Current mileage 200 series 5.7L

[rscoleman]

Sounds like you take good care of it! Why the oil change? Also did you notice a difference with the trans fluid? Did you drain the pan and refill or do a flush?

Oil change to 5w30 was due to towing and heat here in Texas. Just not comfortable with 0w20 looks like water. Also it is an economy of scale thing the other two automobiles take 5w30 so I only have to buy the one type of oil for changes. I still like to change my own oil and rotate my tires.
The trans fluid replace was also due to towing. So for month or so I was on pins and needle with trans fluid replace. I had dealer do this work and it was total fluid replace however they chose to do it. I would have to look at paper work to see what option they picked. Overall I would say truck seems to shift better after fluid replace. My driving style is pretty laid back from stop light to stop light. What I do however do a lot of is hwy mile at 80+. With and without boat in tow. I tow in 6th per manual. I average about 16.5 mpg for most all my daily normal and road trip driving. I get about 11 pulling the boat.
I plan to do the diffs and transfer case again at 125k that will be 50K on those fluids as opposed to 75k I did on factory install. I will do coolant and transmission again at 150k. I also plan on radiator, water pump, etc... at that 150k.

 

[sedole]

I was having this but noticing residue on the overflow bottle. Eventually found the cap was missing the gasket. New cap with gasket and no longer losing coolant.

That's a good tip, I'll have to check that. Once in a while I notice a little residue on the overflow.

 

[gasman4u]

That's a good tip, I'll have to check that. Once in a while I notice a little residue on the overflow.

I think mine came from the factory without a gasket. Weird, I know. But I noticed and got a replacement that has it now.

 

[kg22]

Oil change to 5w30 was due to towing and heat here in Texas. Just not comfortable with 0w20 looks like water. Also it is an economy of scale thing the other two automobiles take 5w30 so I only have to buy the one type of oil for changes. I still like to change my own oil and rotate my tires.
The trans fluid replace was also due to towing. So for month or so I was on pins and needle with trans fluid replace. I had dealer do this work and it was total fluid replace however they chose to do it. I would have to look at paper work to see what option they picked. Overall I would say truck seems to shift better after fluid replace. My driving style is pretty laid back from stop light to stop light. What I do however do a lot of is hwy mile at 80+. With and without boat in tow. I tow in 6th per manual. I average about 16.5 mpg for most all my daily normal and road trip driving. I get about 11 pulling the boat.
I plan to do the diffs and transfer case again at 125k that will be 50K on those fluids as opposed to 75k I did on factory install. I will do coolant and transmission again at 150k. I also plan on radiator, water pump, etc... at that 150k.

Makes sense. I’m in NC and it’s hot here also and I never had a vehicle with 0w-20 so it made me wonder. Especially it being a V8 I thought they all took higher weight oil. Guess that’s with the older trucks…I just bought a water pump, thermostat and serpentine belt to do and I’m at 125k. I have read that these radiators fail so it’s making me think I should go ahead and swap it while I am in there.

 

[linuxgod]

As a caveat, I do have two other 5.7 powered vehicles in the stable with well over 230k. One has been flawless, the other needed engine replacement at 130k. It spent its life on a weed farm upstate. I’m sure the least of their concerns was vehicle maintenance.

They probably kept forgetting it was due…

 

[jackiejay29]

Hello Everyone,

I am curious to know how many miles you have on your 5.7L. Also share any major repairs you have had to do and at what mileage.
Mine is a 2014 Land Cruiser with 125,500mi.

Recently purchased but no major repairs needed. I believe it has a cam tower leak driver side but minor. Only bad thing is trans fluid has never been drained & filled.

Mine is a 2008 with 307K on it. I have replaced struts, starter, clock spring, radiator and one solenoid in the 6 speed transmission. I now need to replace the heater hoses that are leaking at the Tees. I am also planning soon to replace the valley plate seal due to small coolant leak that I just found leaking down the bell housing to the bottom of when the engine and trans mate together. Other than those fairly typical things, and clear coat on hood and top being perished due to AZ sunshine, it has been a rock solid vehicle. Every vehicle has issues, but this one just keeps on ticking along, mile after mile. At 307K it still runs like a top and everything works, including the electrical. Not a spec of rust underneath is a blessing when working on it. No seized bolts or cancer anywhere. Gotta love old desert cruisers.

