Clutch pedal pin won't come out-not the usual (1 Viewer)

[Diogenes]

Was going to replace the clutch master cylinder on my '83 FJ60, and got about 3 minutes into it before getting stuck. The clutch pedal pin won't come out of the pedal. It's not rusted, it's not frozen, everything very clean, I can actually turn it in place with almost no resistance. But, it won't come out, does not move at all along its long axis.. Yes, I have removed the cotter pin. Bang on it with a hammer, gently at first then less gently, and nothing.
It almost seems like some part of this assembly has worn a lip on it which is catching, though I have rotated the pin all sorts of ways, and still nothing.
I have not done one on this car before, so maybe I am missing something. I can't see well enough to tell, but is there any sort of an insert in the pedal that this rides through, because it looks like there is a washer or some sort of an insert between the pedal and the arms of the assembly that the pin goes through that is not quite square, but I can't move it.
Anybody have any idea what I am encountering here, as a web search does not pull anything up.
Thanks.

 

[Diogenes]

Okay, never mind, I got it. Just had to post here, have another think, and then I could get it out. Had to fully screw out the push rod from the U-shaped connector piece and that created enough slop in the assembly that I was able to get the pin out. There was, in fact a groove worn into the pin over time, creating a lip which was hanging it up and kept it from passing through. Taking all the pressure off of it, allowed the pin to drop down enough to go through without hitting the lip.
Anyway, sorry for the intrusion. Now, I'll go see what happens next in what was supposed to be an easy afternoon.

 

[Gimme a 60]

Awesome.


Good luck putting it back on.

 

[Diogenes]

Awesome.


Good luck putting it back on.

Thanks. I “buffed out” that ridge and the corresponding one on the other side that would have made replacing it difficult. And greased it, thinking that might help it wear less in the future. Went right in.
It wasn’t huge, 1/32” tall maybe, but you could see where it was freshly galled in one area of the ridge, from when I was banging on it to try to get it out, and it was butting up against the opposing surface.

 

[Gimme a 60]

Thanks. I “buffed out” that ridge and the corresponding one on the other side that would have made replacing it difficult. And greased it, thinking that might help it wear less in the future. Went right in.
It wasn’t huge, 1/32” tall maybe, but you could see where it was freshly galled in one area of the ridge, from when I was banging on it to try to get it out, and it was butting up against the opposing surface.

I remember rage quitting putting that thing back in the hole, taking it out was easy!

 

[cruisermatt]

New pin is about $2 from Toyota.

 

[Diogenes]

New pin is about $2 from Toyota.

Thanks. I had seen earlier while looking for answers on the “internet” that these were NLA, even from outside vendors. Guess I should have checked for a parts source on my own. Not much you can buy for $2 these days.

 

[cruisermatt]

Thanks. I had seen earlier while looking for answers on the “internet” that these were NLA, even from outside vendors. Guess I should have checked for a parts source on my own. Not much you can buy for $2 these days.

I would be happy to sell you one...

 

[Diogenes]

I would be happy to sell you one...

LOL. Thanks, I will check the website and see if there is anything else I need.

 

[Diogenes]

I would be happy to sell you one...

Just purchased the 60 series clutch plumbing kit from your place. Have sent a cover letter to Cruisermatts.com along with the order. Things got much more complicated than the clutch pedal pin as the day went on, involving impossibility of separating hardline from flexible line after 4 hours. Called it a day and bailed in favor of replacing the hard line. This began yesterday as a supposed one hour project. Ha.

 

[4runner2FJ60]

Mine was making a terrible noise when I first got my cruiser. Assume it has more wear than yours, new one was a simple fix.

 

[Diogenes]

Mine was making a terrible noise when I first got my cruiser. Assume it has more wear than yours, new one was a simple fix. View attachment 3453446

Mine was worse than that on the cotter pin end, and better than that on the other end. It was the lip that had been created closest to the hole that was hanging it up and prevented removal until I freed it up by screwing the rod all the way out and off.

 

[Diogenes]

In case anyone was wondering why I said it was impossible for me to disconnect the hard line from the flexible line, this photo might explain why it was difficult, at least for me.
I couldn’t turn the fitting on the hard line because the entire thing would spin, even with the clip in place. Ended up cutting the flexible line assuming that it was going to take more extreme measures. Attached is a photo of the hole in the tab, once I freed up the hard line and moved things out of the way.
I’m assuming that the hole in the tab is supposed to be a hex that the hex on the flexible line fits into, to keep the flexible line from turning when the fitting is tightened or loosened. Not the case here, so the whole thing was just flopping around in there.
I had a total, instant failure of the clutch hydraulic system about 23 years ago and a professional took care of it for me, but I’d have to go back and dig through receipts to find out what was done, but grinding out the inside of the tab looks like that must have been done at that time (?). I really don’t know what exactly went on, but it looks like it involved tightening down the fitting down within an inch of its life and then reamimg out the center hole of the tab, then……something. Too bad they didn’t make a youtube video of “how it’s done”.

 

[Diogenes]

Back again. Cut the hard line, and ordered a new hard line, because I could not get the flexible line removed from the hard line, partly due to access and partly because, as it turned out the fitting was jammed into the flexible line tighter than I was ever going to be able to get it removed with the access I had, and the limited amount of my hand I was able to get into position there. Once the hard line was cut, the joint dropped out, and I was able to clamp the end of the flexible line in a bench vise, and was still unable to separate what was left of the hard line from the flexible line. So, didn’t feel to bad about giving up after spending 3 hours trying with it in position in the bracket.

So…got the new hard line in place, as shown below, with the new flexible line, and new master and slave cylinders. Went to do a gravity bleed, bleed screw open, started pumping pedal as I would normally do, and no fluid exits the master cylinder. I’ve bled the clutch system on this car before, but never after replacing everything, and never had a problem. Also, I can disconnect the hard line from the master cylinder, and no fluid comes out. Which surprised me, but I don’t know what I am doing.

Any ideas on how I need to bleed this and get my car moving again, and what the problem is? What I should do next?

 

[Diogenes]

Nobody knows whether fluid should leak out of the master cylinder if the hard line fitting is removed? Or any of the rest of this posted above? I know you're out there by the dozen, with the answers. Am stuck and can't find another thread to stick this onto that might make it more noticeable, didn't think it was worth a new thread, so will wait a while, but do need some advice/help. Have ordered an adapter 3 days ago to allow me to use my pressure bleeder on it, but it won't be here for another three days, and I don't even know if that is the answer I need to get this bled. Thanks in advance.

 

[micruz60]

Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before installing to the firewall?

 

[cruisermatt]

crack the bleeder screw and have a helper pump the master cylinder really fast by hand. It will bleed.

 

[Diogenes]

Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before installing to the firewall?

No, I didn’t, though it occurred to me after I started having problems. This is actually helpful, because I didn’t know whether this would have made the difference or not. I’ve not done that before, but there are youtube videos, so that’s an option now. Of course it was my following an fj40 youtube video to put this all together, where they didn’t bench bleed it beforehand that made me think that would not be necessary.
Thank you.

 

[Diogenes]

crack the bleeder screw and have a helper pump the master cylinder really fast by hand. It will bleed.

Thanks. Bleeder screw has been significantly cracked, but it’s possible I was not pumping it fast enough. Pumped it a significant amount but maybe not enough, and not fast enough. Will give that a shot right now. Thanks.