Coolant System Questions

[MatthewMcD]

This was the weekend to flush and pull the radiator. Then attend to any and all rust that I found. Replacing all the coolant hoses too. Fresh coat of paint on the Fan, Shroud, and Radiator Frame. Still deciding if I am going to venture further into the plugged engine block drain hole or if I button it up with distilled water for a while and run it without a thermostat. I am thinking that in a week or two I can "uncork" it and watch the river flow. Or deal with it then.

I have removed rust and repainted.
Question #1: Is there an easy source for the rubber grommets on the Radiator Frame Stays?

Question #2: What does this port on the water pump usually connect to? In this photo it's plugged.

Last question #3, what is the cloth/fabric material I am finding between the chassis and parts like the radiator frame? I always find massive pitting and rust underneath. I have been replacing it with similar thickness sheet rubber as it won't degrade and does not hold water. Thoughts?

As always, thanks in advance!

 

[Green Bean]

If I recall correctly, the cushion under the radiator is NLA; as are the ones that go under the fuel tank (77652-60010). However, I believe that the battery tray cushion 9095004010 is similar in size and shape.

 

[igotta40]

I threw away those rust magnets decades ago. I replaced it with scraps of conveyor belt fabric and never had an issue since.

 

[plink01]

I believe you can still get the rubbers genuine.
I just replaced mine last week with genuine I bought a while back.

Before I had the genuine ones I used rubber grommets that you would use for pushing through wires through a firewall.
They worked pretty good. You can get em from any auto parts shop.

I'm sorry, I didn't take a photo of the part number but this is what the genuine ones looked like. They come with the steel sleeve too.

I kept those cloth spacer things and soaked them in dish soap for a day or so and they came up really good.

The little rubbers would be a good project for @ToyotaMatt to cook up in his skunk workz!

 

[MatthewMcD]

If I recall correctly, the cushion under the radiator is NLA; as are the ones that go under the fuel tank (77652-60010). However, I believe that the battery tray cushion 9095004010 is similar in size and shape.

View attachment 3657509
View attachment 3657511

I found rubber gasket material the same thickness. So far that is working very well.

Any thoughts on the water pump port?

 

[MatthewMcD]

I believe you can still get the rubbers genuine.
I just replaced mine last week with genuine I bought a while back.

Before I had the genuine ones I used rubber grommets that you would use for pushing through wires through a firewall.
They worked pretty good. You can get em from any auto parts shop.

I'm sorry, I didn't take a photo of the part number but this is what the genuine ones looked like. They come with the steel sleeve too.


View attachment 3657647


I kept those cloth spacer things and soaked them in dish soap for a day or so and they came up really good.

The little rubbers would be a good project for @ToyotaMatt to cook up in his skunk workz!

Thanks for the pictures. I found the parts.
4 X Cushion - Toyota (90540-10022)
2 X Tube - Toyota (90440-11043)

 

[rainingagain]

If I recall correctly, the cushion under the radiator is NLA; as are the ones that go under the fuel tank (77652-60010). However, I believe that the battery tray cushion 9095004010 is similar in size and shape.

View attachment 3657509
View attachment 3657511

Yep, the originals were square, part #52321-55010, and NLA. No clue when they were superseded by 90950-04010 but that one is the same width and thickness but about 1 inch longer. I left them as is for the rad support and cut the battery ones down to squares. Then soaked them thoroughly in fluid film.

I found rubber gasket material the same thickness. So far that is working very well.

Any thoughts on the water pump port?

That port would be for the heater I believe.

 

[77mustard40]

If it were me, I’d dive into that blocked drain. Who knows how much crud is the block passages that’s going to impact the cooling system. It’s not going to break free on it own and I wouldn’t want it to and clog my radiator.

 

[pb4ugo]

If it were me, I’d dive into that blocked drain. Who knows how much crud is the block passages that’s going to impact the cooling system. It’s not going to break free on it own and I wouldn’t want it to and clog my radiator.

^^^^^^^THIS^^^^^^^

There's about 50 yrs of rust sediment in the bottom of your blocks cooling passages. Get a pick and start probing the rust in the hole.

 

[MatthewMcD]

If it were me, I’d dive into that blocked drain. Who knows how much crud is the block passages that’s going to impact the cooling system. It’s not going to break free on it own and I wouldn’t want it to and clog my radiator.

