Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
X2 .. I remove my winch box and ligt off too .. always try to keep my grill as clean as posible ..
Cooling efforts pay dividends for my SC'd rig
- Thread starter Atoyot1031
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X2 .. I remove my winch box and ligt off too .. always try to keep my grill as clean as posible ..
- Thread starter
- #42
I tested mine before I mounted it, and it moved an equal amount of air regardless of direction (seat of the pants hand test
). If you mount it up and hook up the polarity either way, it is going to seem like more air is moving in the puller configuartion (blowing out of the engine bay) as there is nothing to diffuse it versus running air through the AC coils and radiator where the air is diffused and thus not blowing directly. Having tested it prior to install, seeing the results on install, and being reminded of what it does without the fan when I had a bad splice, I am confident in the configuration for my application.My winch solenoid box is mounted remotely on the under portion of the ARB. I've never taken the lights off the bumper as it seems they wouldn't do me much good on the floor of my garage.
I could certainly see this helping at highway speeds, but not on the trail.
I tested mine before I mounted it, and it moved an equal amount of air regardless of direction (seat of the pants hand test
From Derale's website:
http://www.derale.com/installation-instructions/tornado_e_fan_instruction.pdf
It may "feel" the same to you, but I figure there is a reason why every fan I've researched tells you to flip the fan blade as well as the wiring.
teejnut
SILVER Star
Yeah, I'm going to switch bumpers prob in the near future to one of the tube one's available and won't have the lights blocking the grill.
I tested mine before I mounted it, and it moved an equal amount of air regardless of direction (seat of the pants hand test
Hmm... maybe I'll just leave it then. It's already on there and sort of a pain to remove and reinstall. If you've tested both ways and they seem the same then that's good.
lockd80
Totally right
The lights effected my cooling was much worse when i had my stock bumper than with my current ARB. I believe it is because with the stock bumper the lights are much closer to the grill which makes them much more efficient obstructions.
I installed my lights with plugs that allow me to remove them easly and I just take them off when I am towing in the heat. They also go back on in less than 5min so I can just put them on when it gets dark if I think they will be needed.
I installed my lights with plugs that allow me to remove them easly and I just take them off when I am towing in the heat. They also go back on in less than 5min so I can just put them on when it gets dark if I think they will be needed.
- Thread starter
- #46
It may "feel" the same to you, but I figure there is a reason why every fan I've researched tells you to flip the fan blade as well as the wiring.
Mine's a Pro-Comp.
I have the RT modded temp gauge, and when I had my wiring short, off-road my temp guage was a needle's width below red, after fixing the short, it sat right in the middle. So my temp guage "felt" that it moves a bunch of air as well.
Mine's a Pro-Comp.
I have the RT modded temp gauge, and when I had my wiring short, off-road my temp guage was a needle's width below red, after fixing the short, it sat right in the middle. So my temp guage "felt" that it moves a bunch of air as well.
I haven't looked at the Pro-Comp, so I can't tell you if you need to flip the blade or not. I know some fans will push air either way, the blades are designed to function either way.
Heck, even directional blades will push air either way. My fan is clearly directional and if I flip the wiring I can feel a lot of air being moved out towards me (away from the radiator/condensor). Doesn't mean it's as effective and will move as much air as if you have the fan blade in the correct orientation.
Your seat of the pants measurement won't be able to differentiate between a couple hundred CFM. It may be that the lower CFM number works just fine for keeping your truck cool, as well.
If I had installed it backwards and it worked, I probably wouldn't pull it to flip it either. That being said, if you are in the process of installing it, there is absolutely no reason not to set it up correctly. The moral of the story is, RTFM. If it says to flip the blade, then flip the blade.
- Thread starter
- #48
lockd80
Totally right
I could not bring myself to cut a hole in my hood so I did this instead
Seems to work very good, not only does the truck run cooler and cool off faster when it does heat up but the
sais her feet are now cooler also!
Easly reversable in the winter too.
Seems to work very good, not only does the truck run cooler and cool off faster when it does heat up but the
sais her feet are now cooler also!Easly reversable in the winter too.
- Thread starter
- #50
I like it. I think cdan was talking about hood spacers, IIRC.
In the winter, it'll aid yer defroster as well.
In the winter, it'll aid yer defroster as well.
There is one major thing I dislike about hood spacers (other than the look), and that is if you get any sort of smoking from your engine, you're essentially blind.
Additionally you'll get any smells into your vents. Considering how much these trucks tend to stay "well oiled", that's pretty often...
