"Clicking" sound when slow turning - bearings?

[mcgaskins]

CV looks dry, but it sounds like that could be the culprit. Or perhaps maybe UCAs or something else wasn’t properly torqued back down after the alignment?

Great video btw.Very helpful and cool to watch too.

 

[linuxgod]

I'm still voting CV. Or something that is highly tied to the rotation of the tire in any case. If you watch the CV clamp the click happens at the same spot every turn.

 

[TeCKis300]

That is a cool vid!

Wonder how it happened. I don't think you've taken apart your suspension before? And while I know you have a sensor lift, it's no taller than most LC static lifts right?

 

[Markuson]

I cleared out all the rocks in the treads and stuck on my gopro. It’s definitely a metal sound, and only occurs while turning.
Coincidentally, our suburban made a similar sound last year, and the dealer notes mentioned something about re-torquing some bolts.






So bad CV joint at 65k miles or something needs to be tightened down?

Every time it clicked in your video, it happened at the exact same point within the revolution (verify by watching the clamp screw in the foreground). another sure what’s clicking, but if it’s always in that position, it might be a clue that something is making contact...or one point in the CV.

PS. Oh! jinx with @linuxgod

 

[radman]

No modifications to suspension other than sensor lift.

Would dropping into lo theoretically move the caster forward and relieve some stress on the CV?

If it wasn't for my 2wd suburban doing the same thing, I'd be convinced it was cv.

 

[bloc]

I’m not convinced it is CV. When you hit the bump you get a rise in that sound and I don’t think CV would do this, but wheel/hub interface could, as the forces through that system rise dramatically. I’d be checking wheel spacer fitment and torque ASAP.

 

[grinchy]

It looks one to one with revolutions most of the time, but not always. No guesses here what it might be though.

 

[radman]

Lugs are snug, occurs in low mode, passenger side only, left turns more than right turns, but may have heard it echoing off an entrance ramp wall going straight. Will check the GoPro footage on straight driving and pull the wheel to check the spacer torque.

Shop that performed alignment is willing to check it next week, and I have extended warranty if it's not torque related; however, that would mean taking spacers off and putting the stock wheels back on in order to hide the evidence

 

[Markuson]

Lugs are snug, occurs in low mode, passenger side only, left turns more than right turns, but may have heard it echoing off an entrance ramp wall going straight. Will check the GoPro footage on straight driving and pull the wheel to check the spacer torque.

Shop that performed alignment is willing to check it next week, and I have extended warranty if it's not torque related; however, that would mean taking spacers off and putting the stock wheels back on in order to hide the evidence

Just temporarily take that that one wheel’s spacer off and test as you’re doing. Nothing catastrophic can happen just doing a non-spacer test like the one you shot on video.

Seems to me like you need to start eliminating easy variables like this first instead of wondering.

 

[indycole]

I know this is going to sound crazy given the evidence in the video, but check your skids (around the transfer case especially if you have aftermarket skids) to make sure they're not rubbing against anything under torque.

 

[turbo8]

When you check the spacer torque, check the back of your wheels, where it mounts to the hub, for damage.

 

[radman]

Last update before I go see the pros....

- checked the spacer torque at 120ft-lbs. all good
- checked the wheel torque at 97
- no after market skids

Just temporarily take that that one wheel’s spacer off and test as you’re doing. Nothing catastrophic can happen just doing a non-spacer test like the one you shot on video.

Them 35s won't turn like that without spacers



Didn't see any click in my original video going straight, but I found a section from the initial turn. Heard a series of pops that were not rhythmic with the others.




Also, is this much play normal?

 

[bloc]

Last update before I go see the pros....

- checked the spacer torque at 120ft-lbs. all good
- checked the wheel torque at 97
- no after market skids





Them 35s won't turn like that without spacers



Didn't see any click in my original video going straight, but I found a section from the initial turn. Heard a series of pops that were not rhythmic with the others.




Also, is this much play normal?

Yes that rotational play is normal. That’s the total slack in the drive lines between the transmission being in park and that wheel, with front and rear diffs, center diff, transfer case, everything adding up to that amount of play.

 

[radman]

Last last interesting thing: I think I mentioned this before, but just confirmed.... clicks do not occur turning right, only left. I would expect a Hub/spacer issue to click both ways?

 

[bloc]

Last last interesting thing: I think I mentioned this before, but just confirmed.... clicks do not occur turning right, only left. I would expect a Hub/spacer issue to click both ways?

There is more force on the outside front wheel in a turn, between weight transfer and scrub forces. If anything clicking one direction but not the other should point toward hub/bearing vs CV, as the cv operation isn’t appreciably different with opposite directions of steering. Whereas the forces on the hub/suspension/wheel/spacer are.

 

[bloc]

Just thinking about this.. if you can securely get the front wheels in the air on jack stands, and disconnect the rear driveshaft, you can let the front end drive in idle and listen to the front hubs with a mechanic’s stethoscope. Compare the right side to the left. Doing this you’ll hear even very minor issues with the bearings.

 

[radman]

That would also explain me possibly hearing it going straight...
Would a single bad bearing also explain the rhythmic sound?
What are the safety concerns of a bad bearing vs bad CV?

 

[grinchy]

That would also explain me possibly hearing it going straight...
Would a single bad bearing also explain the rhythmic sound?
What are the safety concerns of a bad bearing vs bad CV?

Front hub bearing? They just make noise, not a real safety concern for a while. If you decide to change, it’s easier to buy a hub. basically a brake job and then four more bolts. Need the 36mm axle nut socket and a puller.

 

[radman]

"a while" as in go on a 400 mile camping trip? are there safeties in place that would prevent the wheel from falling off?

...looks like this might be a good time to upgrade to some beef brakes.

 

[grinchy]

Mine lasted 210,000 miles. I would guess you have some time*

*internet diagnosis. No liability accepted unless beer was exchanged.