Cleaned my cooling system: the full scoop... (1 Viewer)

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Nice write up E, you certainly hit all bases and then some for complete DIY cooling system cleaning,

I know some say (maybe correctly) that it is of no importance, but I am curious what the voltage is after the flush? Yours was one of the few measurements on old coolant and was relativity high. I would be interested to know if it dropped with new coolant.
 
whoah!
I forgot about that!
Yes, I'll check the voltage and see if there is any difference...
thanks for reminding me, RT
Eric
 
Hey all back from vacation and saw this one.
as to leaving the tee in, my good freind had a real serious issue with one on his 98 mustang. of course this is a 302 charged with an intercooler but he was having a air leak at the tee and it was allowing air into the system and putting it back in the overflow tank. just my .02 but any coupling in the cooling system that doesnt need to be there should be removed. the less places to leak the better.
Dave
 
Hi Dave:
true in general, the fewer unnecessary gizmos, the better.
As far as sucking air in... well... unlikely if put in right with a gasket (none came with kit IIRC) I would think, esp. considering the system is pressurized when hot...
E
 
Damnit, this and the other radiator thread jinxed me.

I blew out the top of my radiator on the way home from work.

AHHHHHH
 
This thread and the others with the blown head gaskets got me in a panic too. I bought the cruiser a year-and-a-half ago and havn't done this PM yet.

Fearing the worst I got the flush kit, 6 gallons of distilled and anti-freeze (am using Shell Rotella ELC but will not go 600,000 mi between changes. sorry Dan didn't think shipping would have made it worth it to get anti-freeze from you.)

Like just about any other job I've done on this vehicle - I was pleasantly surprised... There was no sign of sludge anywhere. Not in what I drained from the radiator, block or reservior. I could see no signs of sludge in the radiator by sight either.

After the inspection I decided top take a different approach. Rather than possible contaminate the radiator with tap - I simply flushed twice using the distilled water I had bought. The second time the water appeared to leave as clean as as it went in. Filled it up with coolant, buttoned it back up and all is well.

I did notice that there was considerably less noise at the water pump than there had been before.

Using this method I was able to hammer it out in three hours.
 
[quote author=DanKunz link=board=2;threadid=15351;start=msg148469#msg148469 date=1083377583]
Damnit, this and the other radiator thread jinxed me.

I blew out the top of my radiator on the way home from work.

AHHHHHH
[/quote]

I was there a month ago, Dan -- the replace was NOT quick -- :)

e
 
the first replacement went in well...when it was found to have a hole...well.

I am done now, it is fixed...blah.
 
I planning on doing the flush and the PHH this weekend with a fellow mudder. After reading all this I must admit that I'm feeling a little overwhelmed. I think I'd rather do a birf job than all this flushing ect... shessh...

Right now I'm stuck trying to find the heater inlet hose to attach the drain hose for when flushing the heaters. I guess I'll check the FSM.
 
what the heck, my photos not good enough for ya??? :whoops:
E
 
e999 - your photos are great but that looks like too much work to use PVC pipe ect.... I just want to flush the thing and not spend all day on it. :rolleyes:

Not to mention the time to make the gadgets ect... You've got too much time on your hands. I figure a guy should be able to start flushing in 30 min including connecting hoses ect...

Your system look very nice but I need something quick and dirty.
 
btw, brought the coolant to the local community hazardous waste place. They gave me a bunch of these nifty oil catch containers for my good deed. Yea! Also said that it's not a good idea to put petroleum products in plastic milk bottles, that the bottles would self-destruct after a while (not good in the back of the truck or the garage, eh...?). Thought I should mention that for those of you who collect milk bottles like me. (Got a case of them filled with deionized water that I take along when going to the boonies - for rad or the kids, hmmm... wonder which first in an emergency? :D.)
E

added: Riley, was kidding ya. The inlet hoses to the heaters are the ones going from the heater valve to the firewall, above the outlet one that I used, it's the one that has the 3 shiny new hose clamp on, making a U...
Really, there is no need to do any backflushing... head gaskets are not very expensive... :D :D
 
I see it now. thanks. The Grey comment threw me. It didn't look grey to me from here but now I see it.

I guess I'm off to do some shopping.
 
darn, all the photos were lost in the changeover to the new software, apparently.
So, I added them all back up since folks were asking about them.
Some weird characters appeared too, so tried to remove those...
sheesh...
HTH
Eric
 
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Thanks Eric :)
 
one more note to address a discussion in another thread:

guys, I don't get all this about my description being overwhelming or somethin'. I meant it to be a detailed description of what I did and I tried to explain why I did what I did so it becomes clearer what everything is supposed to do. Basically trying to give you tools to make informed decision as to the likely outcomes. Didn't mean to scare anybody.

