Clusters, Gauges, Speedo & Odo meters (1 Viewer)

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Yes I have a multimeter. I'm just not sure what to check on the printed circuit board from where to where to know if it's correct or not. And do I need to remove all gauges and light fixtures on the printed circuit board before I check it? Thank you for your help. Just asking because if I check continuity it could run through everything and back to itself. Therefore getting a bad reading so I think I need to isolate and remove everything. But let me know what to check in where if you know.
Do you have a picture of the voltage regulator or how it was connected before? I see a transistor with wires…is that stock or is that what you are referring to?
 
Yes I have a multimeter. I'm just not sure what to check on the printed circuit board from where to where to know if it's correct or not. And do I need to remove all gauges and light fixtures on the printed circuit board before I check it? Thank you for your help. Just asking because if I check continuity it could run through everything and back to itself. Therefore getting a bad reading so I think I need to isolate and remove everything. But let me know what to check in where if you know.

Do you have a picture of the voltage regulator or how it was connected before? I see a transistor with wires…is that stock or is that what you are referring to?
Here it is with the voltage regulator installed and after removed with the new fuel gauge.

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PXL_20240703_160711587.jpg
 
Pin 4 connects to ground through the fuel sender.
If you connect your test lamp and it flashes then that's good - it's working.
Can you see the gauge move with the test light connected?

Check continuity in the wiring from pin 4 to the fuel sender. Also check that the other side of the sender is well grounded
Okay so I guess the brown wire is going to the gauge and the black wire is ground that is on the plug at the sending unit? Do I need to remove the same unit to check it or can I just go from the pin?

PXL_20240703_203129027.jpg
 
Here it is with the voltage regulator installed and after removed with the new fuel gauge.

View attachment 3669050

View attachment 3669051
The way that looks to me is the transistor was connected to a ground (black wire hanging by the screw on the corner) and also connected to Pin 2….I think. So maybe the Pin 2 was also powering Pin 4 through the transistor bc they couldn’t figure out where the break was? I don’t have a schematic of the gauge cluster. If there is one maybe I can make heads or tails of it. I’m not versed enough in FJ40s to know if that was a common fix or mod….but anyone that trace jumps and uses transistors was likely an old school electronics dude…..

I could be way off, but that is what I gather from the pics.
 
The way that looks to me is the transistor was connected to a ground (black wire hanging by the screw on the corner) and also connected to Pin 2….I think. So maybe the Pin 2 was also powering Pin 4 through the transistor bc they couldn’t figure out where the break was? I don’t have a schematic of the gauge cluster. If there is one maybe I can make heads or tails of it. I’m not versed enough in FJ40s to know if that was a common fix or mod….but anyone that trace jumps and uses transistors was likely an old school electronics dude…..

I could be way off, but that is what I gather from the pics.
I thought the same thing so I made a jumper and ran it between those two posts and it didn't change anything.
 
Okay so the ground from the sending unit is good. The sending unit wire is good for continuity from the same unit to the plug under the battery compartment pin number 5 yellow and red wire have continuity. I thought it should connected to pin number 4?

Still not understanding why everything worked fine. I removed the voltage regulator and now fuel and temperature meters are not working.
 
Its very confusing posting the same discussion on two separate threads with slightly different information.
I propose that you stop adding to this one and focus on the other.
 
Here's the plug under the battery compartment I was talking about

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what is the purpose of all the added NON-TOYOTA wires and resisters ?

what and what is the Purple wire soldered in place like that blue circuit board ??



i do like that purple wire Mooching B+ or what ever

that suggests a BAD internal cluster meter gauge , Blue Circuit board or BOTH !




matt


,
 
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what is the purpose of all the added NON-TOYOTA wires and resisters ?

what and what is the Purple wire soldered in place like that blue circuit board ??


it seams the " J-RIG " factor is wat over the top here ?


i do like that purple wire Mooching B+ or what ever

that STRONGLY suggests a BAD internal cluster meter gauge , Blue Circuit board or BOTH !



choose wisely here my friend !


matt


,
The ground track has broken on the pcb, that's all. Very common there under the connector. Someone added a small purple patch wire to repair it.
Nothing wrong with that in principle so long as its well done.
Had exactly the same fault on one of mine. Luckily I'm an electronic craftsman so this is just a fun job for me

