clutch slave and master cylinder (1 Viewer)

[Steve85]

I installed a new clutch master and slave cylinder in my 1973 FJ-43. Everything went well - except after l put DOT3 brake fluid and tried to bleed the system I still have no pressure. I did like I have done with brakes (no claim to being a mechanic) had my wife pump the clutch pedal then held it down and I open the bleed valve on the slave cylinder. We did it about a dozen times and still no pressure.

What the heck am I doing wrong?

 

[1911]

New line also? No leaks?

When I bled stuff the old-fashioned way with two people, I would open the bleed screw while the helper was pushing on the pedal, and then close it again before they got all the way down with the pedal, rinse and repeat.

Nowadays, I just use my Phoenix Systems reverse bleeder for an easy and perfect one-man job. Kind of an expensive tool, but way worth it if you're ever going to bleed anything again in the future.

Amazon product ASIN B00E6TXVJI

 

[brian]

The clutch is a simple system. Gravity bleeding is all it takes.

 

[Steve85]

Thanks! Just realized it way important that you open the bleed valve before my wife pushes in the pedal not after it is on the floor. Whoops - give a try in the AM

 

[Steve85]

what do you mean gravity bleeding. sound like you just leave the bleed valve open until the fluid runs out?

 

[brian]

Yup

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I installed a new clutch master and slave cylinder in my 1973 FJ-43. Everything went well - except after l put DOT3 brake fluid and tried to bleed the system I still have no pressure. I did like I have done with brakes (no claim to being a mechanic) had my wife pump the clutch pedal then held it down and I open the bleed valve on the slave cylinder. We did it about a dozen times and still no pressure.

What the heck am I doing wrong?

New line also? No leaks?

When I bled stuff the old-fashioned way with two people, I would open the bleed screw while the helper was pushing on the pedal, and then close it again before they got all the way down with the pedal, rinse and repeat.

Nowadays, I just use my Phoenix Systems reverse bleeder for an easy and perfect one-man job. Kind of an expensive tool, but way worth it if you're ever going to bleed anything again in the future.

Amazon product ASIN B00E6TXVJI

The clutch is a simple system. Gravity bleeding is all it takes.

@brian is spot on here and this method show below in detail , with my crude

spur of moment props will make seance shortly , I was taught this step by step

@ the TOYOTA's T-Ten Academy / program circa 1995


- find glass bottle plastic cap

- use OEM toyota clear washer hose , NIPPONDENSO brand from dealer , like

$5 roll 1 meter

- drill hole in cap 1 bit size smaller then hose to make hose tight and form seals and NOT slide out during use

- warm hose with hair dryer or low temp MAKITA heat gun then push on

OEM slave or brake hydraulic fittings , quickly , let cool , it will then shrink and

form a SUPER SEAL ! leak proof connection

- insert tube in bottle ,

- open zerk , 1/2 - 3/4 turn only

- make sure master is FULL of fluid at all times

- after like 3-5 min , fluid will begin to gravity feed drip then slow flow in tube to bottle , u WILL see air bubbles , this is GOOD

- and whole reason everything is clear crystal visible


- monitor master fluid level , fill up as needed , after 2 full fills , close zerk

- carefully pull off clear hose off zerk ,, HOLD steady fro a second and let remaining fluid run-out to bottle bottom

- re-toque zerk a snitch to make sure its sealed

- put cap on master

- wipe any spilled fluid OFF frame rails , tops , or any other surface H55F Fast !

- dot 3 will eat though original oem land-cruiser single stage enamel paint in seconds NOT minutes


- test peddle push pressure , u should have a firm clutch peddle

- Now last most important step

- per FSM chassis body , spot check peddle free height off floor and travel specs

this is a step most folks either choose to say F it , or simply don't know to do it


if its all good , test drive to local ABC for six pack , and tool around town

with a NEW OEM TOYOTA AISIN slave and or master clutch cylinders


- as a matter of course , and personal reference , i ALWAYS replace them

as a set or pair , u disturb one it lets loose all the age & time Crap in the lines

so , since @cruiseroutfit cruiseroutfitters , & @Cruiser Corps are both

great places to source the AISIN OEM stuff , grab both cylinders save on shipping and have a worry trouble free issue free repair for life of truck as u know it ...........


note: the zerk in my demo is a OEM TOYOTA landcruiser part , i keep them on-hand for emergency's etc ........


if anyone has anything to add , please feel free ..........


oh , lastly , always check your Peddle bumpers , they are usually smoked , and need a freshy update , see part # and parts example below , order we=hen u order hose clear at dealer .......


matt .

 

[ToyotaMatt]

 

[ToyotaMatt]

toyota calls the bumpers i refer to " Cushions " part # 90541-06008

buy a few , they wear out after only a few years ........

there a LOW cost needed parts solution .......

both peddles have them ........

 

[ToyotaMatt]

 

[Steve85]

Thank you for the information, Final question, what size are the bolts that hold the Master to the firewall? One was missing before I started the project thought I had one in my stash but of course I didn't. Thanks Steve

 

[65swb45]

8mm x 1.25 pitch, approximately 30mm long.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Thank you for the information, Final question, what size are the bolts that hold the Master to the firewall? One was missing before I started the project thought I had one in my stash but of course I didn't. Thanks Steve

8mm x 1.25 pitch, approximately 30mm long.

i stock and offer the correct OEM TOYOTA NOS yellow zinc mounting hardware

in 3 packs .....

please send me a PM if you need some mailed out first thing tomorrow


i also offer USPS Priority mail Express overnight service on all Orders ....

for exact USPS rates ........

if this is a emergency vehical down issue .....

 

[ToyotaMatt]

 

[Steve85]

OK went out this morning and gave bleeding the slave cylinder another try. fluid is running out of the bleed valve but after several attempts no pressure on pedal. I can see the plunger moving the clutch lever but it is not enough to disenage the clutch.

I am all ears, not sure if the slave cylinder or master cylinder is faulty, They were new from Cruiser Corp. There was a difference in the size of the master but it bolted in like the original.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

OK went out this morning and gave bleeding the slave cylinder another try. fluid is running out of the bleed valve but after several attempts no pressure on pedal. I can see the plunger moving the clutch lever but it is not enough to disenage the clutch.

I am all ears, not sure if the slave cylinder or master cylinder is faulty, They were new from Cruiser Corp. There was a difference in the size of the master but it bolted in like the original.

do u have a factory FSM chassis body manual ?

recall i mention to make sure to spot check your pedal free height , rubber cushion condition , and free travel or throw adjustment per the fsm soecs ....


this may sound a bit tech. but , you issues lies in one of above final adjustments

more then perhaps ............

IMO

 

[ToyotaMatt]

wow a 1973 Fj43L ........


before i get too deep into this and potentially off topic ?

please Confirm this is the Exact set up or like 94.20% close to it u have on the

1973 FJ43L .....Please

 

[ToyotaMatt]

 

[ToyotaMatt]

how dare me , i should of asked ?

is this a LHD or RHD 73 FJ43 ?

 

[Steve85]

You were right it was a free travel adjustment. Works like advertised. I had to adust the pedal clevis all the way to the end. Then got underneath and adjusted the plunger. See this is what you get from a novice but I am all caught up on this particular item. Next is the e-brake that currently was missing on purchase. At least the parts inside were missing - there is a brake hub on the driveline and some master-mind laid the ebrake cable on the exhaust. But I got a handle and bracket and lots of little parts. This may require a real mechanic to fix. Hate to drive it much until these mechanical issues are addressed. No e-brake on a 40 plus vehicle is a failure point I don't want to experience first hand.

Thanks to all for you help. sah