Click but no start! (1 Viewer)

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Mar 22, 2018
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Location
Bethesda, MD
I have a question. So my 1995 Land Cruiser will intermittently not start. This has only occurred while the engine is hot. After driving normally, I will park to get gas or make a phone call and shut the engine off. Then 10-15 minutes later, I will try to start the car. All the lights on the dash turn on properly and the radio gets power, but when I turn the key, the engine won't start. It will not even try to turn the starter motor. After trying for 5-10 minutes, then the engine will suddenly turn on normally as if nothing happened. The car has a brand new starter motor too. I narrowed it down to possibly being the starter relay from what I have been reading, but I can't find the part number. It has never done this when the engine is cold. This has happened 3 times now, but this past weekend it happened when I was offroading at Cleghorn, I shut the engine off for 10 minutes and couldn't fire it up again and it scared me. Anyone have any input?

Also, completely unrelated, my oil light turns on randomly, and then it turns off and back on while driving. Anyone else know what could be causing that? My engine oil level is fine.

Thanks!
 
...and you put in a new starter because you had the same problem or ?

New starter as in a reman denso or some autoparts wonder (if it works)?

You could measure with a meter if you are getting +12V to the solenoid when attempting to crank (ignition switch to start). You need 2 people or you need to run a wire from the solenoid +ve to the meter to observe. This would at least tell you if +12V was reaching the solenoid and would then point to a starter issue or an ignition switch path issue or even the NSS (neutral safety switch) etc.

Oil light coming on if oil level is good is likely the sensor going bad/gunked up etc.

cheers,
george.
 
If your battery cables are tight and cables are good, install a Ford Solenoid off the battery to send full power to the starter solenoid and be done with it.
The wiring to and from the ignition switch is 20 years old, degraded and needs an upgrade.
@Calidevildoc Here's the thread I would read all the way through before changing your starter again:
94 delayed cranking. Starter, ignition switch, or other?
 
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i would recommend a remanufactured Denso starter. These trucks don't have a starter relay, the starting solenoid is integrated into the starter motor assembly. you can service the solenoid independently, but you might find it easier to just replace the whole unit. cleaning up your cable contacts will only help.

your oil light is coming on because of your oil level sensor has a faulty connection.
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check the wiring for that connector, maybe you have a frayed wire. the sensor is on the Driver Side of the engine, just below the starter (maybe your wiring is a little funky in this part of the engine bay).
 
Thanks! I replaced the starter last month because of different symptoms, it would try to crank but sounded like it got stuck and wouldn't start the engine, but have not had that issue once I replaced the starter motor. Thanks for all the responses! My battery is good, connections are good. I'll have to look into replacing the solenoid to the starter motor.
 
Replace your starter asap!
 
Whack it with a wrench. If it starts then you need a new new starter. I had the same problem with a "new" starter. It would start after whacking it with a wrench, just like the one I'd replaced. I got an actual new starter, not a rebuilt one, and the problem was solved.
 
I was in this horror movie
Changed every thing, changed the starter 2 time with remanufactured units the second one in a mill spec vendor changed the fusible link and the black box changed battery no go very 10 starts it failed in the most impropriety time, the last time on the way to my friends the law required the last 10 mils off road should be done before nightfall but until i made it start it was night and when arivied to camp my pig frends eat all the meat and drank almost all the bear :deadhorse:
my electrician cut his veins and commit suicide and we did everything the switch in the P position of gear handle.
some times it made a tick and sometimes there was no noise at all
What confused us was that some time taping on the starter with a wrench made it start this is a symptom of dead malfunction starter
So I was planing to Order New OEM starter from Japan

but before that there a fourm with a bunch of crazy crazy OCD people maybe you now it IH8MUD? used search button and there was the solution it saved me 600$ and all i neded was 70$ part from Toyota and :banana: work to replace

The starting circuit in 80 different from modern car the key switch as to handle high current.

3 months no problem

ks.jpg
 
I was in this horror movie
Changed every thing, changed the starter 2 time with remanufactured units the second one in a mill spec vendor changed the fusible link and the black box changed battery no go very 10 starts it failed in the most impropriety time, the last time on the way to my friends the law required the last 10 mils off road should be done before nightfall but until i made it start it was night and when arivied to camp my pig frends eat all the meat and drank almost all the bear :deadhorse:
my electrician cut his veins and commit suicide and we did everything the switch in the P position of gear handle.
some times it made a tick and sometimes there was no noise at all
What confused us was that some time taping on the starter with a wrench made it start this is a symptom of dead malfunction starter
So I was planing to Order New OEM starter from Japan

but before that there a fourm with a bunch of crazy crazy OCD people maybe you now it IH8MUD? used search button and there was the solution it saved me 600$ and all i neded was 70$ part from Toyota and :banana: work to replace

The starting circuit in 80 different from modern car the key switch as to handle high current.

3 months no problem

View attachment 1840680

Have only seen one ignition switch fail, seem to be very durable. Unlike old school VWs, replaced tons of them and in most cases added relays. This masterpiece of engineering was done in the parking lot of the Four Corners Inn in Blanding UT. What can't be seen is the jumper wire tucked behind it, so start it with a screwdriver, if that fails, touch the jumper to hot and the starter goes.:hillbilly:

It worked, made it through 6 more days of Utah wheeling. Replaced the switch and hasn't been a problem since.
ign_switch.jpg
 
Have only seen one ignition switch fail, seem to be very durable. Unlike old school VWs, replaced tons of them and in most cases added relays. This masterpiece of engineering was done in the parking lot of the Four Corners Inn in Blanding UT. What can't be seen is the jumper wire tucked behind it, so start it with a screwdriver, if that fails, touch the jumper to hot and the starter goes.:hillbilly:

It worked, made it through 6 more days of Utah wheeling. Replaced the switch and hasn't been a problem since.
View attachment 1840928
I went through ignition switches in my Vanagon days. I still have a bunch of new ones lying around and pass them out to broken down vans all the time.