20230612_155853.jpg
 
The ground track has broken on the pcb, that's all. Very common there under the connector. Someone added a small purple patch wire to repair it.
Nothing wrong with that in principle so long as its well done.
Had exactly the same fault on one of mine. Luckily I'm an electronic craftsman so this is just a fun job for me

View attachment 3670082



- what i was trying to ask , is how come there is some sort of Voltage Regulator involved in this cluster meter to start with ?
- i missed this key-point detail yesterday , this photo below you posted of your
1/79-10/85 circa. era body style 40 series Fuel Tank sending unit service cover below :
- this is NOT the correct 1-79-10/85 40 Series Fuel Sender you have installed , ,none of the 55 , 60 , or 62 land cruisers ever used a solder-point's pigtail set-up like you show here

- in addition look closely at all your flange & it's philips head machine screws , the star ⭐pattern is blank solid metal , i thought at first it may be just a snapped off screw head ? but is does not look that way unless sand , age, time , and the fact that this float sender was replaced a long long time ago , as in maybe decades ? ......
- so , metal solid due to wrong star bolt pattern , or snapped off pan-head ? the fact remains That is not the correct fuel sender for your truck
- some older Toyota Cars like a CORONA , Celica , Carina did , but all were 24V applications , this may explain the ⭐ pattern being off also maybe ?
/
- from 1962 - 1965 there was a male threaded stud and ring terminal set-up , much like a alternator
- 1966 - 1972 single male spade , / short curtain rod ( Round Target head style , for that ear cluster meters without a Round Barrel Connector )
- 1973 - 12/78 single male spade terminal / short curtain rod
- 1/79-10/85 Double Terminals style w/ added modern age polarization incorporated grounding circuit tab , / Long curtain rod
( your sender should be this last type and style )
- i have never seen a gas tank sending unit with a solder-points pigtail before , on any Toyota Land Cruiser ......?
perhaps that sender is sending all is bad signal's right up to you and that cluster meter ........
hope this helps ?
matt
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1720154318140.png

1720154345145.png
 
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The ground track has broken on the pcb, that's all. Very common there under the connector. Someone added a small purple patch wire to repair it.
Nothing wrong with that in principle so long as its well done.
Had exactly the same fault on one of mine. Luckily I'm an electronic craftsman so this is just a fun job for me

View attachment 3670082
Thank you so much! I just ordered a new circuit board. Hopefully that will solve my problem. My temperature gauge started working for some reason. I have no idea why and it has all week. Just my fuel gauge is not working now. Maybe this will solve that problem
 
- what i was trying to ask , is how come there is some sort of Voltage Regulator involved in this cluster meter to start with ?
- i missed this key-point detail yesterday , this photo below you posted of your
1/79-10/85 circa. era body style 40 series Fuel Tank sending unit service cover below :
- this is NOT the correct 1-79-10/85 40 Series Fuel Sender you have installed , ,none of the 55 , 60 , or 62 land cruisers ever used a solder-point's pigtail set-up like you show here

- in addition look closely at all your flange & it's philips head machine screws , the star ⭐pattern is blank solid metal , i thought at first it may be just a snapped off screw head ? but is does not look that way unless sand , age, time , and the fact that this float sender was replaced a long long time ago , as in maybe decades ? ......
- so , metal solid due to wrong star bolt pattern , or snapped off pan-head ? the fact remains That is not the correct fuel sender for your truck
- some older Toyota Cars like a CORONA , Celica , Carina did , but all were 24V applications , this may explain the ⭐ pattern being off also maybe ?
/
- from 1962 - 1965 there was a male threaded stud and ring terminal set-up , much like a alternator
- 1966 - 1972 single male spade , / short curtain rod ( Round Target head style , for that ear cluster meters without a Round Barrel Connector )
- 1973 - 12/78 single male spade terminal / short curtain rod
- 1/79-10/85 Double Terminals style w/ added modern age polarization incorporated grounding circuit tab , / Long curtain rod
( your sender should be this last type and style )
- i have never seen a gas tank sending unit with a solder-points pigtail before , on any Toyota Land Cruiser ......?
perhaps that sender is sending all is bad signal's right up to you and that cluster meter ........
hope this helps ?
matt
View attachment 3670169

