Cloudy Headlights: Best $20 Ever!

[Markuson]

My 8 year old 2008 looks practically new--except for the ugly headlight covers. They were pretty bad & I assumed the damage was too deep in the plastic to recover, but picked up this $20 kit from Harbor Freight yesterday to give it a try:

See the before/after below with about 90 minutes of fiddling with the kit...

Before:

After:

Super happy with the results.

The kit is basically about 12 velcro-attached sand paper discs that you attached to a flexible drill-bit pad included in the kit. There is 500 grit, 800, 2000, and finally, a tube of polish that has a super-fine grit to it that you apply to a sponge bit-head via velcro again.

There are various ways of doing this, including a youtube guy who finishes his technique with clear-coat rattle-can stuff. After seeing the results here without any of that mess, I'd suggest you skip that messy alternative and try this one.

One suggested tweak to the instructions:
It only tells you to use water on the 2000 grit pad, but after doing the entire process on the second headlight WET, I highly recommend doing the entire process wet with a squirt bottle of water. It makes the sand-paper last longer, self-clean, and avoids the possibility of too much friction resulting in heat damage.

Anyway, I'm amazed at the difference & no longer tempted to replace my headlights.

Give it a try!

 

[bigbassinbob]

These kits work really well. I've used them on my wife's old 4runner several times. The only problem is that they always get clouded up again pretty fast, like 6 months or so and back to looking how they did before using it. I've used the 3M brand previously. About $15 on Amazon.

 

[Markuson]

These kits work really well. I've used them on my wife's old 4runner several times. The only problem is that they always get clouded up again pretty fast, like 6 months or so and back to looking how they did before using it. I've used the 3M brand previously. About $15 on Amazon.

Ya, we'll see. This resurfaces the plastic and does not rely on wax or clear-coat to clear it, so time will tell.

 

[RickC5]

These kits work really well. I've used them on my wife's old 4runner several times. The only problem is that they always get clouded up again pretty fast, like 6 months or so and back to looking how they did before using it. I've used the 3M brand previously. About $15 on Amazon.

That was my experience on a 2006 Tacoma too. The covers clouded over again after a few months in the Colorado sun. I can't recall the brand kit I used, but it also involved sanding with different grits, buffing, polishing and applying a "protectant". Got it at Wallymart.

 

[NLScooby]

The after shots look great! Mine are just starting to cloud. My 06 Dodge Cummins headlights are really bad. I'll likely try those first. Keep us posted on how long it lasts!

 

[Markuson]

That was my experience on a 2006 Tacoma too. The covers clouded over again after a few months in the Colorado sun. I can't recall the brand kit I used, but it also involved sanding with different grits, buffing, polishing and applying a "protectant". Got it at Wallymart.

I', wondering if perhaps these "protectants" may have been what failed.
This method applies no "protectant," so nothing to peel or fade... We'll see.

 

[WildYoats]

Looks great, well done. I'd suggest a little follow-up with a 3M or other reputable brand of clear film (aka Clearbra). A reputable place should be able to apply it for not much money, or you can give it a shot yourself (it can be a little tricky with a lot of the complex curves). It will help against micro-pitting and oxidation as well.

 

[Markuson]

Looks great, well done. I'd suggest a little follow-up with a 3M or other reputable brand of clear film (aka Clearbra). A reputable place should be able to apply it for not much money, or you can give it a shot yourself (it can be a little tricky with a lot of the complex curves). It will help against micro-pitting and oxidation as well.

I'm a little hesitant to apply a coating because I have a feeling the coatings are often what start to fail. Not sure. You might be right, but I think I'll let it go and see what happens without it. I know some methods rely on a wax or other compound for the final step, but I liked that this method cleared the material without relying on anything being applied.

 

[WildYoats]

I'm a little hesitant to apply a coating because I have a feeling the coatings are often what start to fail. Not sure. You might be right, but I think I'll let it go and see what happens without it. I know some methods rely on a wax or other compound for the final step, but I liked that this method cleared the material without relying on anything being applied.

Understandable. Definitely want a good name brand product, that's for sure. There are a lot of different products out there.

 

[Ali FJ80]

You have essentially sanded off the UV protection by resurfacing which is fine but they will get cloud up again pretty quick without any protection.

