Custom HZJ79 from parts, built in the US! (3 Viewers)

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good for you, very practical build.

bedliner ...
i don't recommend it. if you do go that route MAKE SURE you have a good coat of paint properly bonded to the steel before applying the stuff.

it will be fun to watch the build.

it's a brand new factory body
 
The FJ62 frame should be able to handle the same amount of cargo weight as the 79 series frame. I will be reinforcing my rear frame and using either 75 or 79 series OME rear springs and OME springs in the front. Not sure on the difference in length between the 75 and 79 series leaf springs.

Yeah I meant the springs, not the frame, forgot you were using those.

Using 75 or 79 springs you'll have the same load carrying capacity of course. :cool:

I think they are different length. Grease Cruiser knows.
 
they are different length and the rating will be determined by which mine and which application they were destined for...
 
Yooper,

Mind if I ask if you had to or will have to overcome any titling issues using a mine truck frame?

I'd think the mine truck might be a 75 from Canada that isn't 25 years old but of course I have no idea what you got your hands on. How does it work in your state? (I'm not trying to be a prick, I actually want to know)

Thanks

Don't mind at all, this is an important detail.

I am relying on Proffitt's experience with this and I expect the truck to be delivered to me with a Colorado title (or certificate of manufacture? Not sure). I believe it gets titled as a new handbuilt vehicle and is issued a new VIN by the state. Transferring title to Michigan is trivial at that point.

I refer you to the shop for further questions about the details. :cheers:
 
I was driving home and wondering the same thing about the title issue. That is why I am using a 1988 FJ62 as the frame and drive train donor on my build.
 
The rear protection issue is a major concern for me as well as the stock 79 series tail lights don't come cheap, never mind the cost of body work . Yes, the lights and their surrounding sheet metal do hang low, so, I wonder if a slight, 1" or 2" maybe, body lift would allow more clearance. Or duplicate the factory bumper just make it tighter to the frame and maybe with smaller tubing?

Picture of factory rear bumper.
DSCF1168.jpg
 
Whats' the big gap in the factory bumper on the right for? License plate?

Yeah something of that general shape but made strong would be okay, with a receiver somehow incorporated...

I like the 1" body lift idea. We'll be putting in new body mount bushings anyway, it isn't any more work to use thicker ones...
 
Sean, quality project you've got going. Very cool.

I'll jump in on the rear bumper brainstorming. I ran tube style quarter protection for a few seasons. The lines never jived with the rest of the truck, even though the tubes were the same as my sliders.

My final solution was inspired by the 80 sereies bumpers that wrap around and protect the quarters. Fairly simple bend off of a cardboard template and welded up. I'm pleased with lines.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/273127-modified-kaymar.html

If my truck spent time on salty roads I'd be concerned about salt traping in between the body and the frame of my design.
 
Sean, quality project you've got going. Very cool.

I'll jump in on the rear bumper brainstorming. I ran tube style quarter protection for a few seasons. The lines never jived with the rest of the truck, even though the tubes were the same as my sliders.

My final solution was inspired by the 80 sereies bumpers that wrap around and protect the quarters. Fairly simple bend off of a cardboard template and welded up. I'm pleased with lines.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/273127-modified-kaymar.html

If my truck spent time on salty roads I'd be concerned about salt traping in between the body and the frame of my design.

Looks great but yeah, looks rust inducing. You don't get mud stuck in there?
 
Looks great but yeah, looks rust inducing. You don't get mud stuck in there?

My junk doesn't see mud very often. Maybe once a year. It weighs 5500lbs, so when it sees mud it sees the bottom. If/when I do get it muddy I just wash it off.

Does snow pack into tight spaces and stay all season or does it get washed out periodically?
 
My junk doesn't see mud very often. Maybe once a year. It weighs 5500lbs, so when it sees mud it sees the bottom. If/when I do get it muddy I just wash it off.

Does snow pack into tight spaces and stay all season or does it get washed out periodically?

That tight space would probably fill up with ice. I park indoors so it melts every night but it wouldn't take too mud and rocks getting stuck in there in the summer to abrade the paint and get the rust monster started.

On the pickup I like the quarter panel protection that John used on his. I think those might already be welded on by now too. :)

quarterprotection1.jpg


sideview.jpg
 
The time has come to choose a turbocharger. Proffitt's has the most experience with Turbo Glide, another option is AXT, or what I'm leaning toward, using a Toyota turbo and a 1HDT manifold...
 
no advantage to the factory turbo and manifold...
basicly a turbo is a turbo unless it is mapped to your specific driving style and use.
i have installed the AXT, it is okay.
i have not used the turboglide but i have had a couple buddies that have and they like the kit.
 
I dig the denco kits..... Dame I want one of these. If only they were an extended cab. It would be the perfect cruiser for me.
 
OK, did a bunch of reading and got advice, turbo decision made, going with Turbo Glide. :cool:
 
How much are the aftermarket manifolds the tojos 1 hd ones with gaskits and snot from memory around 380
 

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