CT26 How to make it spool at lower rpm?
- Thread starter danhr
- Start date
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Thanks, a picture would help.
- Thread starter
- #43
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tec...-fuel-adjustment-power-increase-answered.html
See this. If you can't clearly see the IP, let me know and I will take a new picture right now.
Thanks, Dougal.
See this. If you can't clearly see the IP, let me know and I will take a new picture right now.
Thanks, Dougal.
Okay, it sounds like you've undone the locknut on the back and turned the wheel inside until the screw the locknut is one has almost disappeared inside. IS this right?
What does the actuator can below the "guide bushing" do?
- Thread starter
- #45
For the max fuel:
I have removed the lock nut completely and screwed in the all-thread rod just enough so that capnut can be installed to hold it in place.
(all-thread rod = a rod with threads having one end that accepts a flat screw driver)
For boost compensator:
Nut removed and all-thread bold screwd in tight.
The acutator below is the idle up for AC.
I have removed the lock nut completely and screwed in the all-thread rod just enough so that capnut can be installed to hold it in place.
(all-thread rod = a rod with threads having one end that accepts a flat screw driver)
For boost compensator:
Nut removed and all-thread bold screwd in tight.
The acutator below is the idle up for AC.
For the boost compensator, have you undone the plug on the side and turned the star-wheel inside?
Maybe the threaded rod turns the star-wheel, but it might not. It might just reduce the stroke, limiting fuel.
- Thread starter
- #47
In boost compensator there are two settings. One is the all-thread rod and as I mentioned in my former post that I have done this. The other is the star wheel found under the allen bolt.
Removing the allen bolt gives access to this wheel. I inserted a flat screw driver at the bottom and pushed the wheel upwards i.e. moved the star wheel clockwise.
I couldn't move it past a click. I can move it anti clockwise. Clockwise movement is to increase the fuel (generally speaking). Hence I have already done it and it is on max settings.
Still, no change in EGT, no smoke, nothing.
Removing the allen bolt gives access to this wheel. I inserted a flat screw driver at the bottom and pushed the wheel upwards i.e. moved the star wheel clockwise.
I couldn't move it past a click. I can move it anti clockwise. Clockwise movement is to increase the fuel (generally speaking). Hence I have already done it and it is on max settings.
Still, no change in EGT, no smoke, nothing.
I'd unbolt it from the pump body for a look inside. On most inline pumps both of those adjustments result in limited rack movement. My A type pump (on my Isuzu) has a single plunger which extends into the pump body to limit rack movement. Take out the plunger and it disables the boost compensator.
Yours will be different, but will probably work on the same principle.
- Thread starter
- #49
Dougal:
I talked to diesel pump mechanic and he said that the settings are correct and to the max. There is nothing that can be done.
I even told him to advance the IP. He tried but it seems that the IP is advanced to the max as well.
I talked to diesel pump mechanic and he said that the settings are correct and to the max. There is nothing that can be done.
I even told him to advance the IP. He tried but it seems that the IP is advanced to the max as well.
Do you have a photo of the data plate on your pump? Some of them include the plunger size in the pump and that size can give a good indication of what the pump can put out.
For example even the 3B pump can put out enough for about 400Nm, I'd expect the 13BT pump to put out significantly more than that, This means you should be able to easily overfuel the pump to the point of smoke. If you can't even produce smoke then something is limiting the rack travel inside the pump.
RufusTheDufus
SILVER Star
When you move it anti-clockwise are you able to move it back the same number of clockwise clicks to the original starting position?
I'm just wondering if you are adjusting clockwise are you running into some type of restriction other than the end of the adjustment range? Maybe the rack needs to be moved manually or maybe there should be boost pressure on the diaphragm?
In reading the chart at the top of page FU-96 in this post you can see that the stop screw controls the rack position when there's no boost. The guide bushing controls the rack position when boost is present. I wouldn't be surprised if you're not able to move the star wheel in one direction without pressure on the diaphragm. You're hitting a mechanical limit.
