Cleaning out a carb...without screwing it up

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Oct 9, 2008
Threads
94
Messages
1,940
Location
Lake Arrowhead, CA (was), Rocky Top, TN (is)
I posted the problem I had with my 40 bucking on inclines here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/266178-40-bucks-inclines-help.html

If you read the thread you'll find that I found a ton of junk in the fuel filter. The truck was running like a top, but now it has no top end power and rough idle. I'm thinking that some of the junk got past the filter and into the carb. :mad:

I'm running a stock carb that was just rebuilt by Mark A. I don't want to screw up the carb or any of the adjustments made by Mark.....

Can someone explain to me the best way to clean out the carb without causing even more probs?

I know of the "farmer's method" of revving the engine and then slapping your hand (or something flat) over the carb to create vaccuum to clear the jets (hopefully). Are there any other methods that you guys would suggest? :confused: Thanks in advance....
 
I'd try a bottle or two of Lucas fuel injection treatment in the tank before getting all caveman on it.
 
Thanks guys. I'll look for Jim C's thread on trail cleaning.

Texx - Yeah, I'll try something like that before I go "caveman" - that's good - LOL!

I'll start with the farmer method fj404life and see what happens....

Degnol - Thanks for the link - I'll check it out....
 
The "Okie rebuild" is probably not going to help you if you have grit and particulate matter in your fuel bowl. It is more for the dried on residue that accumulates in the ports and vents from repeated fuel evaporation.

It is not hard to pull off the top cover along with the fload assembly and clean out the bowl. Just make sure that you don't lose the accelator pump plug, spring and ball assembly by taping them down. They you can spray the bowl with carb cleaner and compressed air to get the grit and dirt out.
 
Removing the top cover take digital photos beforehand of the linkages, you'll be glad you did. Disconnet only one end of the linkage rods if possible to make reaasembly easier. If you take the carb off the truck, don't invert the carb body with the top cover off unless prepared to catch the stopper, brass weight and ball. They can fall out.:eek:

Best to disassemble on a table with a towel over it so as not to have a hard work surface. That way when things fall out they won't bounce and fly off the table.:crybaby:
 
Pin_head - You're right the "Okie rebuild" probably won't help in this instance. I've had the carb off a number of times and so I don't think I'll have any problem doing what you've described.

igotta40 - I thank God for digital cameras - they've saved my bacon a number of times when I go to hook things back up....a great time (and sanity) saver. Thanks for the tips...

FJ40Jim - Thanks for the link....I'll definitely give it a try!

:beer::beer::beer: to you all! I'll post my findings and results once I climb under the hood....
 
Well, I've put 3 tanks of premium gas through the truck while I've been plowing over the last few days and whatever was hanging up the carb seems to have cleared itself. Idle is good (though starts are a little tougher than I'd like) and throttle response is good. I have to wait for the roads to melt a bit more before I can really open it up to see about power on the top end, but for now it's running well. Thanks for the tips guys!
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom