Coolant in Oil in 2B engine: how to proceed methodically? (1 Viewer)

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Hi All,

Forgive me if this is already out there (I've searched the past 20 min.), but I'd like to get advice on how to proceed in fixing this problem.

I did an oil change recently and had an oil sample sent in to Blackstone. They said I had a not-so-minor amount of coolant in the oil (I think it was 42 ppm) and advised me to send in another sample when I get another 1600 miles on the BJ41.

I know that the main culprit of coolant in oil is likely a problem with the head gasket, but I'd like to get a list of other items I should look/check for before going straight for the nuclear option of taking the head off.

Also, if it is in fact the head gasket that needs to be replaced, I'd be grateful in getting a reference or two for where to buy a re-build kit. I'm 'okay' at doing work on engines, but changing out a head gasket would be a step up for me, and I'd also need to get some good instructions. If there happens to be any retired or bored (haha) diesel mechanics or guys who have done this before in the Tampa/St.Pete area, I'd definitely reciprocate with a steak dinner and beers, or equivalent. Heck, I'd even throw a sight-seeing tour along the coast in my Bonanza if I get some hand-holding on this project. I just don't want to be 'that guy' who ruins an otherwise usable, nice, old engine that has plenty of life in it. I like making things last a long time.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
 
Do they have an oil cooler on the side of the engine that is cooled by coolant? If the coolant has entered via the head, it could be a cracked or warped head, this will require more than a gasket. Was the engine over heated? How many klms has the engine done?
First thing I would get would be a factory manual and start familarising yourself with the job
 
on the tiny Toy engines, it can also be a timing belt wearing thru the water pump housing. where does your belt go on a diesel?
 
These are driven by gears AFAIK
 
Do they have an oil cooler on the side of the engine that is cooled by coolant? If the coolant has entered via the head, it could be a cracked or warped head, this will require more than a gasket. Was the engine over heated? How many klms has the engine done?
First thing I would get would be a factory manual and start familarising yourself with the job

No oil cooler to the best of my knowledge. It came over from Japan a year or so ago and although it only has about 80k kms on it, the truck seems to have been used pretty rough - almost like in a mining or industry environment. So, certainly, it could have been over heated, I just don't have any conclusive evidence.

I've been watching YouTube videos all day on removing heads and replacing gaskets, and getting components machined if needed, so I'm gaining knowledge.

Real question: What's the worst thing or two I can do while doing this job? I'll give it a go, but I want to know where the landmines are.
 
There are many landmines. Assuming the problem is the head and/or gasket, the head (and block) needs to flat before it goes back on , or you will have the problem again. It also needs to be checked for cracks. You need quality tools and quality parts. And of course it needs to be reassembled correctly. Failure of any one of these points will be a landmine.
My greatest fear when doing these types of jobs is snapping decades old studs that are fatigued or damaged by someone else. So you need contingency plans as well.
I would get a manual, read it and come back and ask about the steps you dont understand.
 
Are you actually losing coolant? Because at 42ppm .. assuming 10L of oil, you've got 0.42ml of coolant in your oil.
 
Thats equivalent to 8 drops from an eye dropper or 1/10 of a teaspoon
 
I have a 2B engine manual if you're interested. My coolant was disappearing and so I realized it was going out the tail pipe. I learned that my 2B lacked the oil cooler on the side like a 3b, but there are still possible places for the oil and coolant to commingle in there. The head is the obvious place though. I also happen to have a 2b gasket kit that I intended on using, but didn't. There are other things to think about if you remove the head like precups. I've had good luck getting parts from partsouq.com, resource for #'s toyodiy.
 
And when you do that, loosen slightly, then torque down to break the “seal” of possible corrosion on the bolt head.
 
That's some good advice. It's a good habit to back off the bolt 45 degrees or so then torque to speck in one consistant swing.

When you remove your rocker arms I'd grab the push rods and separate each one from its ball in the rocker cus if it sticks to the rocker it can and end up pulling the lifter itself out of its bore. You then have to take the side cover off to reseat them. Can save yourself a major hassle by keeping the lifters in place. This is a lesson that is much more fun to learn by reading as oppose to doing. Like most things in life I suppose.
 
I have just resolved a similar issue on a 12H-T. There are six core plugs in the head. Four on the side of the block behind pushrod covers. If any of these leak, they leak internally into crankcase. 3rd from the back in the head was leaking. Some pictures attached. Replaced all core plugs in head and behind pushrod covers. I drained oil at home and saw evidence. Decided to refill with oil and drive 20kms to workshop and oil was mayonaise by the time we drained the next morning.

Core plug No 3.jpg


Core plug No 3.jpg


Drained oil.jpg


Drained oil at workshop.jpg


Core plug No 3 replaced.jpg
 
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And while we were in there, fixed up other minor oil leaks. Sump came off in the investigations so got cleaned up and resealed. Pushrod covers got new sealant. Tappet cover got a new gasket. Replaced front crankshaft seal too. I have also just replaced the A440F with a H55F and she is running sweetly!
 
:hmm:Not sure, but I’d guess that question was directed at the OP. Seems @Entitled Hound may be busy with other things.
 
Typically when a head gasket leak occurs and you get water in your oil you also get oil in your water via the same failed part. It communicated both ways. Under running conditions the oil pressure is highest and pushes into the coolant but when the truck is shut off and the oil pressure drops to zero the coolant is still under pressure for a short time till it cools off and pushes back into the oil. If it's not doing both then I suspect it's not related to the head gasket or the oil cooler for that matter. Given its like an undetectable amount I would thing yould be able to see it with the naked eye.
 
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