I’m having the same intermittent no start and going to try Dino’s part references above.
 
I was in this horror movie
Changed every thing, changed the starter 2 time with remanufactured units the second one in a mill spec vendor changed the fusible link and the black box changed battery no go very 10 starts it failed in the most impropriety time, the last time on the way to my friends the law required the last 10 mils off road should be done before nightfall but until i made it start it was night and when arivied to camp my pig frends eat all the meat and drank almost all the bear :deadhorse:
my electrician cut his veins and commit suicide and we did everything the switch in the P position of gear handle.
some times it made a tick and sometimes there was no noise at all
What confused us was that some time taping on the starter with a wrench made it start this is a symptom of dead malfunction starter
So I was planing to Order New OEM starter from Japan

but before that there a fourm with a bunch of crazy crazy OCD people maybe you now it IH8MUD? used search button and there was the solution it saved me 600$ and all i neded was 70$ part from Toyota and :banana: work to replace

The starting circuit in 80 different from modern car the key switch as to handle high current.

3 months no problem

View attachment 1840680

One question, what kind of reman starters are you buying. I just did an engine swap with a reman and switched out the starter to reman denso from Rock Auto. Guess what works no issue. My thought is you were buying some ghetto reman starter.
 
I have the same issue 97 LX450. I thought it was the Viper alarm messing up on random start actions (ignition kill). I too have a new starter, battery checks out fine and this only occurs after extended driving and after keying off it has intermittent single click only attempts. I can fiddle with the key 3 or 4 times (30 secs or so) and it'll fire right up...

I'm installing a dual battery in the near future ( to assist onboard air/ aux lights/ winch) and thought that may assist in trouble shooting any parasitic draining...but I haven't a clue...
 
I solved the issue. Switched a bunch of stuff. Ultimately, the thing that fixed it was removing the original alarm system
 
I solved the issue. Switched a bunch of stuff. Ultimately, the thing that fixed it was removing the original alarm system
Oddly this issue disappeared a couple months but now it has reared its ugly head again. Battery voltage good, starter appears to get power and responds with a chard click on full key turns, all lights-air-radio operate as expected, no delayed start (holding key in start position for extended time).

Does removal of the alarm remove key fob actuation of the door locks? I kinda like that function- never had it on my 94 and it was a PITA delaying entry for others. Also I have remote start too which is convenience. (any way to bypass starter kill on the alarm) But assuming all this mumbo jumbo are areas that can have an issue starting the car. Also, my 97 has a viper alarm, is that stock for the year?
 
Oddly this issue disappeared a couple months but now it has reared its ugly head again. Battery voltage good, starter appears to get power and responds with a chard click on full key turns,
If the starter solenoid is pulling in with a good solid "thunk" and the engine does not crank, the contacts and plunger need to be replaced if this is an OEM Denso unit. There are hundreds of posts regarding this if you search on "starter contacts"
 
If the starter solenoid is pulling in with a good solid "thunk" and the engine does not crank, the contacts and plunger need to be replaced if this is an OEM Denso unit. There are hundreds of posts regarding this if you search on "starter contacts"
Yup the CLUNK is engaging on key turn. And I initially changed starters bc of that exact response- went from Denso to a new Ac Delco cold climate version starter- I found some part num on here explaining it was the bigger starter for cold weather (which is now experiencing the same CLUNK and no other action). I did also buy a new refurbed Denso that I plan to swap back in but it just seems odd to me that the new starter is also not actioning into rotation.

I'm just curious if anything else stops the starter from rotation. once it is extended and engaged on the flywheel
 
Yup the CLUNK is engaging on key turn. And I initially changed starters bc of that exact response- went from Denso to a new Ac Delco cold climate version starter- I found some part num on here explaining it was the bigger starter for cold weather (which is now experiencing the same CLUNK and no other action). I did also buy a new refurbed Denso that I plan to swap back in but it just seems odd to me that the new starter is also not actioning into rotation.

I'm just curious if anything else stops the starter from rotation. once it is extended and engaged on the flywheel

The starter will not extend and engage onto the flywheel if it is not spinning...

Would not be the first time a refurb starter fails, all depends on the refurb 'quality'.

cheers,
george.
 
Yup the CLUNK is engaging on key turn. And I initially changed starters bc of that exact response- went from Denso to a new Ac Delco cold climate version starter- I found some part num on here explaining it was the bigger starter for cold weather (which is now experiencing the same CLUNK and no other action). I did also buy a new refurbed Denso that I plan to swap back in but it just seems odd to me that the new starter is also not actioning into rotation.

I'm just curious if anything else stops the starter from rotation. once it is extended and engaged on the flywheel
If the solenoid is pulling in, then the only thing preventing the starter motor from turning is the lack of +12 to the motor. The large lug on the starter is connected directly to the battery positive terminal. Assuming that is making good contact, the only other components are the plunger and the contacts that feed the +12 from the lug to the motor.
 

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