City Racer Carburetor in a 1984 desmogged 60

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So to close the loop on this deal.

This truck never ran right after I did the vacuum diagram properly

Turns out the vacuum nipple at the base of the carburetor is not drawing vacuum and the dizzy was not advancing.

I plugged that base and used one of the non-used nipples on the manifold filter that is drawing vacuum.

Smoothed right out.

Now to get another AC idle up solenoid and everything will be working
 
You used manifold vacuum for the vacuum advance ? Manifold vacuum sucks the opposite of ported vacuum, which is necessary for the advancer to work.

You can retrofit a later (FJ62 or 80 series) VSV to actuate the 60 series AC idle up dash pot - just have to either find a pigtail or wire it in using spade terminals.
 
Spike Strip said:
You used manifold vacuum for the vacuum advance ? Manifold vacuum sucks the opposite of ported vacuum, which is necessary for the advancer to work.
Click to expand...

Man. Lost me again (surprise)

Can you explain this? There was no vacuum at idle at all from the carb plate nipple.

I moved it to one of these.

IMG_9487.webp


Worked great.
 
wngrog said:
Now to get another AC idle up solenoid and everything will be working
Click to expand...
I've got one in my garage. Lmk if you want it for shipping. I'd have to look up how to test it.
 
wngrog said:
So to close the loop on this deal.

This truck never ran right after I did the vacuum diagram properly

Turns out the vacuum nipple at the base of the carburetor is not drawing vacuum and the dizzy was not advancing.

I plugged that base and used one of the non-used nipples on the manifold filter that is drawing vacuum.

Smoothed right out.

Now to get another AC idle up solenoid and everything will be working
Click to expand...
On the carb plate? As in the hard pipe that sticks upward from the carb insulator? That would go to your VCV on the driver side for the evap system.
The vac advance on your diz (inner port is primary) would go to the vac adv on the back side of the carb facing the valve cover. I'd have to look up which of the four but I know it's one of the two closest to the firewall. I think the one most close to the firewall that's hard to see but you can feel it (not the bent one, but I could be remembering wrong). And I'm realizing this is a cityracer carb so you only have one port onthe back of that carb huh?
If your primary (15 degrees) vac adv even works on your diz? You can put a mityvac to it , truck not running, and if it holds vac your good. Often they don't work. Secondary (7 degrees) is the outer port.
I believe the gas filter would have a line from the VCV on the diz side. The other two might be capped off depending on what else you have hooked into your system.
 
I'm jumping into the party a little late here, but what the heck-

The distributor inner vacuum advancer (when actuated) advances the timing of the spark a whopping 15 to 16 degrees. The base spec idle mechanical timing is 7° BTDC. If the distributor vac advancer is actuated at idle by connecting it to the manifold vacuum, the engine will be idling with 23° advance. That's WAY off.
The 2F will idle fine like that, (and very fast) but the engine will ping turds if you drive it like that at certain RPMs.

Vacuum advance is only supposed to occur under certain circumstances: not all the time. The vacuum trigger for the advancer to actuate comes from a port in the carburetor called the advancer port. It doesn't get vacuum until the throttle plate is tilted down far enough when -driving-. There will be no vacuum at that port during idle. That's why you can't measure it. On the stock Aisin carb, (not yours) the gas pedal has to be pushed down roughly an inch (estimate) before the advancer port gets vacuum & applies vac to the distributor advancer.

Remove your vac hose for the distributor advance from the gas filter on the manifold where its incorrectly placed & connect it to the carb advancer port.
 
The way both of you in the last two post said to do it is the way I had it and it runs horribly.

Removed the vac advance hose and put it on the gas filter (both the Vsv and dizzy advance on gas filter) and it runs great.

Something is not right.

I tested VSV. I need to test vac advance
 
Also, I'm not arguing. I'm just stating how mine is running.

I took it 40 miles to a friend's house yesterday. I thought the stumble and lack of power was due to the fuel mixture being off. Maybe timing.

I could barely make 50 mph. The truck shook so bad it felt like flat spots on the tires.

When I got there it had literally pushed oil out of the seals on the motor. My truck drips a bit bit this was a lot of oil.

We poked around on it. Then felt the carb vacuum was not working (did not know until reading this that you won't get vacuum at idle) so we grabbed a spare vacuum Port off the gas filter and it smoothed out and ran great. I even sent @HemiAlex a pic of me going 75 mph.

I wiped the oil off and after the drive home it barely leaked any.

I thought it was good to go.

Obviously not.

I just played with it both ways and being honest with myself now, the wrong way I had it may have run better but I can tell it's not right either.

So, the diagrams and pics I posted on page 2 are correct, but my truck has another problem that is not related to vacuum.
 
wngrog said:
Next step is to adjust the fuel mixture screw with some help this afternoon and then check the timing. I'm running a JimC recurved dizzy.

Last will be to get the AC idle up adjusted. It's not working right now but the set screw is backed way out
Click to expand...

Did reinstalling the recurved dizzy occure at the same time as other changes? If your timing is way off, it might be needing the vacuum advance to get it to normal.
 
60Works said:
Did reinstalling the recurved dizzy occure at the same time as other changes? If your timing is way off, it might be needing the vacuum advance to get it to normal.
Click to expand...

No, I've had it on since 2009.
 
I'm gonna get a mityvac and check to see if my advance module on Dizzy is working first.

Then I'm going to baseline the timing.

I'll tell you this thing has always smoked some at startup and after it idles for a long time but after all this it's really smoking up a storm. I may have really toasted it.
 
What color is the smoke? Is it easy to tell if it is blue, white, or black?

I put the same carb on my 84 a few weekends ago and used the vac line set up from this thread. I still need to set fast idle, tune it, and try some other vac line configurations but it is running much better over my dirty stock carb. I only adjusted the idle screw on carb to get a smooth idle at 700 RPM.
 
Yes, you need to check that your timing at idle is at 7* or so and your vac advancer is working. I'm guessing your distributor may be a tooth off.

Manifold vacuum is highest at idle and drops toward zero at wide-open-throttle (WOT)

Ported Vacuum (vacuum sourced above the carb throttle plate) is zero at idle and increases as throttle plate opens and RPMs increase.

As RPM increase, you need more spark advance hence you need the higher vacuum of the ported vac source to move the vacuum advance diaphragm.
 
@wngrog,
City Racer's website says that for 81 and newer 2Fs, the idle solenoid electrical connector needs to be switched out with the connector from the old carb. How did you connect yours?
 
crimdelacrim said:
@wngrog,
City Racer's website says that for 81 and newer 2Fs, the idle solenoid electrical connector needs to be switched out with the connector from the old carb. How did you connect yours?
Click to expand...

Direct wire to switched 12 volt
 
Carb (and ICS) is grounded through the carb body. All you need to do is connect the ICS wire that is 'ON' i.e. has 12V to it when key is in ON/RUN position, to the single wire out of the carb ICS.

I *think* it's the black wire on the harness side of the connector, but not sure. Just put a test light or Multi-meter on it.
 
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