Cummins 4bt into my FJ60

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Everyone take a look at the head in the picture. On top of the head is a tube sticking up. Does anyone know what this is for? I looked through the manual for about an hour last night and I can't find anything about it. It is not in any pictures of the head and there is no mention of it.

Kanooter valve port?:D

Heater hose nipple maybe? I will look at mine when I get home from work and see if I can tell what might go there.
 
After looking at your older pictures and seeing things better, I think that is definitely a nipple for a heater hose. There are other holes in the same locations by the other exhaust ports blocked off by core plugs. :cheers:
 
Whoa...a kanooter valve port. Those are rare. last time I saw one of those is when my buddy took me Snipe hunting.
 
Whoa...a kanooter valve port. Those are rare. last time I saw one of those is when my buddy took me Snipe hunting.

Just make sure it gets the requisite amount of relative bearing grease, otherwise those kanooters may be ejected completely from said port and cause a catastrophic loss of blinker fluid...
 
for those of you with ADD, here is where I got to this weekend:
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Getting back to it, the first thing I had to do is assemble the pistons and connecting rods. The manual tells you to put the snap ring in on the "front" of the piston. Then, put the wrist pin in. that is a lot easier than I thought. I had to put the wrist pin up to the hole and rotate it gently until it slipped in. At this point I would wonder what I was doing wrong and be convinced the next one would be the essence of simplicity, only to have to go through the process all over again. On piston number 4 I had to take the ring out of the front of the piston and install the wrist pin that way. I may have sworn.
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Next, the rings. In these three pictures you can see the "oil" ring and that it is in fact two seperate rings. the spiral one goes on first and the solid one seats on top of it. In picture three, you can see that the spiral one has a seperation point around a solid piece of wire. The seperation is placed 180 degrees from the opening on the solid one over it when putting the rings on the piston.
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I put the piston on top of a vice (Not tight) to let the rod hang down to put the rings on. You can see the cheap tool I used and it was rather effective.
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This piece of junk, commonly known as the ring compressor, gets its very own post. For those of you who have never used one and watch how easy they are to use on the auto shows: DON'T BELIEVE IT!. This little baby needed two people to operate it. I'm not saying they were smart people, just that there were two people to make it work. When putting a ring compressor on, push the breaks in the rings into the groove of the piston, otherwise, they can move out of the grove when you are applying the compressor and stop the compressor from doing its job. Once I got the rings compressed properly, and not on the first try, I put it on the cylinder the piston was going into. Here's where it took two. My buddy had to hold the compressor to make sure it didn't wedge into the cylinter while I tapped the piston out. Oh, did I mention that I broke another ring while doing it myself? I may have sworn again. I put a piston in backward while I was swearing and had to do it again.
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Finally! We got the pistons in without breaking another ring. And Lubriplate. I just want to say: Wherever possible, I used my bosses Snap On torque wrench instead of my craftsman. That is what I used on the rod caps. I did pistons 1 and 4 together and 2 and 3 together. There is nothing like getting the rotating assembly in.
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After that I put in the cam which meant that I had to install the gear housing, which meant that I had to employ Boots' and Stevo's KDP solution. Thanks guys. Unfortunately, I forgot my photography duties and did not get pictures of the cam install. Here is a picture of it in.
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Next, we installed the head. You have to install the cam so you can install the push rods when installing the head. The head was pretty straight foreward. Followed the manual and did the torque sequence to the letter. After that, it was on to adjusting the valves. Also a fairly straight foreward proposition. It is much easier with two people and make sure you have the proper feeler guages on hand.
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Cheers brother! well done!! I dream of this for Betsy Ross!
On a side note, for someone who doesn't like painting stuff, you sure went all out on Tahoe valve covers!!!
 
At this point, I did some easy things like install the oil cooler. You can see the old gaskets. They were different from the new ones by quite a bit. In my kit, the gasket replacing that metal one in the picture wasn't even metal. It took some discussion between my buddy and I before I decided to go with the new ones. The Push Rod Cover was easy, although I could not find the installation procedure in the manual. So, I just torqued the bolts to 18 ft/lb, which is the proper torque for those bolts.
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Cheers brother! well done!! I dream of this for Betsy Ross!
On a side note, for someone who doesn't like painting stuff, you sure went all out on Tahoe valve covers!!!

I was just messing around with the valve covers. I don't even know if I like them like that.

All the painting is my buddy's influence. He builds PERFECT hot rods. If I don't do everything nice and pretty, I get that sideways look from him and the sound of dissapointment in his voice.

I have to paint the injection pump that came with this engine. Grrr...
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I read the first like 8 pages last night. Sweet. I might be getting my hands on a 4bt. Just waiting to see what kind. I know a lot more from this thread. Thanks. :)

Thanks Cody Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 

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