Coolant consumption (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Marshpete
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bloc
SILVER Star
I assume you’ve already looked at the top of the radiator for obvious signs of leakage...
Check the area under the water pump pulley for a white/pink crust. Also the back/inside of the pulley with a mirror.
If there is no leak in that spot I’m afraid you might be looking at an oil cooler cover plate leak in the valley under the intake manifold.
Check the area under the water pump pulley for a white/pink crust. Also the back/inside of the pulley with a mirror.
If there is no leak in that spot I’m afraid you might be looking at an oil cooler cover plate leak in the valley under the intake manifold.
Try a new PCV valve. Very easy to change.
bloc
SILVER Star
It happens often enough that it’s on the list of places to look. There is a foam block around your PCV valve.. if you push that aside you can get a peek at the area but it’s difficult to get a good look.
For coolant usage?
The "overflow" coolant tank level needs to be down when the motor is cold so that there is room for expansion. If you top it off cold it will merely pump out onto the ground when the motor reaches temperature. Or perhaps I misunderstand your question.
pismojim
the Dude abides...
2011, 124K miles, similar symptoms, found the cover plate leaking in the valley under the intake manifold.
- Thread starter
- #8
Thanks guys. I checked it cold. At the L mark. Checked at Operating temp it was at F. I think I’ll look around the Valve and see but I think everything is ok. Someone mention that adding half a quarter/ or filling reservoir a year isn’t an issue. I have heard a closed system shouldn’t lose volume. Any thoughts on that?
bloc
SILVER Star
For a leak that slow I'd be looking for dried evidence of the leak instead.
My radiator appears to be fine but I have been getting the distinct antifreeze smell every time I pull the vehicle into my garage along with a slow small loss of fluid and I cant track it down....that cover plate leak above by pismojim scares me, how long did that take to rpl?
Yes book time for non warranty is 3 hours. It is a .1 add to remove the oil cooler itself. The water pump is 3.6-3.9. I have a friend who owns an independent shop and had him look it up to give me an idea on how long it should take. I used to pull wrenches for a living and expect to be close to book time. I usually spend a little extra time cleaning and inspecting parts. Not to mention my shop is not set up like a pro shop.
I looked all over my engine bay again and still cant find any signs of leakage, I can smell it each time I pull in my garage...starting to think this is the culprit. I assume there is no easy way to look under under the intake manifold?
bloc
SILVER Star
If you look on the front driver's side of the intake plenum there will be a small rubber hose going out then pointing down to a plastic valve with a hex on top. That's your PCV valve. It is relatively easy to pull this valve and push the foam insulator aside to have a look in the area. It probably won't give you a complete view.. part of the PCV system is in the way, let alone getting to the back... but the front pink puddle in the above image should be visible. if you see pink stuff at all it's definitely the source.
The rear would likely require removing the manifold.
Note that PCV valves do clog and cause oil consumption, and a new original toyota is pretty cheap. Might be a good opportunity to replace it while you are in there. PN 12204-38010 for all years of 200-series LC or LX. Needs a deep 21 or 22mm socket.. can't remember which.
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It does look like my heat exchanger is leaking and is now bad enough that it completely floods that area in the engine V. It has now progressed to the point that I have coolant leaking down the back of the engine and exiting where the engine and transmission connect. I called my local Toyota service shop and they quoted 8 hours and $1200 seems quite high compared to the hours and amount others have posted.