- what i was trying to ask , is how come there is some sort of Voltage Regulator involved in this cluster meter to start with ?
- i missed this key-point detail yesterday , this photo below you posted of your
1/79-10/85 circa. era body style 40 series Fuel Tank sending unit service cover below :
- this is NOT the correct 1-79-10/85 40 Series Fuel Sender you have installed , ,none of the 55 , 60 , or 62 land cruisers ever used a solder-point's pigtail set-up like you show here

- in addition look closely at all your flange & it's philips head machine screws , the star ⭐pattern is blank solid metal , i thought at first it may be just a snapped off screw head ? but is does not look that way unless sand , age, time , and the fact that this float sender was replaced a long long time ago , as in maybe decades ? ......
- so , metal solid due to wrong star bolt pattern , or snapped off pan-head ? the fact remains That is not the correct fuel sender for your truck
- some older Toyota Cars like a CORONA , Celica , Carina did , but all were 24V applications , this may explain the ⭐ pattern being off also maybe ?
/
- from 1962 - 1965 there was a male threaded stud and ring terminal set-up , much like a alternator
- 1966 - 1972 single male spade , / short curtain rod ( Round Target head style , for that ear cluster meters without a Round Barrel Connector )
- 1973 - 12/78 single male spade terminal / short curtain rod
- 1/79-10/85 Double Terminals style w/ added modern age polarization incorporated grounding circuit tab , / Long curtain rod
( your sender should be this last type and style )
- i have never seen a gas tank sending unit with a solder-points pigtail before , on any Toyota Land Cruiser ......?
perhaps that sender is sending all is bad signal's right up to you and that cluster meter ........
hope this helps ?
matt
View attachment 3670169
View attachment 3670174

View attachment 3670170

View attachment 3670171
Thanks Matt, I really appreciate that. I think that was one of my problems as well. I thought it looked very weird. Also, who knows where it came from. Ordered a new sending unit from cruiser corps. When I unplugged the sending unit that's installed on the vehicle I checked from each solder connection on the sending unit to ground, And both were grounded. So I think that tells me that the sending unit is grounding out and shouldn't and is bad. I think that will solve my problem. Also ordered a brand new PCB board for the back of the gauge to replace it.

Thanks Matt. As always I appreciate it
 
Random one and perhaps covered in this thread but a quick glance didn't yield info.

Has anyone seen a speedometer unit that has an external thread connection where the speedometer cable attaches?

1721144390513.png


I'm wracking my brain to think of where I've seen this before but I can only recall the screw-on (internal threads) being used up to 9/1972 and then the clip-on being used later.

1721144409479.png
 
Yes my 69 (5/68 build date) does.
 
Yes my 69 (5/68 build date) does.

Yours uses external threads (B style in photo below) for the speedo cable at the cluster versus the internal threads shown? Any chance you have a pic? My 66, 68 and 72 have all had the internal threads (A style in photo below) at the cluster.


1721150716297.png
 
Yours uses external threads (B style in photo below) for the speedo cable at the cluster versus the internal threads shown? Any chance you have a pic? My 66, 68 and 72 have all had the internal threads (A style in photo below) at the cluster.


View attachment 3678819
when I got it 30 years ago it had that type of coupling kinda like the transfercase side. It has been thru a few clusters and cables since. The current one was like A in the picture. But has come off so I just stick it into the back of the cluster now.
 
when I got it 30 years ago it had that type of coupling kinda like the transfercase side. It has been thru a few clusters and cables since. The current one was like A in the picture. But has come off so I just stick it into the back of the cluster now.

A is the standard... I'm looking for someone with a cluster that uses the B attachement ie. a external thread connection where the speedometer cable attaches. Or confirmation that it was ever stock.
 
there is what looks like a picture of one around post 435

Super interesting, that is very similar. Those are the only two cases I can recollect. We've sold hundreds and hundreds of 9/72 & older speedo cables over the years and this is the first time we've heard from a customer with an issue. I wonder if there were replacement or perhaps even an aftermarket speedo unit or cluster assembly back in the day?

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