Custom SS exhaust for the 80 series (1 Viewer)

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another issue could be the mounting points for the exhaust. if they are hard points without insulators and dont allow any flex in the exhaust cracks and damage can occur due to expansion when the exhaust heats up as well as when the truck flexes off road. hard mount points will put stress on the weakest points and cracks will develop.


It uses the stock Toyota isolator cushions and stock frame mounts so it should move the same as the factory setup. The rear most mount on RFB's is in a different spot since his rear bumper covers the rear most stock mount.
 
It uses the stock Toyota isolator cushions and stock frame mounts so it should move the same as the factory setup. The rear most mount on RFB's is in a different spot since his rear bumper covers the rear most stock mount.


it may still get some flex and twisting but using the stock mounts should solve most of those issues. could just be rust and crust from salt and calcium chloride eating at the exhaust, not much that can be dome to fix that
 
pd 2000.00 drove 600 miles to have it installed in under 2yrs have had 11 separate issues, SS pipe shattering like glass (in Ouray) blown out header gasket 2 months after install. all gaskets smoked. now this. Anyone know of a exhaust guy, that will make it for real?? trucks sounds like S*&^ AGAIN over 800 in on the road repairs. Already had welders and exhaust guys look at it, and explain its the wrong thickness SS View attachment 2194377View attachment 2194378View attachment 2194379

Jeezuss, that's stainless? Glad roads don't get salted where I live.

How can you say the pipe is the wrong thickness?
Pipe looks intact, welds looks intact.
It's the metal on muffler that has failed.

Looks like it's fatigued and cracked beside the weld.
I don't know enough about metallurgy and welding to criticise the welds. Looking at the pics, I'd put it down to the metal the muffler is made from, or there's an issue with the way the exhaust is supported.
I don't think the amount the pipe is inserted into the muffler is an issue.

I made a mild steel exhaust for a diesel and one of my hangers was poorly designed by me. It tore a hole in the pipe within a couple of weeks. A rethink on the hanger design fixed it.
I've built a few exhaust systems over the years with mandrel bends and made with all butt welds, and after years of use and off-road use, no welds cracked due to a lack of socketed joints
 
I live in Nova Scotia, it is surrounded by the ocean pretty much on all sides except a narrow strip of land. To say it is a corrosive environment is an understatement. I have experienced aluminised exhaust and SS exhaust. Due to the salt air, road salt, calcium chloride road wet downs and the sand-blasting that occurs from the sand they use on some roads it's pretty harsh on exhaust systems.

My experience with SS is it is NOT a "the last exhaust I will ever buy". It typically only lasts 3-5 more years than a good quality exhaust installed by a quality shop. The cost(typically more than twice), for me, is not justified. On a side note, most shops also do not perform SS work and the ones that do charge a premium.

Now I am sure it is different in the warmer environments where they do not see road salt or a limited amount of road salt. I will never spend the twice as much on a SS system again, if it is to see winter operation in my environment.

I envy all you guys that live in a salt free(or mostly) environment. As a car guy it is a constant battle to keep the rust at bay. The 80 I bought in Cali is a dream to look at underneath:clap:
 
I’ll just go out on a limb and say this guy complains about anything he can..... mostly about the things he installs himself 🤷🏽‍♂️
 
🐸🐸🐸

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Buy a kit from Magnaflow and build it yourself!


You already know you can get the front downpipe and cats from them.
 
Buy a kit from Magnaflow and build it yourself!


You already know you can get the front downpipe and cats from them.

Turning wrenches is extremely laborious to some people.
 
Wrong type of stainless. It appears that the tubing is 300 series and the muffler is possibly something different. This can happen when shops are lied to by the people selling the mufflers. Watched it first hand when a shop outsourced their exhausts and the first couple batches were good, but then the overseas production started using cheap s*** products without approval.

If you want a truly lifetime exhaust have a shop build it out of 300 series, 304 or even better 316 and use a name brand muffler also made from 300 series.
A few years ago I bought a Magnaflow muffler for something I had in mind. Because I was aware that there can be cembrittlement problems with certain types of SS and incompatible weld fill wire, I called magnaflow Customer service to ask what type of SS alloy they use for the muffler shell. The best answer I could get out of them was "400 series" I think they tend to use that because it's much less expensive than the superior 304/316, while still allowing marketing to claim SS.

The only way to solve this business is to not depend on possible brittle welds to hold up to long term thermal stress cycling in a high physical stress setting. The bracketing must be well designed with stress releaf in mind.
 
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A few years ago I bought a Magnaflow muffler for something I had in mind. Because I was aware that there can be cembrittlement problems with certain types of SS and incompatible weld fill wire, I called magnaflow Customer service to ask what type of SS alloy they use for the muffler shell. The best answer I could get out of them was "400 series" I think they tend to use that because it's much less expensive than the superior 304/316, while still allowing marketing to claim SS.

The only way to solve this business is to not depend on possible brittle welds to hold up to long term thermal stress cycling in a high physical stress setting. The bracketing must be well designed with stress releaf in mind.
I had done some of this research a few years ago.

See below as a screenshot of Magnaflow's website.

It states 409 SS.

I confirmed with my local Senior CWI that happens to be a very good friend, that 308 or 309 would be the proper weld wire for any of these welds, whether it's 409, 304, or 316 stainless. Even with the heat cycling.

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