Oh yeah, I was going to post results of my trial run with the solar panel... Well. New post? Not quite yet... Lets just say camping in the redwoods is not conducive to solar power. I had about 2 hours of sun a day, my battery was dead (for starting) after a day. I moved the truck to a sunny spot (almost full day) on day two, still couldn't start it. So, for my trial run, I'd say it was pretty much a flop. Things to consider: I ran party lights off an inverter most of day(night) one, as well as the stereo (low draw) and my ARB. My battery is old, but still "good". Through all this (four days...), the fridge ran fine, beer and perishables were cool and delicious, just couldn't start the truck. So the draw is minimal, and a small solar panel can probably handle the drain from a ARB/engel, etc, refrigerator if it gets full sun for at least 4-5 hours a day. My next step is to figure out if a "deep cycle" Optima-type battery will help with the constant (small) draw this type of appliance needs, and what can still start the truck. I'd rather not do dual batteries, but if that's what it takes...
Optima yellow or blue top-will solve all your issues. Your battery is low on amp hours or your lights draw more than you think. My fridge can run for 2 days and the battery will still start the truck.
If you have a Costco near you, check out the D34M battery.
I just got my dual battery setup installed complete with the new PowerGate isolator. I should have my new fridge/freeze next week and am anxious to see how all this works (or doesn't ) I went with the Exide Orbitals (regular for my main and the DC for the second).
I too just installed my dual battery setup that Dearborn built for me. I got an Optima blue top deep cycle for my second battery. I ran my new Norcold 60 quart fridge all night on setting 2 and then ran a flourescent shop light for an hour the next day with the fridge still cranking and the battery is down on volts where the inverter gives me the warning buzz if I turn it on. The cars volt meter shows a charging situation. Of course with the isolator the red top starts the truck with no proplem.
I have only commutted to work once, 22miles each way, and perhaps thats not enought to charge it back up. Anyone know if I can use a regular charger on the Optima's? Paper work says something about using a constant voltage charger.
Engel does make a thermometer kit for the cooler, but it isn't anything too sweet, looks just like many of the units you guys are using. I havn't heard any plans of a built in unit?
The panel is a 25 watt, I think it generates about 2 amps of current. It should cover the draw of the fridge, but like I said, the battery is at least 4 years old, and I've worked it pretty good this summer...
To keep things charged up nice, I really need 2 panels this size, if I'm figuring things right, but i'm pretty much out of money right now.
Bought it used, no thermo, it's a couple years old I think, but I can't find a scratch on it! (well there is, now)
Anyway, what I think I'll do is go get the Blue Top, and try to find one of those cut-off switches (Battery Buddy?) that saves enough current to start the truck. See how that and my solar panel handles things. And then I'll start thinking about a dual setup in the future...
another neg for the absorption fridge. I tested ours running off a fully-charged 130 Ah deep cycle battery and it only lasted about 12 hours or so until the battery was almost fully discharged. Probably more like 9 hours until the cooling became minimal.
(OTOH, it'll run for about a month on a 20 lbs prop tank...)