coils (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jun 22, 2004
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sittin on the couch in UT
anyone running coil suspension up front and soa in the rear. anything you would do different and if you got pics would love it, looking into proffits coilsprings any info would be greatly appreciated. :cheers:
 
I don't know of anyone running that setup but 76FJ40 on this board runs a coiled rear using aerostar coils with a wishbone 3 link and a SOA front and it is sick. I got to drive it for a little while last weekend through a rockgarden and I was very impressed.

Why not coil the rear first. It is much easier since you don't have to deal with the steering. I am just finishing my SOA and when I am ready for coils I will do the rear first and may not even deal with the front.
 
niner has his setup that way...front suspension is pretty old school, but it works well.

a search on his username might net ya some pics....I don't have any offhand....front is a 4-link with panhard...
 
I have a bj70 that we coiled the front SOA the rear! front was three link using a range of bits we had, not real happy with the overall handling on the street thou!!!! Now five linking the front using 80 series 4inch springs and factory upper spring towers, custom arms(adjustable with 360 degree swivels-no bind!!). The rear was standard springs(real flat-awesome travel) now four linking the rear using adjustable upper and lower arms, and maybe($$$$) king coil-overs will post some pics soon.
 
The route I'm going is coil spring/4 link rear...SOA front. That seems to work out very well on most of the cruisers I have seen. A pretty balanced setup.

Look at the J*&Ps...the cherokee's have the Coil front/leaf rear...the fronts flex like crazy and the rears don't seem to flex anywhere as well.
 
I like the idea of stability coming from the front, that is why leafs up front is nice, Coils in the back seem to compliment well.
 
When I 4 linked the front 13 years ago there wasn't much for info on doing the front of a vehicle.

When I redo the front end I intend to trianglate to help reduce some of the bump steer that happens while on the pavement, don't notice it in the dirt or gravel for that matter. In my opinion if you 4 link either end the opposite end should be a factory style setup or have some heviduty sway bars if you intend to drive it on the street.

I'll try to dig up some photos.
 
here's a couple but not very good detail
DSCF0006.JPG


DSCF0011.JPG
 
Another
209.jpg

Oops how'd that one get in there?
318.jpg

showing it does work.
265.jpg
 
I assume that's really a very stiff cable attached to the front of your cruiser and your actually pushing a Jeep out of the mud hole while pulling the mini behind you. :idea:
 
Niner - your bezel keeps flip-flopping! :D

Woody's cruiser was just protesting about having to go through the mud, like a dog that doesn't want to be walked. It dug in its heels (tires), and had to be drug through the mud..
 
Niner said:
When I 4 linked the front 13 years ago there wasn't much for info on doing the front of a vehicle.

When I redo the front end I intend to trianglate to help reduce some of the bump steer that happens while on the pavement, don't notice it in the dirt or gravel for that matter. In my opinion if you 4 link either end the opposite end should be a factory style setup or have some heviduty sway bars if you intend to drive it on the street.

I'll try to dig up some photos.

Can't see in your pictures, are you running a panhard rod on the front? If you are, make the panhard rod and drag link be the same length and run parallel to each other to eliminate your bump steer. Been through that. Went from not being able to reach 35mph without rolling the rig, the gas peddle and the brake peddle would directly steer the truck; to being able to accellerate, brake hard and hit pot holes with out having to hold onto the steering wheel.

gary
 
coiled40gary said:
Can't see in your pictures, are you running a panhard rod on the front? If you are, make the panhard rod and drag link be the same length and run parallel to each other to eliminate your bump steer. Been through that. Went from not being able to reach 35mph without rolling the rig, the gas peddle and the brake peddle would directly steer the truck; to being able to accellerate, brake hard and hit pot holes with out having to hold onto the steering wheel.

gary


Actually the pan hard and steering arm are the same length and parrallel, I belive it is caster now that is why it isn't noticable in the dirt.

To cut and turn now I would rather update with what I have learned, than recycle what I have.
 
you guys rock. i am in the process of making decisions and all this info helps. im looking for power steering components, what vehicle is good to hunt down and gut for this, i know use the search but im lazy. thanks guys
 
I used a box from a wagoneer '73 I think, and the pump that came with the motor which was a 400 ci from a '73 caprice. The hoses came from a '75 CJ5 with a 304 ci.
 
woody would have made that mud hole if he had the hawgs.....
 
despite that gooey mud, notice how clean the truck still is :D I'da had a chance if I'd done more than idle in....

While ya can't see niner's setup in the pics well, it's actually an interesting setup...the link runs from the steering box, to the factory centerarm (mounted on the passenger side) then back to the steering arm on the drivers side....the panhard runs from the PS frame to the DS axle housing...

odd I know, but it IS an old design....
 
that is why he has bump steer.
 

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