The blue inlet (white on most vcv) is what goes directly to the gas filter on the intake. The other port is going directly to the distributor and vent, with the fresh air port going to the cabin.
City Racer Carburetor in a 1984 desmogged 60
- Thread starter wngrog
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #22
Think of it like an air traffic controller for the air as it vents your distributor. If yours is original, it's more than likely toast. Pull it, test it, replace it if needed.
While you're at it. I would pull all the vacuum lines and start from scratch. Order new lines and download and follow the desmog manual here in the forum someplace. Not only will your cruiser be happier, you'll understand each system much better. I'm willing to help if you need it.
Spacer under the carb ? No it's used but I'll need to check and see where it's routed to
If you want to keep the charcoal purge system, you can do it like this with a t. Your vacuum advance on the distributor should be hooked up to the ported vacuum port on the carb like Hemialex mentioned. When you have it hooked to the three prong gas filter, you are advancing 15 degrees at all RPMs.
If you decide not to keep the charcoal purge, put a cap on the carb spacer port. Run the distributor advance to carb port either way.
If you decide not to keep the charcoal purge, put a cap on the carb spacer port. Run the distributor advance to carb port either way.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #28
Got it and you are right. Mine was toast. I checked it and nothing. I had a second one that did work so I did that.
The Desmog thread is a 1000 page mess and pretty much gets me where I was for the last nine years with a desmogged OEM Carburetor. I dug around it for specific info using this type of carb and there was nothing definitive.
- Thread starter
- #29
That helps a lot.
There's a 24 pg desmog manual avail via PDF that a few put together. It's much less overwhelming as that desmog thread. Also some systems can be eliminated or made less per your location and elevation.
Just thinking out loud-
If you cover that right angle vacuum port and it dies im betting you've got a huge vacuum leak before the carb and that the idle that you've set is based off a false set of pretenses. My money is on a bad seal from the carb to the insulator.
I bet you've got a leak that has invalidated your adjustment settings, so when you cover that port the air leak that is running the truck gets cut off and it dies. I'd cover that port, reset idle and do the lean drop method to start over.
If you cover that right angle vacuum port and it dies im betting you've got a huge vacuum leak before the carb and that the idle that you've set is based off a false set of pretenses. My money is on a bad seal from the carb to the insulator.
I bet you've got a leak that has invalidated your adjustment settings, so when you cover that port the air leak that is running the truck gets cut off and it dies. I'd cover that port, reset idle and do the lean drop method to start over.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #32
@HemiAlex is the man! Passed on some great knowledge this morning. I think I've got it. Got friends coming this afternoon that can help me properly do the idle up method. Running great.
Carb base was tight. Vacuum ports were all wrong.
Carb base was tight. Vacuum ports were all wrong.
- Thread starter
- #33
To close this loop on photos here is the way @HemiAlex had me do it. This is the method that @Trollhole patiently walked him through his.
Air Filter vacuum eliminated
AC Idle up from vacuum at firewall side of manifold to solenoid then to Idle actuator that was transfered from OEM carb
2 of 3 vacuum from vacuum filter at front of manifold capped. The 3rd runs to the top of the VCV (that was tested to work)
Carb isolator vacuum capped.
Both charcoal canister tubes capped at hard line
Air cleaner PCV capped
VCV
black 90* at 4:00 here going to manifold
White 90s opposite each other capped
Straight input pictured here at 10:00 on VCV is to distributor cap
Vacuum advance on side of distributor is to the sole vacuum port on the base of the carb next to the valve cover
Large hose in distributor going to the firewall and filter in the cab
Paper clip test successful
P
Idle smoothly set at 750 rpm
Air Filter vacuum eliminated
AC Idle up from vacuum at firewall side of manifold to solenoid then to Idle actuator that was transfered from OEM carb
2 of 3 vacuum from vacuum filter at front of manifold capped. The 3rd runs to the top of the VCV (that was tested to work)
Carb isolator vacuum capped.
Both charcoal canister tubes capped at hard line
Air cleaner PCV capped
VCV
black 90* at 4:00 here going to manifold
White 90s opposite each other capped
Straight input pictured here at 10:00 on VCV is to distributor cap
Vacuum advance on side of distributor is to the sole vacuum port on the base of the carb next to the valve cover
Large hose in distributor going to the firewall and filter in the cab
Paper clip test successful
P
Idle smoothly set at 750 rpm
- Thread starter
- #34
Next step is to adjust the fuel mixture screw with some help this afternoon and then check the timing. I'm running a JimC recurved dizzy.
Last will be to get the AC idle up adjusted. It's not working right now but the set screw is backed way out
Last will be to get the AC idle up adjusted. It's not working right now but the set screw is backed way out
Good job. The VCV on the distributor as it's plumbed now isn't venting the distributor though...the vacuum from the fuel filter is opening the ports but with two of three capped, there isn't any airflow...this pic shows how it should be.
It looks like you originally had it hooked up correctly.
Time to go re do mine.
I keep vacuum caps, tees and line in the truck. Because old truck reasons.
I keep vacuum caps, tees and line in the truck. Because old truck reasons.
- Thread starter
- #40