Correct lugnut torque (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

FJ809496TLC

80 series addict
Joined
Jul 30, 2003
Threads
161
Messages
1,932
Location
Texas, Pinas and Germany
Unbelievable. Had to argue with the manager at Discount Tires about the correct torque for shank/washer type lugnuts for an alloy wheels on a '96 LC 80 series. They want to torque it to 110 ft. lbs. and even showed me their chart and told him no and to torque it to 76 ft.lbs. instead. Here are the different answers from different places I called. 1)Toyota Stealership at 95lb.ft. 2) 4Wheel Parts at 76lb.ft 3) Slee at 76lb.ft. Anyway DT won, didn't have my FSM with me to show them and won't let me drive the 80 for liability reason. Retorqued all lugnuts to 76lb.ft. when I got home. Take your FSM and don't leave home without it. :D
 
I had the exact same argument with them concerning my 4Runner. It's amazing how steadfast they are in sticking with their info. Ultimately, they overtorqued my wheels and I re-did them myself as well:rolleyes:.
 
Hopefully the dumb bastards did not damage the lug nuts or the wheel mounting interface. The studs will take the torque, the wheel/nut interface should not be subjected to it.

Your owner's manual (you DO have one in your glove box, correct?) would have bailed you out with the dip-s***.

You should be a dick and go back, manual in hand, and demand they replace all your lug nuts with new OEM pieces.......:lol:
 
Anyone know the max torque of the orange pre-set slip-torque-wrench-sorta extension thingy that SEARS uses??
 
"Torque-Stix", I believe.

Don't know about orange but a search on the above moniker might get a hit.

As far as I am concerned a torqe-stix does not equal a genuine torque wrench. The lug nuts on my vehicle have NEVER seen a rattle-wrench and they never will.
 
That's it, thanks. I agree, never liked them, but always get my tires at SEARS, got tired of asking them to do things a certain way; usually just gets me the look. Same guys who stripped all my drive flange studs.

Edit: crap, not sure if these are universal colors, but IIRC I have seen the SEARS tire tech use the orange one when putting my wheels back on after a rotation. If this info is correct for all brands (?more than one brand) of the devices, then they have been torquing mine to 110lbft. Oh well.

Model No: AK2243
Drive Size: 1/2”Sq
Colour: Torque Rating:
Yellow 80lb.ft (110Nm)
Red 90lb.ft (120Nm)
Blue 100lb.ft (135Nm)
Orange 110lb.ft (150Nm)
Colour: Size:
Blue 17mm
Gold 19mm
Red 21mm
Green 22mm
 
Last edited:
Hopefully the dumb bastards did not damage the lug nuts or the wheel mounting interface. The studs will take the torque, the wheel/nut interface should not be subjected to it.

Your owner's manual (you DO have one in your glove box, correct?) would have bailed you out with the dip-s***.

You should be a dick and go back, manual in hand, and demand they replace all your lug nuts with new OEM pieces.......:lol:
I will double check the lugnuts and the wheel mounting interfaces to see if there are any damages Dan. I was going to get the owner's manual in the glove compartment to show it to the manager but forgot to put it back after I finish cleaning it up earlier. :whoops: I did tell the manager that I'm going back to show him what the manual says. Thanks.
 
Last edited:
... I did tell the manager that I'm going back to show him what the manual says. Thanks.

This has been going on for years, they don't care. I had a talk with the manager at the local store, a bunch of others on Mud also have and they haven't changed it. Doesn't matter to me, their "tire techs" will never touch my rig, if I have a tire problem, I take the tire to them.
 
... then they have been torquing mine to 110lbft. Oh well. ...

What you meant to say was, to "about" or "in the neighborhood of" 110lbft? Those sticks aren't that accurate.:D
 
Oh well.
 
There will not be any wheel damage if the shank lugs are torqued to 110. I torque mine to 110 after the wheel spacers since they are lug centric. I figure the extra torque will keep the lugs from moving around and like Dan said the threads on the studs can take it. The lug turns a hair more at 110 from 78, seriously doubt that will do anything to the wheel. I personally would not tolerate BS from any tire shop. I never had an issue in the past when I asked for 78 and not 110 at Discount. Maybe you didn't seem authoritative enough.
 