RufusTheDufus
SILVER Star
When you say you are disconnecting your waste gate in this post what does this mean? You're removing the control rod or the boost signal to the wastegate's diaphragm?
IMO, your description above makes me think your wastegate isn't closing all the way causing some exhaust energy to bypass the the turbine. Are you able to disconnect the actuator rod and manually operate the wastegate lever on the turbo? Does it feel smooth? Can you wire it closed and then test how much boost you get?
RufusTheDufus
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #54
Dougal:
The markings on the IP is damaged. I cannot make anything of it.
RufusTheDufus:
Disturbing any settings... there is no way of turning back 100% as it was before. For the full load screw; no I don't feel any click or anything. The all-thread bolt screws in freely with fingers and in fact, I was concerned that I do not screw in too much such that bolt goes inside the IP and is lost.
For the boost compensator; I feel it pushing against something like a diaphragm. One needs a flat screwdriver for it and cannot be done by just fingers. When full screwed in, it screws in tight leaving behind some threads.
I disconnected the wastegate for higher PSI. And, I did remove the actuator and even replaced it. The wastegate opens and closes freeley. I did tie up the wastegate closed as well as open to see the boost difference. Nothing much to report other than I saw black smoke with wastegate tied open with zero boost. The spool was the same with wastegate tied closed.
The markings on the IP is damaged. I cannot make anything of it.
RufusTheDufus:
Disturbing any settings... there is no way of turning back 100% as it was before. For the full load screw; no I don't feel any click or anything. The all-thread bolt screws in freely with fingers and in fact, I was concerned that I do not screw in too much such that bolt goes inside the IP and is lost.
For the boost compensator; I feel it pushing against something like a diaphragm. One needs a flat screwdriver for it and cannot be done by just fingers. When full screwed in, it screws in tight leaving behind some threads.
I disconnected the wastegate for higher PSI. And, I did remove the actuator and even replaced it. The wastegate opens and closes freeley. I did tie up the wastegate closed as well as open to see the boost difference. Nothing much to report other than I saw black smoke with wastegate tied open with zero boost. The spool was the same with wastegate tied closed.
RufusTheDufus
SILVER Star
Did you plug the fitting on the turbo where you pulled the hose off? If you just disconnect the hose but don't cap off the fitting you'll lose boost pressure.
Not sure if anyone has already mentioned this, but on other turbocharged engines I have experience with, the wastegates start to leak boost past them when any boost pressure is achieved.
By using a manual boost controller, the wastegate does not see any boost pressure until the manual boost controller opens up. This means boost can build at lower rpm, and the turbo spools up faster.
By using a manual boost controller, the wastegate does not see any boost pressure until the manual boost controller opens up. This means boost can build at lower rpm, and the turbo spools up faster.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
I don't share this point .. by passing the wastegate of avoiding it, just made you able to make more boost but not necesary make boost at lower rpm ..
To make boost at lower rpms you will need a smaller AR tubrine ( variable vane turbo ) or more diesel and the more diesel option have limits ..
RufusTheDufus
SILVER Star
That's mostly true. However a boost controller will make the engine feel like it builds boost sooner. It will certainly build more torque sooner in the RPM range.
A stock diaphragm type of wastegate will start opening as low as 2 or 3 psi. It's typically fully open by 7 psi. If the wastegate doesn't start opening until 7 psi the engine will feel like it's building boost sooner even though it's not going to start producing boost lower in the RPM range.
crushers
post ho
disagree, blocking the wastegate does not make the turbo boost lower.
the wastegate will not open till the max setting has been reached, once it does then it will open. otherwise the wastegate is redundant.
he needs the proper turbo for his desires, all this other playing around is just a waste of time and energy.
the wastegate will not open till the max setting has been reached, once it does then it will open. otherwise the wastegate is redundant.
he needs the proper turbo for his desires, all this other playing around is just a waste of time and energy.
Yeah, this is my point. It won't start to build boost sooner, though it will reach more useful boost levels sooner.
