger on that one.