You can do as little or as much as you want. Just decide what goal you want to achieve and do that part.

But be aware that you won't get a full result for a quick job. Basically, what I did is what I think gave me the results I wanted to achieve (including some testing admittedly). Next time it'll be faster but I won't cut many corners. My overall conclusion is that it simply takes some work and time to get all the old stuff out. Your decision is basically how much you are willing to leave in and adjust the procedure accordingly.

just my 2c

Eric
 
Important Warning

This is truly an awesome thread, thanks E, but, just in the hope it helps, I would discourage the use of deionized water which is definitely different from distilled water. As many already know, distilled water is simply water that has been boiled up and the steam collected. When the steam is collected, all the precipitates and contaminants are avoided and you end up with pure H2O. However, deionized water is really an "unstable" (not an accurate term really but go with it) water and is much more reactive in the presence of metals. Since you have water that is actively searching for ionization, it accomplishes this by attacking the metals in the system. It is true that some firms purposely put deionized water in the 50/50 antifreeze mixtures that they produce but in this case they are also adding something to conteract the aggressiveness of the water searching for ions to reionize itself! If we were to add something for the same purpose, we would add a salt (corrosion inhibitor), such as potassium sulfate. Unfortunately this skews the pH of the mixture and it is never a good thing to change the chemistry of the Toyota Red. Remember that pure, deionized water is looking for ions, and it will take them out of the aluminum in your radiator and your head, before you can say “carboxylates." HTH :cheers:
 
From elsewhere on the web:

"So, it is very true that very pure water is very corrosive. Probably the liquid form of the old saw "nature abhors a vacuum". However, the coolant contains "lots" of dissolved materials and this satisfies the "need" the water has to dissolve something. Don't know whether you get that question about distilled or deionized water but I have gotten it lots of times even from engineers in auto plants.

Hope this helps.
Regards,
John J. Conville

John Conville was manager of Antifreeze R&D for BASF in the US for about 15 years."
 
From Penray, a manufacture of coolant additives - they recommend deionized water as the best choice, other than using coolant pre diluted from the manufacturer:

"Category: Coolants
Bulletin No. 99.023
Date: 9/20/99

Introduction:
Penray frequently is asked to recommend practices relative to water selection for the blending of engine coolant. ASTM publishes the following recommendation, and a discussion follows.

ASTM Water Quality Recommendation (from D-4985):








Discussion:


Engine coolant is a mixture of antifreeze and water, usually 50% each. ASTM specs require the antifreeze be formulated so that when it is mixed with water at 50%, the freeze point is no higher than -34°F (-37°C). A great deal of work and expense goes into the formulation of quality antifreeze. Reputable companies use high quality ethylene glycol, and purchase deionized water and chemicals that are certified to be low in contaminants, such as chloride, to blend the anti corrosion properties into the finished product. Frequently, the effort seems somewhat wasted when the end user indiscriminately uses water unsuitable for engine coolant to blend with the antifreeze.

Probably the poorest choice of blending water is well water. The minerals, when introduced into engine coolant are the source of several concerns.

Calcium: combines in engine coolant to form scale on hot heat exchange surfaces. Scale is an efficient insulator, and the result is localized engine overheating that can cause component failure.

Magnesium: Magnesium also can form scale, creating localized overheating and warped engine heads. It is the second of the two components (with calcium) measured to determine the degree of "water hardness". Water that contains calcium and magnesium is defined as "hard"; the concentration of the two chemicals combined determines the level of hardness.

Silicate: In water, silicate would be detected as the result of sand, not sodium silicate inhibitor. Sand is frequently found in cooling systems, and is associated with premature wear due to abrasion in various areas of the cooling system.

Chloride: Municipal drinking water most often is, in fact, acceptable for engine coolant. A water test can determine the quality of municipal water. Nevertheless, most municipal waters contain chlorine, resulting in the formation of chlorides in the coolant. Chlorides are aggressive to aluminum.

Oxygen: Anyone who has tried deionized water knows it tastes nasty. This is due to its lack of oxygen. Oxygen contributes tremendously to metal corrosion and depletion of inhibitors. City water is full of oxygen making it suitable for drinking and keeping pet fish. Water with low oxygen levels is preferable for coolant.

Therefore, the argument for distilled or deionized water is made on the basis that such water contains fewer reactive chemicals, resulting in optimum coolant life and performance. It is also true that Penray antifreeze chemistry is formulated with certain safeguard additives chosen to address typical city water. This is another "good - better - best" choice; relating city water, shop blending DI water, and prediluted coolant from a blending plant representing the three quality choices. No one recommends using well water for engine coolant."
 
Rich,

Maybe I'm reading the 99.203 bulletin wrong but is seems they are considering distilled water and deionized water the same.

-B-
 

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