Couldn’t help it..... Bought it, 1987 FJ60 (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Nov 21, 2020
Threads
1
Messages
27
Location
colorado
Well I just bought the slowest vehicle I’ve ever driven. I’m convinced I bought a tractor and I love the damn thing. I’m determined to keep this iron pig rolling over the mountain tops of Colorado. I bought it from the original owner and it’s still stock. Before I can trust it in the backwoods I need to rebuild the motor (The #4 cylinder is down to 90 psi) I’ll be upwards of 10,000 feet of elevation from time to time, I live at 8000 feet. Not a good place to have problems. I’m new to FJ,s and I’m looking for a little advice on a good direction for a rebuild. Ive read about de-smogging, recurving dizzy, fuel injection, HO F2 engines ect. Anybody have any advise for a newbie? What would you do with a stock FJ60 with 160,000 miles on it and ready for a rebuild? Thanks for reading.
 
before jumping into a rebuild, you make sure what is actually going on with the engine
adjust valves, leak down test, etc
 
That’s a good point. Im going to Investigate but I’m still going to lean towards a rebuild. This will give the opportunity to learn my 2f motor in detail. I’ve rebuilt Chevy’s before but this is a different animal. Im looking forward to breaking this truck down.
 
160,000 iles on a 2F is nothing, it should go double that before needing anything internally done.
if you want to tear it all down go for it
you should check pricing and availablity of parts first.
 
That’s exactly why I bought it. 160,000, ran pretty good too. 65 MHP down the road at 8000’ I thought I was in the clear. To my surprise when pulling the plugs to check compression I noticed the plugs might be original. They didn’t just slip out either. I can only assume maintenance wasn’t kept up on it. I got a steal on it, so I’m not upset, I just assumed at some point I was going to rebuild it anyways. I will check the valves and top end when I get the maintenance manual. It will get a full run through buy next spring. I’ll have to find and replace parts regardless of price. I might have to hunt them down or build them but I’m game.
 
160,000 iles on a 2F is nothing, it should go double that before needing anything internally done.
if you want to tear it all down go for it
you should check pricing and availablity of parts first.
I’ll echo this statement. I recently purchased a 1985 with 190k on it. Engine was in much need of maintenance and after I did the following its running much stronger:

replaced plugs, and plug wires with oem. Original plug wires were purchased from mcgeorge Toyota for 65.00 plus shipping
adjusted valves
replaced intake manifold gasket
checked timing
adjusted carb

My final project is to replace the valve stem seals as they are original.

Also, get yourself a good vacuum gauge as this helps asses the health of the engine and pinpoint where issues might be.

Also, when you did your compression, make sure you do this after valve adjustment and with all plugs out and the throttle wide open.
 
Thanks 3 Puppies, I will be doing all the above maintenance at some point, good tip on the vacuum gauge. Vacuum is as important as fuel pressure or compression and timing. I did remove all the plugs when doing the compression test but did not open up the throttle. I did squirt some oil in the low cylinder and it came up 10 PSI or so, but still outside the 10% spec and at this point assumed the cylinder was compromised. FYI all other cylinders were at 120 give or take a PSI or three, #4 never came up over 90 PSI, also never really make a big jump up to 90, just gradually maxed out over many cranks. Sounds like my next immediate steps should be valve adjustment, another compression test with throttle fully open and collect more data on this engine. Thanks All.
 
A rebuilt and tricked out 2F engine wont have much more power than what you've got.
Yes the FJ60 is a fun vehicle at sea level, but up in the mountains the engine probably puts out 70 HP at best - even when rebuilt
 
As you wish..... It's got some good rust and damage on the right side wheel well and rockers, plus some on the driver rear quarter panel. It needs work but I got the time, Covid -19 is helping with that. The frame and cab mounts are all good. I'm practicing sheet metal welding as of right now. I don't have the right size Mig wire at the moment and not to happy with flux core .030. I ordered some .025 solid with the right gas combo. I bet I improve to a better standard soon.

2.jpg


3.jpg


5.jpg


7.jpg


8.jpg
 
Looks like everything is intact, on the engine. HAC is there, (High Altitude Compensator), but you may want to rebuild and re-jet the carb for that altitude, particularly with modern gas, and more so if you're planning on desmogging the engine.... At that altitude, carb will tend to run rich.

Nice project!
 
Well, I got the chance to adjust the valves, Everyone of them were out of tolerance. All the gaps were to small. Did a compression test after the adjustment and #4 came back up in family with the rest. #1= 128psi #2- 125psi #3=130psi #4=120 psi #5=123psi and #6 =125psi. I can assume #4 was so far out of whack the exhaust wasn't closing all the way. Any thoughts? Runs noticeably better and quieter. I think I'm going to get rid of the carb all the smog and get fuel injection (any recommendations), Then upgrade the distributor to the DUI, replace hoses or age worn out items, get new tires. It has an old man 2.5" lift and I'm thinking 33'' x 10.5 on the original 15" wheels then drive it like a stole it.
 
several guys are running Holley Sniper with good results
not sure DUI is an upgrade to the stock distributor.
 
I'm under the impression that the stock distributor has to go because it has points and TBI units will need a distributor and an ECU that can control the advanced timing? I haven't dug deep into this yet but I will certainly look into the Holley Sniper. Thanks Again Mr. Puppies
 
I'm under the impression that the stock distributor has to go because it has points and TBI units will need a distributor and an ECU that can control the advanced timing? I haven't dug deep into this yet but I will certainly look into the Holley Sniper. Thanks Again Mr. Puppies


all US OEM distributors after 1978? are fully electronic, but they use a vacumn advance.
there have been a few issues with the gear on the DUI wearing the gear on the camshaft.

there should be several threads about the sniper units, not sure what distributor they are using.
 
I’m not invested in any distribution. Just looking for advise. So thanks mr puppies. I want to keep this thing a tractor.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom