Clusters, Gauges, Speedo & Odo meters
- Thread starter bj40green
- Start date
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Reading all this you are use to new guys asking dumb questions and not question is dumb , its dumb not to ask .
I have just picked up my first BJ40 1980, had to replace the alternator which I did , but still no charge to the battery, reconnected the fusable links that had been by passed and then had to replace the two 5am fuses, car now goes battery is getting charge but not fuel or Temp gauges working . My amp gauge works now but goes off the scale when the revs go up and fluctuates when the indicators flash, so I changed the voltage regulator today but still no joy, when on tick over the light are only just on but when the engine revs they come bright . Now just finished playing and had the engine revving lights going and smoke came from behind the cluster (so all off now and battery disconnected) . Help what to look for ? one last thing is the 5amp fuses get hot ? I am based in Brisbane if anyone could suggest a suitable expert near by before it all goes up in somke !!
I have just picked up my first BJ40 1980, had to replace the alternator which I did , but still no charge to the battery, reconnected the fusable links that had been by passed and then had to replace the two 5am fuses, car now goes battery is getting charge but not fuel or Temp gauges working . My amp gauge works now but goes off the scale when the revs go up and fluctuates when the indicators flash, so I changed the voltage regulator today but still no joy, when on tick over the light are only just on but when the engine revs they come bright . Now just finished playing and had the engine revving lights going and smoke came from behind the cluster (so all off now and battery disconnected) . Help what to look for ? one last thing is the 5amp fuses get hot ? I am based in Brisbane if anyone could suggest a suitable expert near by before it all goes up in somke !!
bj40green
Tssss, tssss
- Thread starter
- #443
Wow, you have a nice problem here. On a '79 and later (with the 50-0-50 Ammeter) the Ammeter should NOT indicate what is going on due to a design error in the fusible link that acts as a shunt for the Ammeter (later more on this).
The fact that your Ammeter goes nuts means that "somebody" modified the wiring.
Let's start with your charge problem. First..... disconnect the Ammeter circuit by pulling the plug (connector) to the ammeter.
Find the fusible link (see picture) and disconnect the connector with the black and white/blue wires (bottom left).
Now you've disconnected the Ammeter in your cluster. I hope that your Ammeter is still alive (fingers crossed).
let's see if your alternator is doing it's job and post your problem in this thread: -► Voltage Regulator (ext.) / How it works
Once we have established that all is good with the charging we're going back to the Ammeter problem.
Rudi
The fact that your Ammeter goes nuts means that "somebody" modified the wiring.
Let's start with your charge problem. First..... disconnect the Ammeter circuit by pulling the plug (connector) to the ammeter.
Find the fusible link (see picture) and disconnect the connector with the black and white/blue wires (bottom left).
Now you've disconnected the Ammeter in your cluster. I hope that your Ammeter is still alive (fingers crossed).
let's see if your alternator is doing it's job and post your problem in this thread: -► Voltage Regulator (ext.) / How it works
Once we have established that all is good with the charging we're going back to the Ammeter problem.
Rudi
New question. Is it straight forward to convert a cluster in km to one in miles by swapping the speedometer?
Sorry...don't understand. Not just wanting to change the face plate, but to actually roll in miles.
Found the issue and your photo of the fusable link was the key, when disconnecting the ammeter connection nothing worked, so a close look at the link and I only have one major cable shrouded not two so all the current was going via the ammeter circuit, I have removed the cluster s I wanted to find where the smoke was coming from and it was inside this cluster , I did a continuity test across the back of the terminal posts three where good but the ammeter was not , will check the output from the alternator later, as I now need to find a new fusable link.
Fusible link repaired and all good, head lights dont increase with revs and charging is good , but no Ameter, fuel or temp working so whats the next steps to get them working, I did put on a new Voltage regulator ?
I have Aug. 1967 with both oil and amp metersThe 2nd generation from March ’69 till Sept. ‘72
The OIL and CHARGE lights are replaced by gauges
Rudi
bj40green
Tssss, tssss
- Thread starter
- #452
I think the wiring to, or the Ammeter self is fried/toast. This circuit is separate and has nothing to do with the other gauges.
The Fuel and Temp gauges are a set. Check voltage on pin 3 to cluster first.
The Temp gauge won't work if the Fuel gauge doesn't work.
Rudi
Ok strange no voltage on pin 3 , but let me tell you what works on the cluster High beam indicator light works, turn signal indicators work , whats your thoughts ?
bj40green
Tssss, tssss
- Thread starter
- #458
All these circuits are powered from outside the cluster and have nothing to do with the gauges. In other words.... the indicator lights in the cluster are at the end of the line.
Your gauges are powered from the heater fuse. Check that fuse, the holding clips, clean them up, etc.
Rudi
Thanks,
I am 100% sure this is the original cluster, i have a april -68 with same cluster aswell
