Cooling System Overhaul Pieces and Parts?
- Thread starter ewillis
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- Thread starter
- #43
This is the hard line...you're actually breaking the the lower bolt tab, not the entire line. Once it's unbolted at the top and disconnected from the heater valve, you will be able to wiggle/move it back and forth until the tab breaks off.
- Thread starter
- #45
You only need the top bolt.
Or, you can throw that metal pipe away and install a continuous section of hose from PHH outlet at the head up to the heater valve. If you are interested, search “PHH work around”. I’m not the only one who has done this and @NLXTACY can hook you up with info and the very simple parts you need to do this.
By doing this, you eliminate two hose clamps thus simplifying the set up with less possibilities for leaks and less hassle if/when you have to address this tube now in the future.
I tried that for 40 minutes yesterday before giving up and just installing while in the rig.
- Thread starter
- #48
Never understood why one wouldn't reuse the hard line. Once it's off, it is super easy to attach the new PHH and slide it on. Now that the lower bolt tab is broken, much easier to replace in 20 years when needed again.
I had no problem removing the lower bolt on the hard line with a 1/4" ratchet. Remove wheel, plastic curtain, and loosen the transmission dipstick line to give you enough room to move your hand around. I have fairly big hands and while not exactly easy, it's very doable. YMMV, but i felt better about having both bolts holding the pipe in place.
Radiator In! Debated here and there about which rad to get. Sought some advice from a forum member and ordered one of the higher quality aftermarket radiators (won't mention which one as others run em and like them), but I got the aftermarket halfway installed and wasn't happy with it. I pulled it and ordered an OEM. Mine was original to the truck and showed no signs of failure after 23 years.
To me, the 3 core brass OEM just looked and felt much higher quality...the packaging was even waaay better. I believe the OEM is about 5 lbs. heavier FWIW. Lessons learned: If you're keeping the truck and can afford the OEM...just do it! Also...watch that the cooler lines don't get trapped under the new rad. Be very careful of the overflow and bypass nipples. When installing the fan and shroud, place a piece of cardboard in between the rad and fan or you may ruin the cooling fins.
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This whole job was pretty involved for me. I would say I'm awrench and after all of this I earned my 3rd
Edit for additional thoughts:
I collected many of the parts through the classifieds over the past couple years. The water pump, belts, and fan clutch (even though I re-sold it) and got them at a discount. Purchased the rad, PHH, t-stat, hoses, and heater valve new. Can't say how much $$ I have into this project, but it adds up! I'm really glad it's all done though. Having nearly the entire cooling system refreshed was causing me to forgo some summer trips in the past because I didn't want a failure and knew it needed to be done. No more anxiety and my parts box is empty!
I just pulled an original brass radiator from my truck. Incredible build quality and heavier than expected. Was still "working" after 24 years, but couldn't keep up on a mountain pass on a hot summer day. Replacing it with one of the cheap aluminum/plastic ones that the guys in AZ like. Not sure if that will bite me, but if so, I'll get the aluminum/plastic toyota one. If I was in a cool climate, no question it would be OEM brass for me.
Just did my PHH yesterday and I couldn't get the tab to break off. Used every method of wiggling, bashing, yanking, bending I could think of, but it wouldn't let go. I also couldn't get a wrench on the lower bolt because the tube itself was in the way. The metal tube was too mangled from my attempt to kill it to be used. So I did the PHH bypass (which I planned to do anyway), and left the sorry busted little tube in place. Ghetto, but I wasn't getting anywhere with it and had to call it quits at some point.
The worst part: it turns out my PHH was in excellent condition. I really wish I had just left it alone. But I had the starter out, so I figured what the heck.
The worst part: it turns out my PHH was in excellent condition. I really wish I had just left it alone. But I had the starter out, so I figured what the heck.
I was in the same boat as you. So I had my wife try it and with her smaller arms she had enough space to wiggle it more than I could, breaking it off within 5 minutes.
Not that this information will help you now, but it may help another Mud member when they go to do this job. Craftsman tools use to make a inline hacksaw, seeing as the saw blade is held inline with the handle it makes the saw very compact, so it works great to saw off that tab you had such problems with. The fact is, this is the very tool i used when i replaced my PHH. Below is a photo of that saw, Craftsman tools discontinued this tool years ago but if you search Ebay you can still find used ones for sale, the Craftsman part number is 35481.
I'm trying to replace the heater(coolant) hose just under throttle body (PHH neighbor) which part no is it above? thanks again..
Wits End sells these as a kit.
Hard to say for sure which is the one you mean though.
Hard to say for sure which is the one you mean though.
16261-66040 is the by-pass hose you seek.
Lives under the throttle body.
I'm sure that's the correct one but you should double check my math.
Get to an online parts thing with pics.
Lives under the throttle body.
I'm sure that's the correct one but you should double check my math.
Get to an online parts thing with pics.
JUST what I was looking for this morning, thank you!