Additionally you'll get any smells into your vents. Considering how much these trucks tend to stay "well oiled", that's pretty often...
Not me.
What I am playing around with is fender vents that incorporate marine bilge blowers, one on each side.
- Thread starter
- #54
lockd80
Totally right
I have been running these spacers for a month now an have not noticed any new smells even when I blew a power steering line and sprayed power steering fluid all over. It would require a lot of smoke to blind a person and I have not heard that as a problem with the thousands of cowl induction hoods on the road but I hope that will never be tested and like I said I only need to keep these in for two or three months out of the year.
what about just removing the weatherstrip from the back of the hood? Better looks IMO... not sure about help with cooling....
I've long been eyeballing the 60 style vents. I wonder how well it'd work....
- Thread starter
- #58
Not me.QUOTE]
I know what it was now. You said that when you propped yer hood up a couple inches idling you saw a drop of several degrees in water temp. Someone else was talking about poppin the back of the hood.
Why the fender vents Dan? Heat rises last time I checked.
Agreed, it does rise.
On the other hand water falls, through horizontal hood vents, right onto critical bits in the engine compartment.
Vents placed on the vertical surfaces of the fenders, behind the wheels, would be protected from direct water intrusion. If those vents were ducted with blowers in a manner that would draw hot air out of the engine compartment they would do at least as well as passive vents on the hood surface and the compartment would stay dry. The blowers could be switched on, as needed, easily.
By the way, I belive that it is not at all a good idea to raise the back edge of the hood as posted above.
The hood plays a vital roll in a frontal collision and it is designed and attached to the body in a very deliberate manner.
Raising the back edge of the hood changes the way it "folds" (or more accurately doesn't fold like it should) in a frontal collision and the so-modified hood could easily be driven back through the windshield, cutting the front seat occupant(s) in half........
Oh, don't tell me that can't happen. Several years ago there was a huge lawsuit against an aftermarket sheet metal supplier when one of the hoods they supplied (for a Honda) came back through the windshield and cut the driver in half (pretty much killing him on the spot) instead of folding up like a factory hood would have, preventing it from intruding into the passenger compartment.
On the other hand water falls, through horizontal hood vents, right onto critical bits in the engine compartment.
Vents placed on the vertical surfaces of the fenders, behind the wheels, would be protected from direct water intrusion. If those vents were ducted with blowers in a manner that would draw hot air out of the engine compartment they would do at least as well as passive vents on the hood surface and the compartment would stay dry. The blowers could be switched on, as needed, easily.
By the way, I belive that it is not at all a good idea to raise the back edge of the hood as posted above.
The hood plays a vital roll in a frontal collision and it is designed and attached to the body in a very deliberate manner.
Raising the back edge of the hood changes the way it "folds" (or more accurately doesn't fold like it should) in a frontal collision and the so-modified hood could easily be driven back through the windshield, cutting the front seat occupant(s) in half........
Oh, don't tell me that can't happen. Several years ago there was a huge lawsuit against an aftermarket sheet metal supplier when one of the hoods they supplied (for a Honda) came back through the windshield and cut the driver in half (pretty much killing him on the spot) instead of folding up like a factory hood would have, preventing it from intruding into the passenger compartment.
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- Thread starter
- #60
I agree on the safety factor of the hood lift above.
However, if hood vents were an issue for allowing water onto "critical bits in the engine compartment", then Subaru would be out of business, and about a dozen of us here in the 80s section would be experiencing problems along with all of you that allow rain into your engine compartment through the front grill and underside, and lets not forget those that forge streams.
Fortunately, there's nothing to this unless you have dilapidated wiring without insulation or other issues that would rear there ugly heads reagrdless of a small amount of rain entering your engine compartment.
This wive's tale was covered here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/278155-pardon-me-while-i-vent-my-hood.html
That being said, I always love to see new ideas, and anything with additional fans/blowers sounds cool.
However, if hood vents were an issue for allowing water onto "critical bits in the engine compartment", then Subaru would be out of business, and about a dozen of us here in the 80s section would be experiencing problems along with all of you that allow rain into your engine compartment through the front grill and underside, and lets not forget those that forge streams.
Fortunately, there's nothing to this unless you have dilapidated wiring without insulation or other issues that would rear there ugly heads reagrdless of a small amount of rain entering your engine compartment.
This wive's tale was covered here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/278155-pardon-me-while-i-vent-my-hood.html
That being said, I always love to see new ideas, and anything with additional fans/blowers sounds cool.