I have done countless headlights over the years using many of these kits and the best results to I have had which have lasted years are to sand with coarser paper to get all chips and imperfections off. Then wet sand working up to about 2000 grit. Clean with alcohol and let dry. They will look completely cloudy at this point and then just spray with automotive clear coat. Once this is cured, polish them smooth as there will be some orange peel effect. Once smooth they look like new glass and with the UV protection of the clear coat they go for years. The big difference is you have to remove the lights from the car to do this method.

 

[Markuson]

You have essentially sanded off the UV protection by resurfacing which is fine but they will get cloud up again pretty quick without any protection.

I have done countless headlights over the years using many of these kits and the best results to I have had which have lasted years are to sand with coarser paper to get all chips and imperfections off. Then wet sand working up to about 2000 grit. Clean with alcohol and let dry. They will look completely cloudy at this point and then just spray with automotive clear coat. Once this is cured, polish them smooth as there will be some orange peel effect. Once smooth they look like new glass and with the UV protection of the clear coat they go for years. The big difference is you have to remove the lights from the car to do this method.

Thanks for the info & experience. I'm pretty sure that whatever layer was there was mostly gone before I started, but what you say makes sense.

What clear coat did you use?

 

[Ali FJ80]

Dupli-color automotive clear coat which comes in a can. I normally do two thin to medium coats and them polish. If you overdo it with the clear you will notice the lenses take on a slight golden hue. If that happens which did to me the very first time you just sand it off again and re-coat.

 

[blatant]

what do new oem lights run?

 

[Markuson]

what do new oem lights run?

Just the housing without any connectors, screws, bulbs, mounts, etc. would be around $400.

 

[Tripledave]

You have essentially sanded off the UV protection by resurfacing which is fine but they will get cloud up again pretty quick without any protection.

I have done countless headlights over the years using many of these kits and the best results to I have had which have lasted years are to sand with coarser paper to get all chips and imperfections off. Then wet sand working up to about 2000 grit. Clean with alcohol and let dry. They will look completely cloudy at this point and then just spray with automotive clear coat. Once this is cured, polish them smooth as there will be some orange peel effect. Once smooth they look like new glass and with the UV protection of the clear coat they go for years. The big difference is you have to remove the lights from the car to do this method.

This ^^^^^^^. If you re-apply a clear coat after any successful reconditioning process you will have lasting results. Waxes and liquid sealers also work but do not last long. Re-application of waxes or liquid sealers almost weekly is essential unless you clear coat and polish. I have also tried treating clear coated lenses with 303 Aerospace. Results pending as its only been a few weeks since my last "lens job".

 

[wiseinvestor]

Ya, we'll see. This resurfaces the plastic and does not rely on wax or clear-coat to clear it, so time will tell.

Did the cloudy come back after a while with this method? I was wondering if a ppf after reconditioning would replace the removed uv protective coating.

 

[Markuson]

Did the cloudy come back after a while with this method? I was wondering if a ppf after reconditioning would replace the removed uv protective coating.

Yellowing will always eventually return to ANY method without a serious job with clear coat, etc. But this weird method is so easy to do, I just end up doing it a few times a year. Not claiming it’s superior. But it’s quick and easy and makes a huge difference with minimal fuss....until you get around to major surgery.

Frankly, you might wanna try it just out of curiosity. Definitely helps using a $20 orbital from Harbor Freight.
I know... I have mostly VERY nice tools, but this cheapie HF works so well, I can’t see what spending 8 times as much adds on such a simple tool...

 

[Karbon]

On my truck I have XPEL headlight and fog light film, and I can clearly see where the lens started to cloud/yellow on the border of the film. The area covered by the film is still crystal clear and holding up well in my case after 3+ years outside 24/7. It's definitely not the easiest headlight to film, so it takes a lot of patience with a heat gun to get decent results. For me I think it was worth it to not deal with restoring them more frequently.

 

[drfous]

I did the polish and followed up,with film on my 07 Tundra.

Perfectly clear 6 years later.

 

[Markuson]

I did the polish and followed up,with film on my 07 Tundra.

Perfectly clear 6 years later.

Can you post details on this “film” you applied?