That's my plan. I am working on version 2 of my super deluxe roto-rooter to slip into the port and release the crud. It's slow going but I am making some headway.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Yep, the originals were square, part #52321-55010, and NLA. No clue when they were superseded by 90950-04010 but that one is the same width and thickness but about 1 inch longer. I left them as is for the rad support and cut the battery ones down to squares. Then soaked them thoroughly in fluid film.



That port would be for the heater I believe.

Mine has a tee (shown in the lower left of the photo) that has a valve to the heater. Is one or the other "non-standard"?

Maybe an oil cooler?

 

[plink01]

Cleaning my shed I just found another kit. It comes with 2 grommets and the metal sleeve. I cant remember if I bought it from Toyota or a online shop.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Finally coerced the cock fitting off. Digging around inside the engine block now. Does anyone know which way I should be concentrating my effort? The top makes sense if this is supposed to be the low point for the drain, but this stuff is so impacted it's hard to tell if I am making any headway. (Think Prisoner of Alcatraz, but rather than digging with a spoon, I have a bent coat hanger.)

Any directional guidance would be appreciated.

 

[Green Bean]

I think that I tried without success using various picks and whatnot. I finally resorted to using a small drill bit and opened it up enough to get a trickle. After that it was significantly easier to work around the hole gradually opening it up. I found this thread useful in that the poster measured 1-1/4". I didn't go anywhere near that deep but it was comforting to know that I had that much room. I think that I put a piece of tape on the drill bit to use as a depth gauge.

 

[MatthewMcD]

I think that I tried without success using various picks and whatnot. I finally resorted to using a small drill bit and opened it up enough to get a trickle. After that it was significantly easier to work around the hole gradually opening it up. I found this thread useful in that the poster measured 1-1/4". I didn't go anywhere near that deep but it was comforting to know that I had that much room. I think that I put a piece of tape on the drill bit to use as a depth gauge.

Thanks, I saw that thread too and used the tape. I noticed that I was making better headway at the top. I used the wire from a surveyors flag and made this nifty drill. I slipped it through a short piece of 1/4" copper to protect the threads. I managed to drill into it at a 45 degree angle up for about an inch.

I had just started to enlarge that hole with a steel punch when my wife came out to ask if I was going to have lunch. I gave the puch a big shove and unleashed a torrent of water! I told her "Yes! I am ready for lunch!".

After lunch I reverted back to my roto rooter and ran it about 12" into the block. Then I ran another bucket of fresh water into the lower thermostat housing and spun the drill while I pulled the cable out. 3 more flushes and I got clean water.

Tomorrow I'll reassemble everything and fill it with fresh water for a week or so to flush it out and leak check. Once I am certain the rust is gone I'll fill it with the good stuff.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Have you any chemical radiator type flush? When trying to remove crud, distilled water does a much better job of leaching crap than tap water.

 

[pb4ugo]

Congratulations. You should always use distilled water in the cooling system. Tap water has too many impurities in it.

 

[77mustard40]

Thanks, I saw that thread too and used the tape. I noticed that I was making better headway at the top. I used the wire from a surveyors flag and made this nifty drill. I slipped it through a short piece of 1/4" copper to protect the threads. I managed to drill into it at a 45 degree angle up for about an inch.
View attachment 3660983

I had just started to enlarge that hole with a steel punch when my wife came out to ask if I was going to have lunch. I gave the puch a big shove and unleashed a torrent of water! I told her "Yes! I am ready for lunch!".

After lunch I reverted back to my roto rooter and ran it about 12" into the block. Then I ran another bucket of fresh water into the lower thermostat housing and spun the drill while I pulled the cable out. 3 more flushes and I got clean water.
View attachment 3660990

Tomorrow I'll reassemble everything and fill it with fresh water for a week or so to flush it out and leak check. Once I am certain the rust is gone I'll fill it with the good stuff.

Excellent! I’ve used Thermocure with decent results, one bottle mixed with distilled water. Run it for a day and flush again, repeat with distilled only and run it for a day. If that drains clean then you’re ready for coolant. Also make sure your heater is on the whole time to flush it as well.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Have you any chemical radiator type flush? When trying to remove crud, distilled water does a much better job of leaching crap than tap water.

Yep, I saved some from the last flush. I’ll do distilled water and Thermocure for a while and get the rest of the rust out.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Got it mostly reassembled and plan to finish it up in the next few days. The upper thermostat housing bolts are too short so I did a test fit. The previous thermostat did not have the top o-ring seal. I am correcting that.

Got rid of the rust on so many different parts. Decided to go red on the fan. Special Thank You to Manny at CCOT for sourcing the new radiator hoses that all fit perfectly.