Their torque wrenches aren't even accurate, forget about stix. I have a friend who is manager of a store in Tucson. He tells his guys to do as I ask, they still look at me squirrely though. I insist on no air tools and torque my steel rims to 80. I watch them do it. Then I go home and torque to 95. Some turn nearly a full turn and others barely turn at all. That tells you how good their torque wrenches are.

I started this procedure after I sheered of 6 lugs when rotating my tires. DT was the last ones to touch it before that.
 
I've had the same issues @ Firestone and NTB, I have them enter into my account info the correct torque, and mention it to the 'tire tech' each time, Have the Service writer write the torque in big numbers on the order. When possible..... I've even installed the wheels & torqued my own lugnuts with my Snap-On torque wrench before the tech gets to it.

I don't leave the truck, and don't have them work on the Cruiser when they are really busy... the shop is convenient enough that I can wait for another day.

It's amazing what service you can get if you slip the tire tech a $5.. (Though one shouldn't have to) :hmm:
 
next time, when they pull the "liability" crap on you, insist they write down for you that they refused to let you drive out without the lugs at 110 despite your specific instructions and admonitions that this will damage the nuts and wheels... :)
 
My owners manual for my 93 says 116 Ft lbs. but I have been torquing them to 110 Ft lbs. I think I saw 110 in the FSM, that is what their chart must be based from. However the lug nuts on mine are conical and yours are flat so 110 sounds way to much.
 
A mechanic friend of mine questions the accuracy of any torque wrench, claiming they easily go out of adjustment. He has his calibrated by snap-on every 6 months, and is pretty anal about keeping it stored in its plastic case and safely in a drawer until needed. Only he uses it. He tells me the wear and tear a communal torque wrench gets at a commercial shop like Firestone, etc, is enough to throw off its calibration. Dropping it, and even putting it down hard on the workbench or shop floor is enough to throw it off.

I have no idea if this is factual or just his opinion...
 
I have had the same problem with Discount Tire as y'all. I have always wondered if this is one of the main reasons our front discs warp. The flyer in the box of my last front discs describes warpage problems due to over and uneven torqueing. When are those tire monkeys going to learn? :bang:
 
IIRC, 110lbs. is for factory steel rims.

I ALWAY tell Discount tire 80lbs. I have them write it on the work order, as well as the correct 5 tire rotation. I have seen these clowns do random rotations so I am very specific about it.

They don't give me grief about it, but they have had me initial the 80lbs. on the work order.
 
Unbelievable. Had to argue with the manager at Discount Tires about the correct torque for shank/washer type lugnuts for an alloy wheels on a '96 LC 80 series. They want to torque it to 110 ft. lbs. and even showed me their chart and told him no and to torque it to 76 ft.lbs. instead. Here are the different answers from different places I called. 1)Toyota Stealership at 95lb.ft. 2) 4Wheel Parts at 76lb.ft 3) Slee at 76lb.ft. Anyway DT won, didn't have my FSM with me to show them and won't let me drive the 80 for liability reason. Retorqued all lugnuts to 76lb.ft. when I got home. Take your FSM and don't leave home without it. :D

I had the identical scenario occur at the Discount tire shop in Murray, Utah, on 1/15/08 when I had a new set of tires installed. They insisted on 110 ft. lbs, I arm wrestled them down to 85 ft lbs for my alloy wheels, then I retorqued to 76 ft lbs when I returned home. Someone needs to club these guys over the head with the correct information!! I won't deal with these clowns, without my FSM in hand, from here on in. Had the same problem with Costco (incorrect lug nut torque specs), but they were easier to deal with, and torqued them correctly, when I signed off on it.:rolleyes:
 
Can anyone confirm that 116 Ft. Lbs. is correct for a 1993 with aluminum wheels as the owners manual states?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom