- Year
- 1993
- Vehicle Model
- 80 Series
- Mileage
- 207998
- Color
- red
Lots of new information, and a new, much lower price.
1993 HDJ80. VX trim. Left Hand Drive (i.e. “normal for here in the US). 1HD-t turbo diesel, full-time 4WD, automatic transmission, leather seats, third row, sunroof but no roof rack, ABS, Medium Red paint.
The good:
Optioned with locking differentials, headlight cleaners, and an original equipment PTO winch (mechanical, not electric).
Pretty much unmolested--no modifications—Still has the original radio/tape deck in it.
Well maintained, driven regularly and runs well.
Shows about 210,000 miles (and counting).
Comes with original owner's manual and maintenance records (in French, of course).
The motor runs fantastic—starts easily every time, no unusual smoke, no blowby, good power. It’s gotten me everywhere I’ve asked it to for over a year without fail.
Passed Colorado emissions and will come with a DR 2365 if the buyer is in Colorado and needs it. Colorado title in my name, currently registered and insured.
The only time I checked it, I was getting 22mpg on the highway (driving from California to Colorado).
I bought it from a guy in Bezac France who had owned it since 2009. He bought it from the original owner.
The less good:
It’s a 32 year old landcruiser, so yes, there are a few things that need attention:
I’ve recently noticed that it looks like the front inner axle seals are starting to leak, so those should be replaced. The birfields are fine (no clicking or anything), so would just need cleaning and repacking. Same goes for the bearings, though it’s not expensive to replace them. You’d need a weekend and about, what, a hundred bucks worth of seals, gaskets and grease to fix it.
The BEB’s. No, I haven’t done them, and I don’t have any record of the PO doing them,, so if you’re worried about them, you’d need to do them. Again, a weekend and maybe $100-ish in parts.
The wear indicators on the front brakes have just started squealing a little, so it would be time for new pads and have the rotors turned. If you’re going to be doing the inner axle seals (see above), you’ll have it all apart anyway.
Everything else is just typical “old 80” kind of stuff:
There’s a leak at the power steering reservoir. That usually means the seals have deteriorated. I’ve only had to top it off twice in a year, to give you an idea of how much fluid it’s losing.
Driver’s seat leather is torn. It’s under my ass when I’m driving, so I don’t see it and it doesn’t bother me. If it bothers you, seat covers would fix it nicely. Spector, Marathon, Escape Gear, and others make nice ones for a couple hundred bucks.
Driver’s seat adjuster not working. You can hear the motor buzzing, but the seat doesn’t move. I haven’t worried about it, since the seat is where I want it, but I’m pretty sure it’s just a worn out nylon gear in there that needs to be replaced.
Rear passenger power windows don’t go up or down. Probably a clean/lube/adjust kind of thing. I haven’t looked into it since I never sit back there.
“D” light on the dash doesn’t work. Needs a new bulb, so maybe a couple bucks and some time to tear into the dash.
Driver side mirror is wobbly. There’s a guy on IH8MUD selling a fix for cheap, or you can use parts from an old 4runner mirror to fix it. I just let it wobble and don’t really care.
Paint is OK but not showroom by any means. Leather could use rejuvenation. Wheels show oxidation but are original and complete with caps.
In light of all the above, I’m dropping the price from my original ask of $25k to now only $19,500. If you’re a DIY mechanic, you could certainly fix all that stuff for way less than the discount. You could probably have a shop do it for the amount of the discount.
If you write to ask me if the car is still available, I probably won’t reply. If the ad is up, the car is available. Take it as gospel.
If you ask me "how bad's the rust", I'll tell you that's pretty subjective. Someone in Detroit would probably say it has none. Someone in Arizona might think it has too much. I'd say it has some surface corrosion on parts of the chassis, but nothing is rotted or compromised at all. Only a couple small spots on the body where the paint has been damaged, but again, no rot or anything. Pretty decent in my eyes, but you'll need to decide for yourself.
If you write to ask me how low I’ll go or what my “best price” is, I’ll tell you my price is in the ad and I think it’s reasonable given the condition and rarity of the car.. If you want to come see and drive the car and make me an offer, you are most welcome.