 

[jackiejay29]

Hello Everyone,

I am curious to know how many miles you have on your 5.7L. Also share any major repairs you have had to do and at what mileage.
Mine is a 2014 Land Cruiser with 125,500mi.

Recently purchased but no major repairs needed. I believe it has a cam tower leak driver side but minor. Only bad thing is trans fluid has never been drained & filled.

Mine land cruiser is a 2008 AZ most of its life, and has 307200 miles on the odo.

 

[kg22]

Mine is a 2008 with 307K on it. I have replaced struts, starter, clock spring, radiator and one solenoid in the 6 speed transmission. I now need to replace the heater hoses that are leaking at the Tees. I am also planning soon to replace the valley plate seal due to small coolant leak that I just found leaking down the bell housing to the bottom of when the engine and trans mate together. Other than those fairly typical things, and clear coat on hood and top being perished due to AZ sunshine, it has been a rock solid vehicle. Every vehicle has issues, but this one just keeps on ticking along, mile after mile. At 307K it still runs like a top and everything works, including the electrical. Not a spec of rust underneath is a blessing when working on it. No seized bolts or cancer anywhere. Gotta love old desert cruisers.

Now that’s what I like to hear! I bet you’ll make 500k no problem.

 

[jackiejay29]

Me too....me too.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

'08 with 240K

Radiator (PM'ed with new design) and all other things related to a change like this.
Starter
Valley Plate ( Also, there's a dude in my area that has a gasket that he makes for the valley plate. Added in addition to FIPG.)

Things that are not operating that I want to fix:
Coolbox blower
Sonar parking assist fault

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Oil change to 5w30 was due to towing and heat here in Texas. Just not comfortable with 0w20 looks like water. Also it is an economy of scale thing the other two automobiles take 5w30 so I only have to buy the one type of oil for changes.

Have you seen any issues with this conversion? I've seen the international specs for oil viscosity and trust the process.

My next oil change I'm going to start using 5-30. Im away a lot and every now and then after I start the engine after it's dormancy period I get chain slap on start up. Once pressure builds it goes away, about 3/4 of a second.

 

[Bighead]

2018 with 44k.

 

[Umbrarian]

39K on 2021 LC/HE.
78K on 2021 Sequoia.

 

[krice118]

2013 LX with 170k - AHC globes replaced, rear main seal, updated radiator as PM.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

2010 Tundra. 320k miles. Smooth as Day 1.

 

[open country]

Currently a 2016 Sequoia with 172K and a 2016 LC with 137k. Past a 2011 Tundra with 130k and 2011 LC with 219k.

Only "major" repair was a starter done by the PO on the 2011 LC. Never a sign of cam towers, valley plates, or failed radiator.

Of course now that I've said it out loud...

 

[jjtrou2072]

2013 LX - 200K Miles
* Replaced Radiator
* Currently suffering from a slow Valley Plate leak.
* Telescoping Steering Wheel No Longer Operable.

 

[xeuxaz]

2016 LC - 120k Miles (Everything listed was done proactively, recently)

• Replaced the Radiator with the latest design
• Replaced Starter (Total pain in the ass, but I didn't want to be stranded in the dirt)
• Replaced Water Pump and Fan Bracket
• Replaced Spark Plugs
• Replaced PCV

It has been dead reliable. 5W30 every 5k starting around 80k miles and typical fluid changes on time/early for everything else.

 

[NCMTNS]

2017 with ~182k; regular maintenance. No issues except for that crappy steering wheel leather. I bought a cover to sew over but may wait and just get whole new steering wheel...

 

[rscoleman]

Have you seen any issues with this conversion? I've seen the international specs for oil viscosity and trust the process.

My next oil change I'm going to start using 5-30. Im away a lot and every now and then after I start the engine after it's dormancy period I get chain slap on start up. Once pressure builds it goes away, about 3/4 of a second.

No issues for what is effectively 10k miles on 5w30. I did notice that oil pressure gauge reads tick higher on startup and for first few minutes of driving after that all seems normal. Note their is a whole rabbit hole of a thread on this topic.