Builds Cummins 6bt/nv4500 build (4 Viewers)

[Mr Cimarron]

I haven't, but I will need to in not too long. I blew a boost tube on the highway a few weeks ago that coated the PS of my engine bay (and hood) with oil and now my turbo makes a whining noise, like a supercharger, at higher boost levels.

I am tearing into the Garret on my Ford to clean the VGT vanes and I've got axial as well as raidal play, so a rebuild is in my near future I fear. In theory it's easy to tear apart, take the compressor wheel off, slide the shaft out, pull off the compressor and turbine housings, then the thrust bearing and you've got access both to the matrix oil seals as well as the bronze bushings that the shaft rides on.

I think your noise description is what i am hearing. It seems to go away once warm.

 

[maxamillion2345]

Check for axial play and radial play. Check comp wheel to see if itll contact housing.

Just rebuilt my HE351cw which is the same cartridge as an hx35. Plenty of videos on youtube for the hx35s.

I would buy a factory holset rebuild kit. Seemed hard to find though to be honest.

I used some super tacky assembly oil to go back in and when done ran a mix of it and eng oil through the feed while I spun the shaft with an impact to prime it. When I got it in back on the truck, I killed fuel and let the eng crank over for a bit before I let it fire.

You'll need good snap ring pliers, a deadblow, and a vise plus other standard tools. Hardest part might be getting exhaust housing off.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Check for axial play and radial play. Check comp wheel to see if itll contact housing.

As a rule of thumb, if the comp wheel will contact the housing (when testing for play) then it's time to rebuild?

 

[maxamillion2345]

Yep for sure. I had a little play but it wouldnt touch the housing when pushed but the exhaust side oil seal was leaking so rebuilt and with new bearings it took most of the play out. I mean bear in mind you'll have a film of oil to eat up some of the play as well once its running so... as long as it wont touch the comp housing you'll be okay. Once that happens you're looking at a new wheel at min. Other thing is no axial play or extremely minimal at least.

Also as for balance, you'll find varying schools of thought here but everything is component balanced so I had no concerns not having the whole assy rebalanced. I didn't mark the wheel location to the shaft, some do. Its not flying to the moon. Also the nut is left hand thread and I just snugged it up, it'll tighten itself when running.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Good info.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Amazon.com: Genuine Holset Cummins HY35 HX35 HX40 HE341 HE351 Turbo Rebuild Kit: Automotive

 

[maxamillion2345]

I looked at that but concluded with some of the reviews, in that I don't beleive its a true holset kit. Do what you will though. I had ordered one through DAP but canceled my order so cant verify for sure.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I looked at that but concluded with some of the reviews, in that I don't beleive its a true holset kit. Do what you will though. I had ordered one through DAP but canceled my order so cant verify for sure.

Yeah saw the reviews as well after I posted. I asked the seller if they are hostel or aftermarket.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I just ordered a kit to rebuild the Garret in my powerstroke. Thanks for the advice @maxamillion2345

@Mr Cimarron check this out. Our Holsets will be somewhat different, but similar enough. Lots of pics ahead.

Reconditioning a 6.0 Turbo! - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I guess I should look into rebuilding my Ford now too.

 

[maxamillion2345]

Good time to look into doing a billet compressor wheel maybe? although I did not...

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I ended up order the "Genuine Holset" kit form Amazon. If it looks suspect I will send it back. I will make the rebuild my afterwork project next week. @maxamillion2345 You say the exhaust housing will be the hard part. Did you take it off when cold or did you run the engine to get some heat going through it?

 

[maxamillion2345]

It was cold, you just gotta beat it off with a hammer. It made me cringe but got it off. I did spray a little pb at it but dont think it mattered. Used antisieze to go back together. You'll need baby snap ring pliers and some pretty big ones.

Idk I couldnt find bearings that looked like the ones that came out... you'll see the groove for the oil holes.

 

[maxamillion2345]

I was rebuilding an he351cw to swap in place of my h1c. Got the 351 on but still need to plumb charge air side and exhaust.

 

[mechanist]

I love this thread and have enjoyed spending the better part of last week reading through it. Thanks for taking the time to write it all up.

I know it's been about a year since grabbing the actuators and the magic dial. Nice find. I wonder if the 95+ locker computer and associated wiring harnesses are still on that truck - if that truck is even still out there.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I love this thread and have enjoyed spending the better part of last week reading through it. Thanks for taking the time to write it all up.

I know it's been about a year since grabbing the actuators and the magic dial. Nice find. I wonder if the 95+ locker computer and associated wiring harnesses are still on that truck - if that truck is even still out there.

Glad you enjoyed the read. I try to keep everything honest stating good and bad to hopefully help others.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I pulled turbo after work today to start rebuild later this week. Took about an hour with no manaifold bolts breaking. I sprayed them yesterday to soak. The wheel had slight play but not much. Could be a boost leak as well causing my noise and higher EGTs on inclines with lack of holding boost. The rebuild kit was cheap so it's good maintenance anyway. I didn't see any soot so I don't think it's from the exhaust side.

Plenty of room available with no turbo.

I love it when I can still read part info.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Silencer ring removed. Word on the street is it makes the turbo quieter so removing it should get me more turbo sound. I will give it a go without it to see. It's easy to put back if I don't like it. No performace gains without it.

I'm also adding a fuel pressure gauge and new adjustable overflow valve. With removing the well known leak point of the factory prefilter I decided to add a simple inline filter just to be safe.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Have you decided where you're going to tap the system for your fuel pressure gauge?

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Have you decided where you're going to tap the system for your fuel pressure gauge?

The little kit I got includes a new banjo bolt/snubber that replaces one of the banjo bolts on the filter housing. The gauge will live there. I don't see a need right now to run a gauge in the cab.