1993 HDJ80. VX trim. Left Hand Drive (i.e. “normal for here in the US). 1HD-t turbo diesel, full-time 4WD, automatic transmission, leather seats, third row, sunroof but no roof rack, ABS, Medium Red paint.
The good:
Optioned with locking differentials, headlight cleaners, and an original equipment PTO winch (mechanical, not electric).
Pretty much unmolested--no modifications—Still has the original radio/tape deck in it.
Well maintained, driven regularly and runs well.
Shows about 210,000 miles (and counting).
Comes with original owner's manual and maintenance records (in French, of course).
The motor runs fantastic—starts easily every time, no unusual smoke, no blowby, good power. It’s gotten me everywhere I’ve asked it to for over a year without fail.
Passed Colorado emissions and will come with a DR 2365 if the buyer is in Colorado and needs it. Colorado title in my name, currently registered and insured.
The only time I checked it, I was getting 22mpg on the highway (driving from California to Colorado).
I bought it from a guy in Bezac France who had owned it since 2009. He bought it from the original owner.
The less good:
It’s a 32 year old landcruiser, so yes, there are a few things that need attention:
I’ve recently noticed that it looks like the front inner axle seals are starting to leak, so those should be replaced. The birfields are fine (no clicking or anything), so would just need cleaning and repacking. Same goes for the bearings, though it’s not expensive to replace them. You’d need a weekend and about, what, a hundred bucks worth of seals, gaskets and grease to fix it.
The BEB’s. No, I haven’t done them, and I don’t have any record of the PO doing them,, so if you’re worried about them, you’d need to do them. Again, a weekend and maybe $100-ish in parts.
The wear indicators on the front brakes have just started squealing a little, so it would be time for new pads and have the rotors turned. If you’re going to be doing the inner axle seals (see above), you’ll have it all apart anyway.
Everything else is just typical “old 80” kind of stuff:
There’s a leak at the power steering reservoir. That usually means the seals have deteriorated. I’ve only had to top it off twice in a year, to give you an idea of how much fluid it’s losing.
Driver’s seat leather is torn. It’s under my ass when I’m driving, so I don’t see it and it doesn’t bother me. If it bothers you, seat covers would fix it nicely. Spector, Marathon, Escape Gear, and others make nice ones for a couple hundred bucks.
Driver’s seat adjuster not working. You can hear the motor buzzing, but the seat doesn’t move. I haven’t worried about it, since the seat is where I want it, but I’m pretty sure it’s just a worn out nylon gear in there that needs to be replaced.
Rear passenger power windows don’t go up or down. Probably a clean/lube/adjust kind of thing. I haven’t looked into it since I never sit back there.
“D” light on the dash doesn’t work. Needs a new bulb, so maybe a couple bucks and some time to tear into the dash.
Driver side mirror is wobbly. There’s a guy on IH8MUD selling a fix for cheap, or you can use parts from an old 4runner mirror to fix it. I just let it wobble and don’t really care.
Paint is OK but not showroom by any means. Leather could use rejuvenation. Wheels show oxidation but are original and complete with caps.
In light of all the above, I’m dropping the price from my original ask of $25k to now only $19,500. If you’re a DIY mechanic, you could certainly fix all that stuff for way less than the discount. You could probably have a shop do it for the amount of the discount.
If you write to ask me if the car is still available, I probably won’t reply. If the ad is up, the car is available. Take it as gospel.
If you ask me "how bad's the rust", I'll tell you that's pretty subjective. Someone in Detroit would probably say it has none. Someone in Arizona might think it has too much. I'd say it has some surface corrosion on parts of the chassis, but nothing is rotted or compromised at all. Only a couple small spots on the body where the paint has been damaged, but again, no rot or anything. Pretty decent in my eyes, but you'll need to decide for yourself.
If you write to ask me how low I’ll go or what my “best price” is, I’ll tell you my price is in the ad and I think it’s reasonable given the condition and rarity of the car.. If you want to come see and drive the car and make me an offer, you are most welcome.
Last edited:
