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Been busy but will get underneath soon and see if I can get any decent photos of the linkage like you requested. I'm liking your shifter mounting plate and I've always liked the looks of the simple and clean lokars.

Thanks!
Id appreciate seeing how you ran that 2/4 wd shift. That is a tough one. Seems that a nut will fit nicely in the notch, and if I can find a tube to sleeve OVER the end to where I could thread a bolt into the nut, it might work nicely to keep it all in place!
That Lokar is a NICE shifter. Im thinking that it might be a bit LONG, but then again, it will prevent me from reaching down to shift too.

Where did you source shift knobs from? I got some 1/2 in round stock for the shifters, and I was thinking that I could thread the ends, but I dont really know where to get the knob from.

Thanks for the help!

Keith
 
I have an artsy family member who I asked to make me some knobs for a christmas present. He started with wooden balls you get at a craftstore and started layering different kinds of paint for depth and then he put many many layers of bartop sealant on them to protect them. I had him inlay some letters and numbers under the sealant.

I've seen different kinds of knobs at auto parts stores that have a healthy ricer bolt-on section. I suggest having the knobs around when you set up the shift levers so that you'll know how far apart they need to be and not interfere with each other. You could get creative and use some kind of car part or cheap tool welded to the end of the lever. The possibilities are endless!
 
I have an artsy family member who I asked to make me some knobs for a christmas present. He started with wooden balls you get at a craftstore and started layering different kinds of paint for depth and then he put many many layers of bartop sealant on them to protect them. I had him inlay some letters and numbers under the sealant.

I've seen different kinds of knobs at auto parts stores that have a healthy ricer bolt-on section. I suggest having the knobs around when you set up the shift levers so that you'll know how far apart they need to be and not interfere with each other. You could get creative and use some kind of car part or cheap tool welded to the end of the lever. The possibilities are endless!

Did you see any problems with the shifters that I came up with?
Anything glaringly wrong?

Good idea looking around for some novelty items to stick on there.
Didnt think of that!
 
Are you still in need of some jack stands
...i have some you can use

Thanks David, but I have plenty now!

I appreciate the offer.

thanks for stopping by the other day. It was great to put a face with a name!

K
 
Where did you source shift knobs from? I got some 1/2 in round stock for the shifters, and I was thinking that I could thread the ends, but I dont really know where to get the knob from.

Thanks for the help!

Keith
My son can turn a set of hardwood knobs for you, he already made a set for me.
 
My son can turn a set of hardwood knobs for you, he already made a set for me.

Thanks Dan...
I think Im gonna stick with the Aluminum handle theme along with the Lokar knob. Summit sells Al. Knobs for like 10 bucks for a basic design. Auto Zone also sells some pretty cool 44 magnum firearm type handles with a little more BLING for 19 bucks.:grinpimp:
 
Shifters....

This has REALLY thrown a WRENCH in my progress to say the least!

Here is what I have so far.
the High/Low shift on the 19 spline was just screwing around trying to find the best approach. If I set the link toward the bottom, the throw is WAAAAAY far forward. Im NOT sure that Ill be able to line all three up.

If anyone has any suggestions for me, PLEASE let me know. Im missing something.
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i have some 1" square material you can use to make individual seat mounts,, and you wont have to work around the drivers passenger shared seat mounts,, but what you have going looks good
 
i have some 1" square material you can use to make individual seat mounts,, and you wont have to work around the drivers passenger shared seat mounts,, but what you have going looks good

Thanks David!
My logic with the seat mounts being there, is that if I can clear that set up, Ill most likely be able to clear most anything else that Ill build. Im gonna TRY not to deviate too far away from the stock design TOO MUCH. As you had seen, the center section will have to go away. Then again...what do I know. This project takes ITS OWN direction weather I want it to or not.

Might take you up on the 1 in square stock though in exchange for some welding on your SOA.

BTW, Summit has those spring perches I was talking about. Theyre 16 bucks a piece for a 3 in axle tube.

K
 
i got the tubing for making a roof rack, but both nate and myself came up with racks so i dont have much use for it , i was looking through summit.com and found
some mopar perches for 3" housing 2,5" springs for $13 each is that the right set . also i think i can reuse my rear spring plates just cut the shock bolts off,and i have plates for the front. ill get some new brake lines, ubolts ill hit up pnp for a cv drive shaft for the rear. we might be set
 
Keith,

Can you take the shifter rod/upright and either bend it back or offset it back so that your not reaching under the dash to shift it? Think old Ford truck 4speed shifter. Those things went up under the dash before they went down into the tranny. Also Marlin used to sell offset shifters for mini-truck t-cases, just to give you an idea.

