Builds cuttin up the lx (1 Viewer)

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got it mostly done. put some crappy plexiglass over the back to try to keep some of the mud off the rear seat passengers. dont know how long it will last but it will work for now.
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here's my super sweet gas filler relocation and mount lol.

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What about padding for safety? I only see one padding.
 
i just padded the bars directly behind the front seats because those new seats dont have as high of a head rest as the factory seats. those are the only bars that someones head could come close to in a rollover. i may put a lil padding on the B pillar but it is very unlikely that someone's head would ever reach that far. i keep the rear headrests up if someone taller is in the back seat
 
anyone seen their climate control system do this? i cant turn it off, adjust the speed or temp, and its going back and forth between recirc and fresh and i cant control that. its only blowing heat and the only part that is functioning is the control for where the air blows out. all these buttons stay lit up no matter what. any ideas?
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ok, so today i can push all the fan speed buttons and they light up but the fan isnt running. i can push the buttons to select where the air comes out and can hear it moving in the dash. the a/c, auto, and recirc/fresh buttons wont light up or do anything. i took the amplifier out behind the glove box and it looks clean and dry, good chance its the lil a/c computer on the driver side??
 
That's crazy. I hate electric gremlins. Could it be a blown fuse?
 
me too. i checked fuses and all are good. i hosed my truck down before this messed up so im hoping i didnt get any water in there. im very careful about not spraying water on or near the dash but its possible i guess. im gonna check the relays and try to get to that amplifier tonight.
 
got the amplifier box unbolted and decided to try everything again before i unplugged it and everything was back working properly except the low fan setting and the next one up from it were the same speed. then i slid the temp setting all the way to high and everything screwed up again. does that make it seem more like the amplifier/control box or something else??
 
I have a used amplifier I bought and never used. I did confirm it worked. Pm if interested. Killer thread. Love that beast of an 80!
 
took mine out and had water standing in it. it was nice clean water and nothing was rusted or corroded yet. blew it all off with compressed air and plugged it back in and its working. turned the heat up and down and pushed all the buttons and so far so good. anyone think theres a reason to not silicone or seal it up somehow? or just drill a hole in the bottom to let the water out?

heres the water that came out
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connections still look pretty good where the water was
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That's bad!!!!!!!!!!!! Seal that sucker up!!
 
thats what i was thinking but others were concerned it may trap moisture and cause problems so i dont know. toyota didnt even attempt to close the top of it off and the bottom is completely sealed. it would completely fill up before water ran out. im going to try to seal all the way around the dash where it meets the cowl and A pillars. there are huge gaps in the corners that are big enough for decent sized rocks and mud to end up on top of some of the wiring harnesses under the dash.
 
toyota didnt even attempt to close the top of it off and the bottom is completely sealed

I'm fairly certain Toyota was counting on there being a windshield, gasket, door frames and a roof when they designed the truck though :lol:
 
Oh, im sure they never planned ahead for these types of modifications lol. i was just kinda surprised that the top of the box isnt even somewhat closed off. it wouldnt even keep dirt and dust out really. def not blaming mr. t tho. im gonna do something to sort of seal the edge of the dash where the windshield used to meet it and see if that takes care of it.
 
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started another little project.
since i did my axle swap, the drag link has been a lil on the short side (i unknowingly had the wrong chevy drag link end on passenger side and its 4" shorter than the correct one) and i set the axle up slightly to the driver side to make up for it. it was worn out so i swapped it out for the correct one (part #es2027 i believe) which made the drag link too long and i couldnt shorten it enough.

im in the process of cutting and sleeving the panhard bar but gave up tonight because i cant get the driver side panhard bolt loose. had these wrenches on it but cant budge the nut and the impact was no use. gonna try to heat it up tomorrow unless someone has a better idea.
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1.75", .25" wall dom sleeve
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moved the axle about an 1 1/8" to the pass side
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If you can find it try Knock'er Loose. Stuff is amazing.
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ok, so apparently im an idiot lol. shoulda read up on the removal process first. in trying to avoid the steering linkages and hydro hoses in front of the panhard bolt, i was trying to remove the nut instead of the bolt. once i gave up on that, i worked a wrench onto the head of the bolt and was able to turn the bolt finally. this is why the nut wont turn....
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That'll do it. lol

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If you can find it try Knock'er Loose. Stuff is amazing.
3EED4_AS01

Also, if you have this problem in the future, try 50% acetone/50% ATF, it works better than any pb blaster or commercial rust buster you can buy and you can mix it yourself cheap, but it will eat a plastic spray bottle, so you have to get creative with the application...

Love the LX by the way, you were what inspired me to cut my cruiser apart a few years back, and that's what made me get another for DD use ;)
 

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