Coolant flow and heat delete question (1 Viewer)

[Rabango]

Hey there. How does the coolant flow? Trying to delete all my heat because leaks.

I attached some pics and I'm wondering if I can route hose #1 to the #7 pipe?
Ill plug the T on the driver's side at #8.

If I understand the coolant flow, which Im not sure I do, would introducing hot coolant from #1 to where it should be cooled at #7 cause my truck to run hot?

Thanks fam

 

[OSS]

You need to plug hose 6, 7 and 8.
Every coolant line is under pressure whether it's a flow or return line

 

[Rabango]

You need to plug hose 6, 7 and 8.
Every coolant line is under pressure whether it's a flow or return line

Thanks! You saying to plug 8 and the 6/7 rubber hose to pipe
Wouldn't this still allow coolant to the heater core thru #1. Trying to avoid this.

 

[aviafx]

You could plug the 8, run 1 with a longer hose down to 7 hardline.

Your photo numbers are correct:
Coolant enters the dash core through 1 and 2, then returns through 3,6, and 7.
Coolant enters the rear heater through 8 and 5, then returns through 4 and 6.

You might see a minimal temp increase, but when the heater valve is closed coolant isn't flowing through the dash core loop anyway. I think it's safe to say many of us have deleted the rear heater and haven't had issues with it, at least that's evident here on mud!

 

[Rabango]

You might see a minimal temp increase, but when the heater valve is closed coolant isn't flowing through the dash core loop anyway. I think it's safe to say many of us have deleted the rear heater and haven't had issues with it, at least that's evident here on mud!

Here’s a common plug that works for #8:

My man! Great point. Gonna run it. Thanks much

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Hey there. How does the coolant flow? Trying to delete all my heat because leaks.

I attached some pics and I'm wondering if I can route hose #1 to the #7 pipe?
Ill plug the T on the driver's side at #8.

You could plug the 8, run 1 with a longer hose down to 7 hardline.

Your photo numbers are correct
Coolant enters the dash core through 1 and 2, then returns through 3,6, and 7.
Coolant enters the rear heater through 8 and 5, then returns through 4 and 6.

You might see a minimal temp increase, but when the heater valve is closed coolant isn't flowing through the dash core loop anyway. I think it's safe to say many of us have deleted the rear heater and haven't had issues with it, at least that's evident here on mud!

Here’s a common plug that works for #8:

View attachment 2267540
View attachment 2267541

If I understand the coolant flow, which Im not sure I do, would introducing hot coolant from #1 to where it should be cooled at #7 cause my truck to run hot?

Thanks fam

View attachment 2267465

View attachment 2267466

Hey there. How does the coolant flow? Trying to delete all my heat because leaks.

I attached some pics and I'm wondering if I can route hose #1 to the #7 pipe?
Ill plug the T on the driver's side at #8.

If I understand the coolant flow, which Im not sure I do, would introducing hot coolant from #1 to where it should be cooled at #7 cause my truck to run hot?

Thanks fam

View attachment 2267465

View attachment 2267466

You need to plug hose 6, 7 and 8.
Every coolant line is under pressure whether it's a flow or return line

Hello rabango , Matt here

I have another suggestion that only involves

3. OeM Toyota genuine parts :

- oil cooler size OEM Rubber delete cap

- OEM double wire hose clamp

- and the unicorn . A. NOS factory cylinder
Head water jacket delete plug

- u simply remove the Christmas’s. Water tower completely on drivers side cylinder Head and plug the head itself

- the remove #. 6 and cap the oil-cooler tube off delete cap

simple , safe ,permanent done !

- I would like to make you a offer. :

I will trade you these needed. 3 toyota genuine parts 1 NOS deteteplug

- for the removed carefully and in one piece
Coolant tower Christmas’s tree as a whole unit


I can have myparts in mail. Tommorow

Let me know how I can help

Thanks Matt

 

[ToyotaMatt]

 

[John Staton]

Here, just follow this. I am in Texas and dont need a heater so deleted I did mine a while back and this thread has pretty good pics to help you figure it out. My suggestions: dont stress out on getting a perfectly bent hose....you can just use regular hose, and replace the block connection with a barb fitting. Good luck.

FJ60 rear heater delete

So in the middle of my new carpet install and had looked at taking the heater our to make it easier. Ordered new hoses, etc... and then I ran across some threads that mentioned deleting the rear heater altogether. I am in Texas and in the winter we drop down into the 60s for a couple weeks so I...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[cruisermatt]

I think OP is wanting to delete the dash heater too.. In which case I would plug the cyl. head, and you could cap off the steel tubing (#7 in your pics), but for a cleaner end result I would actually take the lower radiator hose union out and weld the small outlet, or replace the whole thing with a pipe without an outlet. I think it's 1.5" so it should be easy to find a universal piece. A bit more work but you eliminate several connections.

 

[Spike Strip]

In the South American markets where the trucks did not come (standard) with heaters, those ports on the head were plugged with the plug Matt shows (the water pump is also different).

Now I may be wrong here (not the 1st time), but supposedly the rear of the head runs a bit hot(er) and that's why we see so many HG failures between the #s 4/5/6 cylinders...

Since the Water Pump forces coolant into the front of the block, then it moves to the rear, then is forced into the rear head through the large holes in the HG, and then towards the thermostat, does it not make sense that if that head port is left open and coolant is allowed to move to the oil cooler, or straight back to lower rad hose union (with heater valve delete) isn't that adding another circuit and some additional cooling (coolant movement) to the rear of the head ?

Just a guess

 

[cruisermatt]

Now I may be wrong here (not the 1st time), but supposedly the rear of the head runs a bit hot(er) and that's why we see so many HG failures between the #s 4/5/6 cylinders...

The way you worded this makes it sound like 2F head gasket failures are commonplace.

 

[Spike Strip]

Well, to clarify, what I meant was the preponderance of HG failures seems to be between the rear cylinders, not that there's generally a lot of HG failures on 2Fs.

 

[Rabango]

Thanks @ToyotaMatt but I'm just after a temporary bypass so I can keep driving while I repair or replace some parts some parts.

Here, just follow this. I am in Texas and dont need a heater so deleted I did mine a while back and this thread has pretty good pics to help you figure it out. My suggestions: dont stress out on getting a perfectly bent hose....you can just use regular hose, and replace the block connection with a barb fitting. Good luck.

FJ60 rear heater delete

So in the middle of my new carpet install and had looked at taking the heater our to make it easier. Ordered new hoses, etc... and then I ran across some threads that mentioned deleting the rear heater altogether. I am in Texas and in the winter we drop down into the 60s for a couple weeks so I...

forum.ih8mud.com

I think OP is wanting to delete the dash heater too.. In which case I would plug the cyl. head, and you could cap off the steel tubing (#7 in your pics), but for a cleaner end result I would actually take the lower radiator hose union out and weld the small outlet, or replace the whole thing with a pipe without an outlet. I think it's 1.5" so it should be easy to find a universal piece. A bit more work but you eliminate several connections.

Yeah deleting all the heat as its starting to leak i'm going to do just this but in a more temporary way. Plug the cylinder head and the lower radiator union hose.
I'm going to need heat again in a few months but its low on the list at this point.

Thanks for the replies guys