Jack
 
Shifters....

This has REALLY thrown a WRENCH in my progress to say the least!

Here is what I have so far.
the High/Low shift on the 19 spline was just screwing around trying to find the best approach. If I set the link toward the bottom, the throw is WAAAAAY far forward. Im NOT sure that Ill be able to line all three up.

If anyone has any suggestions for me, PLEASE let me know. Im missing something.

I'd only worry about getting them to line up when in the DD position.

You can alter the shifter throw by increasing the distance between the pivot point and linkage mount hole on your shifters. It's about the distance the arch of travel covers and that changes depending on how close or far you are from the pivot point. This can also give you some mechanial advantage and reduce the effort needed to engage the gears; it's kinda like using a longer rachet to loosen a tight bolt. Are you around tomorrow morning for a phone call? It's all going to come together very soon, you're doing some good trials.

BTW with the 203 bracket turned up the way you have it pictured when it's facing forward it will be in L.
 
I'd only worry about getting them to line up when in the DD position.

You can alter the shifter throw by increasing the distance between the pivot point and linkage mount hole on your shifters. It's about the distance the arch of travel covers and that changes depending on how close or far you are from the pivot point. This can also give you some mechanial advantage and reduce the effort needed to engage the gears; it's kinda like using a longer rachet to loosen a tight bolt. Are you around tomorrow morning for a phone call? It's all going to come together very soon, you're doing some good trials.

BTW with the 203 bracket turned up the way you have it pictured when it's facing forward it will be in L.

WOW!
So first off...I have the 203 reversed!? That actually will help me...(I think).
Next, are you saying that if I extend the rod end OUT toward the front of the rig (in the position that its currently in), I can DECREASE the over all THROW of the shifter? I was actually gonna try and tack on a piece to see how that would work, cuz I was thinking that myself.
I Go to the gym in the AM and will be home around 9 or 10. I am on heart call at the hospital, so that can throw a wrench in anything.

They have you working again on the weekend!?

Thanks for that info, ESPECIALLY the orientation of H and L on the 203!
 
Keith,

Can you take the shifter rod/upright and either bend it back or offset it back so that your not reaching under the dash to shift it? Think old Ford truck 4speed shifter. Those things went up under the dash before they went down into the tranny. Also Marlin used to sell offset shifters for mini-truck t-cases, just to give you an idea.

Jack

Jack,
At this point everything is just tacked in, so I havent bent anything yet, nor decided on the height and such. So, yes...I believe that I can bend it back. However, with the position of the 203 that Boots just informed me of....Might change things.
I WANT this DONE this weekend!!!!!!! Im SICK of looking at this right now.

Thanks for the help and input!
 
i got the tubing for making a roof rack, but both nate and myself came up with racks so i dont have much use for it , i was looking through summit.com and found
some mopar perches for 3" housing 2,5" springs for $13 each is that the right set . also i think i can reuse my rear spring plates just cut the shock bolts off,and i have plates for the front. ill get some new brake lines, ubolts ill hit up pnp for a cv drive shaft for the rear. we might be set

I wouldnt re use u bolts if I were you.
Thats just me though.
For the perches, measure the width of the springs and that should give you an idea as to wether or not those perches will work. I think they will, but double check.
 
WOW!
So first off...I have the 203 reversed!? That actually will help me...(I think).
Next, are you saying that if I extend the rod end OUT toward the front of the rig (in the position that its currently in), I can DECREASE the over all THROW of the shifter? I was actually gonna try and tack on a piece to see how that would work, cuz I was thinking that myself.
I Go to the gym in the AM and will be home around 9 or 10. I am on heart call at the hospital, so that can throw a wrench in anything.

They have you working again on the weekend!?

Thanks for that info, ESPECIALLY the orientation of H and L on the 203!

I don't have a normal M-F work week so I work every saturday actually.

I'm not sure we're on the same page yet so I'll try and call after 10am. Hopefully you'll have working shifters by Monday.
 
Boots,
Here's what we talked about on the phone today...
I ended up 90* ing off the high low bracket, and moved the link point back some to free up some space.
Works decent, but Im getting a LOT of play that Im NOT liking.
The tubing that I used is just a bit bigger ID than 1/2 in, and its making things a little wobbly, so Ill have to find a solution for that. I hit up napa today to see if they had anything, but no go. I see what you mean not by as little play as possible.
So I need to find a new sleeve to run the bolt through that will keep everything snug. Im starting to hate this part!

Here are the pics so far.

Thanks again for the call and all the help.
The wife was summoning me...didnt mean to abruptly get off the phone w/ you.:o

K
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