Crockpot possible seizure?

[roadstr6]

Looking for confirmation that 13202-60011 is the correct part number for the bearing set?

You need to look at a bearing that did not spin to see if there are any markings to confirm it is the standard size or measure a less mangled crank journal to determine its size. If the engine has ever been rebuilt, the bearing will be thicker than standard. Once you have this info in hand, order the bearings you need. If the Toyota bearing happens to not be available, aftermarket is. I don’t think I’d worry too much about brand loyalty with what you’re trying to accomplish. Just clean up that crank get some bearings.

 

[pkniland]

I pulled another, don't have a picture, but it appeared to be a standard bearing. I tried to find standard size bearings and the above part number is what I think the replacement would be, just trying to confirm though.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Without measuring or identifying marks there's no way you can visually tell whether it's a standard bearing or an oversize/undersize bearing. You really have to measure before you order. We're talking thousandths, not quarter inches.

 

[pkniland]

This is a few days ago now, but whatever markings were on there led me to belive they are standard. Ill take some pictures when i get back under the truck.

With the tolerances being as small as they are Im not sure how to get a accurate measurement with it still in the truck?

 

[roadstr6]

This is a few days ago now, but whatever markings were on there led me to belive they are standard. Ill take some pictures when i get back under the truck.

With the tolerances being as small as they are Im not sure how to get an accurate measurement with it still in the truck?

Micrometer.

 

[pkniland]

 

[cruisermatt]

I spun one like that on a 3FE once when I and tried what you are doing back, it did not last long before it knocked. Like two or three weeks.

 

[pkniland]

I spun one like that on a 3FE once when I and tried what you are doing back, it did not last long before it knocked. Like two or three weeks.

Was the knock on the same cylinder? Im going to replace all the bearings, but if it doesn't last im only $80 in at this point

 

[cruisermatt]

Yeah, it spun the bearing again.

Was the knock on the same cylinder? Im going to replace all the bearings, but if it doesn't last im only $80 in at this point

 

[pkniland]

Scotch brite, 150, 400. Cleaned up pretty well. Fingernail doesnt catch, we'll see... bearings come tuesday

 

[cruisermatt]

That doesn’t look too bad actually. Mine was a lot worse looking

 

[S4Cruiser]

That doesn’t look too bad actually.

Agreed!

 

[izzyandsue]

You got fingernails left? Looking good, slap them on and run that bad boy.

 

[roadstr6]

Be sure to use assembly lube on the bearing so it doesn't run dry the first few revolutions before your oil pump kicks in.

 

[bkfj40]

Hope it works for ya ! I did one similar to that and it worked for me

 

[pkniland]

Started replacing bearings. It was going pretty well until i hit the #3 piston. The cap was a lot tougher getting off than the first three. I put a new bearing in, torqued it down, and the engine wouldn't spin. I fooled with it a few more times and same thing. I swapped the cap around just to see if i installed it wrong. It would spin, but the rod bolt head was hitting the camshaft. The threads got all buggered up on the rod bolt too. Im thinking maybe the rod bolt got twisted somehow

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I think everyone was expecting you to just replace that one bearing. Are you replacing all of them?

If the rod bolt is causing the interference you can order a new set, but you're knocking on the door of a rebuild at that point. Not so far as cost, but replacing all rod bearings.

Rod caps (and main caps fwiw) can't generally be flipped. They're honed to size after the fasteners are torqued to make sure they're round. Usually there are (witness) marks denoting which side goes where for each of them.

Did you keep a record of what you changed so you can walk it back?

 

[roadstr6]

I advised him to go ahead and replace them all, as all he could find for sale was a full set, and if one spun, the others were likely in bad shape as well. Maybe that was bad advice, I don’t know? The bearing he is having trouble with is not the one that spun. It’s the one next to it…and he says it was in bad shape, even if it didn’t spin.

 

[pkniland]

I think everyone was expecting you to just replace that one bearing. Are you replacing all of them?

If the rod bolt is causing the interference you can order a new set, but you're knocking on the door of a rebuild at that point. Not so far as cost, but replacing all rod bearings.

Rod caps (and main caps fwiw) can't generally be flipped. They're honed to size after the fasteners are torqued to make sure they're round. Usually there are (witness) marks denoting which side goes where for each of them.

Did you keep a record of what you changed so you can walk it back?

All the bearings were rough, so I think replacing them all was the right call. And the first three swapped out bueatifully.


There is a number on the bottom of each cap so i made sure to put the cap back on the way it came off. On #3 when i put the new bearing on it woulndt rotate once the cap was torqued. The cap does fit flipped, and it spins, but then the bolt head hits the cam.

I think there is an issue with the rod but to your point at I might as well just rebuild of swap.

 

[Green Hell Mustang]

Started replacing bearings. It was going pretty well until i hit the #3 piston. The cap was a lot tougher getting off than the first three. I put a new bearing in, torqued it down, and the engine wouldn't spin. I fooled with it a few more times and same thing. I swapped the cap around just to see if i installed it wrong. It would spin, but the rod bolt head was hitting the camshaft. The threads got all buggered up on the rod bolt too. Im thinking maybe the rod bolt got twisted somehow

Something seems screwy. Could the replacement bearing be for an undersized rod journal - a resurfaced or polished crankshaft? I'd be curious to see how the rod bearings you pulled out of #3 compare to the new ones. There will obviously be some difference in bearing material, but I doubt there would be enough of a difference to stop to crank from spinning.

The brains of IH8MUD would know better than I on this one, but would this be a good situation to use plastigauge to measure the clearances of that bearing journal?