My bad. I meant CT12b not CT26.
Yeah, I am sure you'll find something, they are easy and cheap to rebuild if necessary.
I just updated my 80s post here
Compound Turbos on a 2nd Edition B Engine (2 Viewers)
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I just updated my 80s post here
Ct26 were also used on Supra and other petrol Toyotas. There's several versions, several different turbine housings.
Search "the gturbo alternative tech" thread for Mellett turbos spec sheets I posted. They list most the different ct26 specs and what vehicle they were on.
Low boost isn't always your friend.
Lots of 1HZs that did prematurely after being poorly turboed. Low boost and excess fuel equals high combustion temperatures, high EGTs.
Leads to cracked heads and overheating.
More boost without excess fuel helps keep EGTs under control.
Boost around 15psi let's you add fuel, and make the most of the extra fuel with cleaner more efficient combustion.
IDI turboed 1hz cope with a lot of boost. If the engine is in sound condition when turboed, it's heat in the head that kills them.
If your turbo choice is good, and the turbo is working in its efficient range, then intercooling is of little benefit below 14psi, there'll be some benefit, but it comes into its own as boost gets above 14psi
bsweaty
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totally accurate. well, the voice of reason has stuck. here's my plan forward, two scenarios:
1. Because the 1988+ B platform is fairly universal, I can direct inject my motor with parts from 11b, 13b, and 14b motors: crank, pistons, head, injectors, injection pump(rebuild with adjustments). this is cheaper than buying a new motor, weirdly.
2. I have been chatting with Alberto on these forums about sourcing a 15BFT engine. will cost about double direct injecting my motor will cost, but will take 1/4 the time.
Worst idea I have seen on mud in a while.
Any due diligence on your part researching this should yield the same conclusion.
All of your ideas are terrible. Sorry if your feelings are hurt. Listen to the more experienced members here and install a direct injected engine if you want more power from your van. The idea of making a DI out of your engine is not realistic. I'm not sure how your price comparisons are computed, but you don't seem to be mechanically experienced to come to your conclusions. Apologies for being blunt.
bsweaty
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I appreciate your feedback. No part of me is hurt. I am genuinely on a journey learning about Toyota diesels. Coming from the Cummins world, I have a ton to learn.
Your attitude here is less than ideal. I’m sorry if your home life is hard or internal state is tough on you and your outlet are people on the internet in car forums. Your comments here clearly show your suffering.
I run men’s groups and circles in the Tetons focused on getting men to open up. If you need someone to chat with, or a therapist recommendation in your area I’m more than happy to help. I hope you find the peace you need brother.
* You will not be able to source the parts to make your engine DI.
* If you were to find the parts (essentially a whole engine) the cost to import it and build it would far exceed the cost of a 15bft.
* If you were to find the parts (essentially a whole engine) the cost to import it and build it would far exceed the cost of a 15bft.
You're not far off. In my line of work I deal with allegedly smart people (engineers) making stupid decisions on various military systems. I have to be nice to them. This situation is similar in that they also do not have real world experience. We have a running joke in the office of a statement that I have heard many times "Well it worked in the lab". I feel like I can be blunt here when I have to be nice to my fellow "senior" engineers at work. All that said I have the best job and home life in the world. Again I apologize for being so blunt.
Reasons this won't end well.
I have sized compound turbo sets for many people. You need a flow range of 1.5x on compressor and 2x on turbine to work well. Otherwise the turbines starve each other of pressure difference.
The CT12B by itself is a good turbo for your engine. Set it to 12psi and to run clean and go drive.
- Your engine isn't strong enough to take the cylinder pressures or crank loads.
- Your turbos are too close in size (flow) on compressor and turbine.
- Your injection pump won't have enough fuel.
I have sized compound turbo sets for many people. You need a flow range of 1.5x on compressor and 2x on turbine to work well. Otherwise the turbines starve each other of pressure difference.
The CT12B by itself is a good turbo for your engine. Set it to 12psi and to run clean and go drive.
HA!! He was right to page me, I am an expert at blowing up non-turbo B series engines with turbos. By expert I mean I have done it twice before I gave up and swapped an Isuzu 4BD1T into my troopy... much better fit.Paging @theglobb!I wonder what, if any, the differences are between the bottom end of the 3B vs the DI turbo B engines. Broken cranks on turbo 3B's seem to be a trend.
You might get away with boosting a 3B in a lighter vehicle, but in a heavy platform like a 4WD Dyna with big tires it will be highly overstressed and prone to overheating and causing engine damage, like cracked precups, cracked head, broken crank, etc.
I would highly recommend looking at getting one of the DI B engines, preferably a turbo version, to swap in. Would save lots of headache and possibly be cheaper in the long run vs trying to build out a 3B.
@AirheadNut is correct, I was following the directions of many of people who had turbo'd their 40 series with a 3B in them. Was pushing about 10-15psi of boost (20psi if I pulled as hard as possible in low range in the sand) through a healthy 3B, made it like 25,000 miles and then my crankshaft blew in half, wasn't even doing anything crazy just driving down the highway with 8psi and it started knocking. Drove it from NC to CA and everywhere in between. Definitely helped at higher altitudes and keeping EGT's. Wasn't much faster by any means, I think my 0-60 went from 1 minute 22 seconds to 1 minute LOL!
I never let the EGT's go over 1200f and my water temps stayed at 210f most of the time, however when I drove it through the Mojave when it was 122 degrees outside, the water temp did get up to 235f... but then I put 15,000 miles on it after that happened. Water temp on average before I turbo'd it was 190-195f and after like I said was 205-210f. After my 1st one blew up I swapped another one it, put 200 miles on it and it blew up aswell.
Regardless I can't in good faith recommend turboing any B series engine that isn't meant to be turbo'd. However maybe you will be fine, just giving my experience. If you do turbo it just make sure you start saving funds for a different engine! It'll happen at some point, hopefully later than sooner.
Just took the block of my 1st 3B to the scrap yard 4 days ago, you can see in the video below the section of the crank still left in there haha
Just for information, don't be tempted by a cheap 15B-FTE - they need all the associated electrical sensors and controllers and would be a major project to install. There's no easy way to convert an -FTE to mechanical injection, so be sure you know what you're buying.
3b noob here. Been reading and learning for the past year, also forced into an informal engine overhaul. I do have a turbo, and I think the broken crank problem might be mitigated by retarding injection timing. These engines have a lot of compression and therefore cylinder pressure, so if you run a turbo, backing the injection timing off a bit can reduce the strain on the crank. I would never try to run more than 15psi either.
