Builds COS80's 1997 LX 450 Build Thread (4 Viewers)

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I like my new negative battery terminal so much, I made a positive to match. It looks great, but now I'm just a dropped wrench away from an "event", so I'll need to devise some sort of cover(s). I thought about melting some thin thermoplastic sheet over each side with a heat gun... other ideas?

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Are the threaded posts rated to carry the full amperage?

A sheet of kydex plastic could be shaped sa battery cover.
I've often thought of creating a plastic cover to cover the whole battery box area with a small lip on the front edge so it doubles as a spot to put down tools
 
Are the threaded posts rated to carry the full amperage?

A sheet of kydex plastic could be shaped sa battery cover.
I've often thought of creating a plastic cover to cover the whole battery box area with a small lip on the front edge so it doubles as a spot to put down tools
No idea if there's a difference between the posts. I never thought of that.

I like the idea of a full cover. I bought some plastic, and it's big enough to do that. If I can think of something to make it flat and level, maybe I will go that direction instead.

EDIT: X2 doesn't say anything about a difference between terminals, and there's no indication of a problem, so I'm going to continue to asume they are equivalent.
 
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One of my front wheels started squeaking after a water crossing, so this weekend I repacked my wheel bearings. I also replaced my starter contacts to remedy an intermittent click/no start condition.
I was just searching for the contact kit part number and couldn’t find it. Could you post it?
 
28226-66060 battery terminal kit
28226-72010 motor terminal kit
28235-54380 plunger
Thanks. I was under the impression there was a single part number that included all those parts.
 
I fixed my drooping DS sun visor today with the magnet fix. $7! I hope the masking tape holds... duct tape was useless.

EDIT: I can see I need to clarify... the tape is to hold the upper magnet down on the top of the headliner. Without it, it snaps onto the roof panel, and then it's too far away from the one in the visor to grab it.
 
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You and I are are lurking around the same pages today. My visor has been sitting on the floor next to my desk for a month, waiting for me to fix it.
 
Aftermarket maybe?

verify compatibility yourself

I used to buy mine from Alternator and Starter Parts Wholesale. They stopped "kitting" parts together during COVD and haven't restarted. I'm ghosting them. I hope they read this.
 
Some glamour shots from today's trail ride.

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Those last two were the scariest moment I've had offroading yet. I thought I was going over.
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Careful where those front wheels are pointed. That’s how you can get tippy. Steering left there at first can help you be more stable…
 
A sheet of kydex plastic could be shaped sa battery cover.
I've often thought of creating a plastic cover to cover the whole battery box area with a small lip on the front edge so it doubles as a spot to put down tools
Now that’s using the noggin. Show us the prototype…😆
 
A few weeks ago, I sank the LX, aka the USS 80. Attempted a frozen creek crossing and failed miserably. This cost me $700 in repairs, mostly related to shorting out the O2 sensors (filled the entire exhaust with water) and getting water in the diffs. All this is fixed, now, and it's running better than ever! The idle is so glassy-smooth now.
 
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Today I finished up a set of custom roof rack brackets to mount traction boards. I used stainless threaded rods and nuts from a kit off of amazon and made the brackets out of 1/8" steel. The whole point was that every kit I could find raises the height of the boards, and worse, they're all designed for four boards, not two. I don't have the garage clearance for any of that, so I made these.



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This and the shovel mounts both came about with the realization that the crossbars are 8020 compatible. All of this is secured with roll-in t-nuts.
 
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With the discovery that I have 16X8et-25 wheels (they came on the truck from the PO), I decided to upgrade to 315/75/16 KO3s. I haven't driven it yet, so we'll see what sort of trimming and bump stop tuning will be required. The new tires don't really change the look of the truck by much, but the tires themselves look great!

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I had to remove one trim piece from the top of my garage door to get it in. 37s and more lift will require major modifications, or a new garage.

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I'm hitting the trail this weekend, and very much looking forward to seeing how much improvement these tires yield.


I had to modify my tire carrier, as the 33" tire touched the can carrier. I spent the weekend moving the tire carrier an inch outboard. This is still underway, so I'll post pics when I'm done.
 
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I had to modify the can carrier, like I said, to fit the 35s. This was pretty straightforward, but a lot of work. My friend @Goslow and I had to drill new one inch holes to accommodate 1" OD X 1/2" ID X 2" L spacers. Drilling holes that big without breaking a rib or a wrist was the hardest part of the job. We used 11 different drill bits in sequence. Since the tube has spacers, we realized it was unnecessary to close the old holes.

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In order to adjust the jack and the carrier to fit the new tire, I had to make this spacer. I'm especially proud of this, because it's the first thing I ever welded with a mig welder.

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We got the lateral adjustment about perfect.

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Here's the finalized swingout.

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Adjusted to perfection!

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The first thing I found, at the start of this job, was the seals were shot, so I replaced them both and repacked the bearing. They glide like a dream again. The seals that were in there were apparently out of production, but a suitable replacement is p/n 171255TB, 1.719'' X 2.565'' X 0.500", available everywhere. They're the thin metal type, so I needed four to replace the two, junking the first attempt on each side.
 
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