Definitely replace the heater valve.
Cooling System Overhaul Pieces and Parts?
- Thread starter ewillis
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- Thread starter
- #23
Beno, is 16400-66040 on your soon to be NLA list ??? The reason i ask, one of the Toyota dealerships i checked with listed it as NLA. So is it in fact being discontinued??
Radiator | Genuine Toyota | 16400-66040 : Toyota Online Parts | toyotaonlineparts.com | Toyota Parts Online
Radiator | Genuine Toyota | 16400-66040 : Toyota Online Parts | toyotaonlineparts.com | Toyota Parts Online
Why do I need to do anything of the sort?
Why don't you ask toyotaonlineparts.com?
What does this have to do with me?
I am happily on another continent trying to forget about these types of questions.
- Thread starter
- #26
Beno, your the member who is running the continuing thread here on mud about the 80 series parts that are being discontinued, or soon the be discontinued. So excuse me if i thought you might have some insight into this part becoming NLA soon.
What about the coolant line under the intake plenum? Mine has been leaking for 3 years. Is there just one under there? You might want to check under there while you are at it.
- Thread starter
- #30
Got the new PHH in! I loosened the transmission dipstick, but didn't remove it. For me, the most difficult parts were cutting the old hose and breaking the hard line. Breaking the hard line and reusing is definitely the way to go though. Once it's out, reinstalling is cake!
Lessons learned: Break and reuse the hard line...there is NO reason for the "workaround". When attempting to break the hard line, there is only enough room to wiggle back and fourth at first. Remember that you're trying to break something and get it a bit past the intake plenum and keep at it! It WILL break!
Lessons learned: Break and reuse the hard line...there is NO reason for the "workaround". When attempting to break the hard line, there is only enough room to wiggle back and fourth at first. Remember that you're trying to break something and get it a bit past the intake plenum and keep at it! It WILL break!
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- Thread starter
- #31
Heater control valve and ancillary hoses were perfect...replaced with OEM nonetheless. Lessons learned...none pretty straight forward.
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- Thread starter
- #32
OEM T-stat In...
Lessons learned-OEM only, O ring is purchased separately, and jiggle valve needs to be at 12:00
Lessons learned-OEM only, O ring is purchased separately, and jiggle valve needs to be at 12:00
- Thread starter
- #33
Water pump in! Again pretty straight forward.
Lessons learned: Be careful of the metal gasket. I somehow creased mine and was not comfortable using it...$10 to replace. The pump I used is a OEM Toyota that has the "Toyota" insignia ground off and re-branded with the Aisin sticker...common. When installing the pump studs be careful not to strip them. They are NOT available through Toyota without buying a new pump. If you strip them as I did, you'll have to replace them with the Doorman kit.
Lessons learned: Be careful of the metal gasket. I somehow creased mine and was not comfortable using it...$10 to replace. The pump I used is a OEM Toyota that has the "Toyota" insignia ground off and re-branded with the Aisin sticker...common. When installing the pump studs be careful not to strip them. They are NOT available through Toyota without buying a new pump. If you strip them as I did, you'll have to replace them with the Doorman kit.
- Thread starter
- #34
OEM black hub fan clutch modded with 10,000 CST silicon oil...easy!
Lessons learned-IDK...bought a blue hub but after additional reading decided to keep the black hub YMMV. When removing the screws, use the "hammer drill/impact" setting on your drill and they come loose with ease!
Lessons learned-IDK...bought a blue hub but after additional reading decided to keep the black hub YMMV. When removing the screws, use the "hammer drill/impact" setting on your drill and they come loose with ease!
- Thread starter
- #35
Radiator In! Debated here and there about which rad to get. Sought some advice from a forum member and ordered one of the higher quality aftermarket radiators (won't mention which one as others run em and like them), but I got the aftermarket halfway installed and wasn't happy with it. I pulled it and ordered an OEM. Mine was original to the truck and showed no signs of failure after 23 years.
To me, the 3 core brass OEM just looked and felt much higher quality...the packaging was even waaay better. I believe the OEM is about 5 lbs. heavier FWIW. Lessons learned: If you're keeping the truck and can afford the OEM...just do it! Also...watch that the cooler lines don't get trapped under the new rad. Be very careful of the overflow and bypass nipples. When installing the fan and shroud, place a piece of cardboard in between the rad and fan or you may ruin the cooling fins.
This whole job was pretty involved for me. I would say I'm a
wrench and after all of this I earned my 3rd Now time for a well earned step 6!
Edit for additional thoughts:
I collected many of the parts through the classifieds over the past couple years. The water pump, belts, and fan clutch (even though I re-sold it) and got them at a discount. Purchased the rad, PHH, t-stat, hoses, and heater valve new. Can't say how much $$ I have into this project, but it adds up! I'm really glad it's all done though. Having nearly the entire cooling system refreshed was causing me to forgo some summer trips in the past because I didn't want a failure and knew it needed to be done. No more anxiety and my parts box is empty!
To me, the 3 core brass OEM just looked and felt much higher quality...the packaging was even waaay better. I believe the OEM is about 5 lbs. heavier FWIW. Lessons learned: If you're keeping the truck and can afford the OEM...just do it! Also...watch that the cooler lines don't get trapped under the new rad. Be very careful of the overflow and bypass nipples. When installing the fan and shroud, place a piece of cardboard in between the rad and fan or you may ruin the cooling fins.
This whole job was pretty involved for me. I would say I'm a
wrench and after all of this I earned my 3rd Now time for a well earned step 6!Edit for additional thoughts:
I collected many of the parts through the classifieds over the past couple years. The water pump, belts, and fan clutch (even though I re-sold it) and got them at a discount. Purchased the rad, PHH, t-stat, hoses, and heater valve new. Can't say how much $$ I have into this project, but it adds up! I'm really glad it's all done though. Having nearly the entire cooling system refreshed was causing me to forgo some summer trips in the past because I didn't want a failure and knew it needed to be done. No more anxiety and my parts box is empty!
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Bad news, I just ordered Toyota part 16400-66040 as pictured above. No brass/copper though. plastic and aluminum 
- Thread starter
- #37
Bad news, I just ordered Toyota part 16400-66040 as pictured above. No brass/copper though. plastic and aluminum
All good as long as it's a Toyota/TRad.
The "tee" fitting circled in the below diagram has a 90* hose that comes off the bottom. It's not pictured. My guess is it's not serviced by Toyota? I don't think it's included in the parts list above. What is everyone using for a replacement? Since it's formed at a fairly sharp bend as shown in the second pic I'd rather not use bulk hose.
