Christmas Mud Flaps
- Thread starter tls3601
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- Thread starter
- #2
I may have to mod where my exhaust pipe exits on the passenger side rear, anyone else have to do this?
1911
chupacabra
There is a kit like that available; I bought one, but don't remember now where I got it from. Let me search through my web site book marks and see if I can find it.
You will have to re-route your exhaust to mount the hangers on the frame rails though. I am thinking about hanging mine from under the tail lights somehow.
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
Congrats on the present
I run mine off of my Downey taillight guards
More ideas to mount here:
Toyota TEQ repro mudflaps on an FJ40
I run mine off of my Downey taillight guards
More ideas to mount here:
Toyota TEQ repro mudflaps on an FJ40
1911
chupacabra
That is the one I was thinking of; post #15 in that thread.
Offroad Innovations - Removable Mud Flap Kits
- Thread starter
- #6
Thanks for all the input guys. Any advice on how to run exhaust pipe? Any folks pointing it towards the rear of the vehicle? Thanks
cruiserkev
3 decades in the same FJ40
I made my own FJ40 mounts by cutting down big rig mounts. My tailpipe exits on the drivers side and the flap hangs behind it. Should have bought those nice Toyota ones you've got but chose to make my own flaps. Hope this helps and please forgive the crummy photos.
cruiserkev
3 decades in the same FJ40
Pictures
I wouldn't run the exhaust straight back. Mine used to be straight and I'd get fumes in the cab sometimes. No issues with the side exit.
I wouldn't run the exhaust straight back. Mine used to be straight and I'd get fumes in the cab sometimes. No issues with the side exit.
MOTOV8R
SILVER Star
I used 3/16 1x1 angle iron. Bolt through the flap with some fender washers and then bolt into the bottom of the rear cross member. I think it took less than an hour to make and install. Looks similar to Johnnys setup, but the angle iron extends past the rear cross member so the flaps are centered on the tire. My flaps aren't the fancy TEQ ones though. Here's the best pic I have on my phone.
- Thread starter
- #11
Wondering if those removable units/quick disconnect will bolt up into existing holes on the frame?
- Thread starter
- #12
I am going to order up some of the Aries removable mud flap mounts. I know some folks have had them come off but going to take a chance, can't wait to get those cool Teq flaps on!
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Years ago I collect a couple sets of these skid plates that protected a emissions tank on the 71s with the split back passenger's seat and 72s. The top side has fixed nuts used to bolt it to the top of the wheel well. The bottom bolted to the tank. While you always need to keep the wheel well and rear sill clean something like this would prevent mud from being thrown over the top of the mud flap and land on top of the C channel which is the main reason the rear corners rust out.
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I love those flaps and was gonna order some last year but the $50 shipping killed that deal haha.
Just posting a followup because people seem to be interested in this topic.
I used the big-rig mounts that Cruiserkev posted and reworked them to work on the 40.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D0A7JWI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It took some time, fit/cut/fit/cut... but they turned out nice and STURDY. Also they're easily removable by pulling the cotter-pin and lifting out of the bracket.
Two things, they sit a little high, but that can be fixed by making some sheetmetal hangers, and the metal is tough to cut. Hardened or something. You can get through it with a Sawzall, but a Portaband or chopsaw is much better.
One other thing, the rods are not designed to be horizontal but are angled up a little. Solved that by slotting the hanger brackets.
Anywho, hope this helps someone.
B.
edit: oh yea, had to drill one hole in each side of the frame, and used one existing hole. Not too bad.
View attachment 1617551
I used the big-rig mounts that Cruiserkev posted and reworked them to work on the 40.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D0A7JWI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It took some time, fit/cut/fit/cut... but they turned out nice and STURDY. Also they're easily removable by pulling the cotter-pin and lifting out of the bracket.
Two things, they sit a little high, but that can be fixed by making some sheetmetal hangers, and the metal is tough to cut. Hardened or something. You can get through it with a Sawzall, but a Portaband or chopsaw is much better.
One other thing, the rods are not designed to be horizontal but are angled up a little. Solved that by slotting the hanger brackets.
Anywho, hope this helps someone.
B.
edit: oh yea, had to drill one hole in each side of the frame, and used one existing hole. Not too bad.
View attachment 1617551
- Thread starter
- #16
Looking for opinions on whether to move exhaust pipe in front of passenger side mudflap or behind? What are folks doing?
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
If you have the exhaust behind the mud flap the mud flap is more likely to flip up and hit it. On the back side could attach a rod to allow the flap to only move back and always maintain clearance from the exhaust. Downside is mud can collect on the tail pipe and bake on.
