Clutch slave nut figment issues

[hobbes]

I’m having clutch slave acorn nut fitment issues. The clutch fork is either a 1974 or 1975, I’m not sure which. I have the two acorn nuts below (one closed, one open). They both appear to push and lock into the clutch fork. I don’t think they are supposed to. The slave piston will then pop out and/or the slave rod bends. I know 1974 was a cut over year for the clutch setup, so that adds to the issue.

Is there are third option out there I’m missing? I think I need a fatter acorn nut maybe?

Thanks!

 

[hobbes]

Fitment issues, not figment. Stupid spell check.

 

[hobbes]

Maybe this one? Could I have a later fork?

 

[hobbes]

And one from the 1960s, if I have an earlier fork. Any sure way to tell?

 

[Dizzy]

Your slave and fork set-up looks like how I found both of my early '75s. With a little wear on the fork or nut, it looks like it will pop right thru. On the slave, the piston is dished and the slave push rod is half-spherical; so it probably won't bend much beyond the rubber boot. The later aftermarket option might be a better answer for the fork. I have to deal with the same thing after I get the motor on its mounts.

 

[hobbes]

In my first and second photos the acorn is wedged in. I had to pry it out. Maybe the 80s version of the slave/rod/acorn is a suitable substitute?

 

[Steamer]

I don’t know if mine is original but the fork on my 74 is stamped steel and where the closed acorn nut rides is just dished out. There’s no hole so it needs to be the closed acorn nut. Mine has never fallen out. The hole I would guess would be to accommodate the open nut and would give a larger range of adjustment.

Your fork looks cast, is it? Mine is stamped steel. The hole in yours just looks too big is and probably wore out. But I’m guessing.

 

[pbgbottle]

Do you have your old one. ?

 

[65swb45]

The hollow hex in your first post is what is supposed to work. If it binds, then the hole in your fork is not good.

And it will eventually snap the pushrod.

 

[hobbes]

Do you have your old one. ?

Unfortunately no.

 

[hobbes]

The hollow hex in your first post is what is supposed to work. If it binds, then the hole in your fork is not good.

And it will eventually snap the pushrod.

It definitely binds.

Will any FJ40 fork work on a 2F with a mid 70s bell housing? And is it possible to swap the fork without dropping the trans?

 

[hobbes]

It looks like a fork (PN 31204-60020 superseded to 31204-60030, 08/1974 - 07/1980) and ball (PN 31236-60020, 08/1974 - 07/1980) might still be available new. That surprises me if that’s true. I’ll try ordering those and a new slave to be safe.

 

[65swb45]

If @shelfboy1 says it can be done, I won’t say otherwise. But I have not done it, and I can think of a couple of times when I would have liked to.

 

[hobbes]

If @shelfboy1 says it can be done, I won’t say otherwise. But I have not done it, and I can think of a couple of times when I would have liked to.

Uh oh. Not good....

 

[BeerM3]

Good stuff! I learned a little about clutch fork differences AND, thanks to @hobbes photo, that there's supposed to be a boot over it ... The more you know, the more you know you don't know.

 

[hobbes]

Good stuff! I learned a little about clutch fork differences AND, thanks to @hobbes photo, that there's supposed to be a boot over it ... The more you know, the more you know you don't know.

Always great to learn you have issues you didn’t know about. For instance, I’ve now learned there are supposed to be clips on the end that I apparently never had. More good news....

I’ve got some long dowels I used to mate the engine and trans. Maybe those will help generate some space. It’ll be a couple weeks before I can attempt anything like this.

 

[Steamer]

Was just thinking of a repair to your fork. Even while in place. With some sort of bushing. First thing to come to mind would be the brass part out of a 1/2" dielectric union. Can't see it in the pic but the other end of the brass part has a flange on it. Seems like it would just drop right into your fork and be held in place by the nut. And you could use either open or closed nut. $5 at Home Depot. Just might be a quick easy fix even if its temporary.

 

[hobbes]

I was wonder about the 80s nut being a temp fix as well. I’ll see when I get everything in. I’ll do a shelf check at HD and see if something makes sense when I get time.

 

[hobbes]

Thanks! I already ordered, but if they can’t get it to me in a week or so I’ll cancel and hit you up.

I ordered two clips. I’m assuming I can put the clips on the hub I have. If not, I’m screwed and will probably have to half pull the motor to separate the trans. At least I literally just put the motor in. Discovered this issue on the maiden drive. No chance of rusty fasteners..so I’ve got that going for me.

 

[hobbes]

So I had a spare 15 minutes just now and figured I’d stare at it for a bit. Then I grabbed a 12mm wrench and was able to loosen and push back the nut holding on pivot. I was able to wiggle out the pivot by itself. Then I started wiggling on the fork. At first I thought “no way with my setup”. At least not without lowering the engine a bit (maybe remove rear mounts?) as the arm solidly hits the body. Then I went UP on the fork tines, twisted for a couple seconds, and was able to push the fork up and in. From there it dropped out!

Below is the offending fork. In the photos below I set in the pivot, slave pushrod, and correct acorn nut per Mark above. You can see how far it goes in. I’m assuming install will be more difficult since the parts will be less worn. I’m also clueless on the clips I appear to have never had. I’m guessing those go in the holes on the end to ensure the setup stays married to the bearing.