Cummins 4bt into my FJ60

[Wyoming]

Sunday, I went to Carquest with one of those brass fittings that you see on the oil filter relocation adapter to find some 3/4" hose which iIwas going to use with some hose clamps for the lines for the oil filter relocation. Wrong! Can't use hose clamps on a system that may broduce 110 lbs of preasure on start. So, two hours later after another trip back to the shop to get some parts I had some high dollar, high preasure hoses for the oil filter relocation. I know I took pictures of those, but they are not here either. I'll get them later.

I did pick up the pipe elbow I needed to plumb the upper radiator hose. It's not nearly as nice as Cullman's, but it will do.

 

[Wyoming]

To install the steering hose, I had to heat this bad boy with the torch and straighten it some. Then I had to build some steel braided hose for the line from the remote steering reservoir to the steering pump and mount the remote reservoir.

 

[Wyoming]

A shot of the hard line I bent for the turbo oil line. A shot of where I got to tonight and some of the tools used this weekend.

 

[The Phoenician]

It's coming along wonderfully. keep posting pictures.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I love it

 

[boots4]

... Will it hold? I need to get some t-bolt clamps.

Yes you will need t-bolt clamps for all of your pressurized intake connections. Pretty much every clamp from the turbo outlet to the manifold intake need to be t-bolt clamps. Worm clamps won't hold up over time with the vibration and pressure and keep a solid grip on those connections that you need to have. It's no fun chasing down boost leaks.

 

[Wyoming]

It's coming along wonderfully. keep posting pictures.

Thanks man! I'll post them as fast as I take them.

I love it

Thanks Johnny! Time for you to get going. I want some pictures of yours.

Yes you will need t-bolt clamps for all of your pressurized intake connections. Pretty much every clamp from the turbo outlet to the manifold intake need to be t-bolt clamps. Worm clamps won't hold up over time with the vibration and pressure and keep a solid grip on those connections that you need to have. It's no fun chasing down boost leaks.

I ordered a silicone hose kit off the internet and didn't use a magnifying glass to look at the clamps. I just assumed that they were t-bolts. It was a "what-the-hey?" moment for sure. One of the wonderful things about a little town in Wyoming, it takes days to get what you need.

-------------------------------

I talked to a guy at NAPA (One of the smart ones) and he assured me that I could have used hose clamps on those barbed fittings for the oil filter relocation. Grrr...

BTW, I pulled the starter off and ran a m10 x 1.5 tap into the holes. I guess the threads did just need a little cleaning up. Thanks again Rambler and Isbj60, you saved me a huge headache!

 

[cullmancruiser]

Your tube bending looks great on the turbo oil supply, but I don't think it will hold up for any length of time. These engines shake pretty hard, and an unsupported steel line like that will probably break before long and leave you with a wasted turbo, and possibly a locked engine if you don't catch it soon enough. I think you need to get an OEM braided steel line from Cummins to make sure that doesn't happen. A supply line for engine CPL 858 should work for you.

 

[Elbert]

I'm ready to see what its going to do...when do you plan to get it started/running?

looks like you are close.

 

[Wyoming]

Your tube bending looks great on the turbo oil supply, but I don't think it will hold up for any length of time. These engines shake pretty hard, and an unsupported steel line like that will probably break before long and leave you with a wasted turbo, and possibly a locked engine if you don't catch it soon enough. I think you need to get an OEM braided steel line from Cummins to make sure that doesn't happen. A supply line for engine CPL 858 should work for you.

You think? The two points that the hard line is connected to have zero flex between them. There should be no fatigue that way. Are you saying that just the vibration Of the engine is going to make the hard line fail? It's pretty solid, there is no - zero - wiggle in it. Please don't make me spend more money.

I'm ready to see what its going to do...when you do plan to get it started/running?

looks like you are close.

Cross your fingers and knock on wood. I hope to crank it over tonight. If I don't have to change anything again...and I'm able to finish the throttle linkage...and I don't need any parts...and I get the shifter fixed...and...

 

[GLTHFJ60]

You think? The two points that the hard line is connected to have zero flex between them. There should be no fatigue that way. Are you saying that just the vibration Of the engine is going to make the hard line fail? It's pretty solid, there is no - zero - wiggle in it. Please don't make me spend more money.

Think about it this way. If there was no risk of that oil line breaking, then why did Cummins use a steel braided line, and not a hard line, in the stock configuration?

 

[Wyoming]

I started last night by installing the street elbow that completed the oil filter relocation. Those lines are stiff.

 

[Wyoming]

Then it was time to deal with plumbing the fuel. this meant that it was time to lose the last of the fuel injection system. I had to remove the end of the -8AN line, put it through the holes in the crossmember and put the end back on. Those of you who have dealt with the delight that is steel braided hose will feel my pain. After that the rest was easy.

 

[Wyoming]

In the middle of doing the fuel hoses, because I had to relocate the remote steering reservoir, and that needed a hose change, I relocated the remote steering reservoir. This meant fabricating a bracket.

After that, I tried to figure out how I was goint to build the steering linkage and what I had in my head was not goint to work. By then, I was tired and just wanted to do some piddley little things that needed to be finished. I didn't take pictures, sorry.

I did hook up the oil pressure line (Do this while the rngine is out of the truck, trust me), installed the thermocouple, and the boost fitting.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

I-man, it's looking great brother. Wish I could see her in person. Maybe on one of my trips back up.

J

 

[Elbert]

you have to be careful about how hard lines connect and from where and to what. Fuel, Oil, coolant, brake fluid...are areas of concern.... good tip from cullmancruiser.

 

[SNLC]

Sunday, I went to Carquest with one of those brass fittings that you see on the oil filter relocation adapter to find some 3/4" hose which iIwas going to use with some hose clamps for the lines for the oil filter relocation. Wrong! Can't use hose clamps on a system that may broduce 110 lbs of preasure on start. So, two hours later after another trip back to the shop to get some parts I had some high dollar, high preasure hoses for the oil filter relocation. I know I took pictures of those, but they are not here either. I'll get them later.

I did pick up the pipe elbow I needed to plumb the upper radiator hose. It's not nearly as nice as Cullman's, but it will do.

I have hose clamps on my diesel oil system and have had no problems. It easily hits 80psi at start up but not much more unless I rev it when cold. However, the truck hasn't left the driveway much yet and by the time it does I am planning to change all clamps to t-clamps.

I am an irrigation & landscaping contractor by trade. I been using hose clamps on poly pipe for many many years. Water hammer can easily cause pressure spikes 3x or more of working pressure. Around here, it is not uncommon to see 80psi for static and working pressures. Never had a hose clamp come off unless it wasn't put on right. If you double clamp, oppose them and you will get more out of them. I think they are good to 150psi if using barbed fittings.

Not saying t-clamps are not the way to go, they are. But hose clamps will work, at least for awhile.

 

[Wyoming]

I have hose clamps on my diesel oil system and have had no problems. It easily hits 80psi at start up but not much more unless I rev it when cold. However, the truck hasn't left the driveway much yet and by the time it does I am planning to change all clamps to t-clamps.

I am an irrigation & landscaping contractor by trade. I been using hose clamps on poly pipe for many many years. Water hammer can easily cause pressure spikes 3x or more of working pressure. Around here, it is not uncommon to see 80psi for static and working pressures. Never had a hose clamp come off unless it wasn't put on right. If you double clamp, oppose them and you will get more out of them. I think they are good to 150psi if using barbed fittings.

Not saying t-clamps are not the way to go, they are. But hose clamps will work, at least for awhile.

Thanks for the info RMP&O. I'll keep that in mind next time. For now, I paid enough for these I might as well use them.

 

[Wyoming]

Last night I gave some attention to the throttle linkage. I used my pedal from the LC and cut it down and turned it over. I found a very cool linkage on the scrap shelf in the shop. It had swivels on both ends with screws through them, but one of the screws was broken. Otherwise, it was exactly what I needed.

 

[Wyoming]

I still have some little kinks to work out in the system, but is going to work nicely when done.

I did some other things last night, tightened some fittings and hose clamps, etc...and put in some fluids. Turns out, I didn't install any way to add the oil. Well done. I had to remove a valve cover and pour the oil in that way. So, while I was doing it, I removed all the valve covers and poured oil over the rockers, what the heck. As you can see, I'm using JD break in oil, 10W-30, for the initial break in. Thye recommend using it for the first 300 hours, but I'm thinking more like 50. 300 would take me to next summer.