Builds Chicago builds a 40 (1 Viewer)

[boots4]

Thanks boots...
you bring up another point that I didnt consider...is it better to mount the converter to the flywheel FIRST, or to the trans first?
Seems that itll be a ***** bolting the converter to the flywheel once IN the trans?!

Orange is right!

I didn't clarify when to bolt up the t.converter to the flywheel but that is AFTER the t.converter is installed in the tranny and the tranny is bolted to the engine. I've done it several times now so I assumed it made sense (obviously it didn't), hope it's clear as mud now.

 

[EWheeler]

Hey E wheeler!
The local autozone sells this for 114 buck with core, and 137 w/o core. Gonna order it toady if I have a chance.

Thanks for the tip on that! A LOT cheaper than I expected to find!

That is awesome. Living in the middle of the Rockies has it's perks, and cheap and readily available autoparts to feed my addiction is not one of them. I'd be willing to bet that is the first, and maybe the last thing that will come in under budget on this build!!

 

[chicago]

Did you read my reply above?????


The converter has to get installed onto the trans, NOT the flexplate. You need to get 3 sets of splines engaged to seat the converter all the way. No way in he'll your gonna do that by bolting it to the flexplate first.

One quart of ATF in the converter is more than enough.

I did read your post. Knowing that you were a trans guy of course. However I was unsure as to weather or not the torque converter bolted to the flex plate FIRST, then engage the trans behind it using the procedure you described. I didint know any better as I have never done this before.

The guide pins are a GREAT idea!

 

[chicago]

Orange is right!

I didn't clarify when to bolt up the t.converter to the flywheel but that is AFTER the t.converter is installed in the tranny and the tranny is bolted to the engine. I've done it several times now so I assumed it made sense (obviously it didn't), hope it's clear as mud now.

HAHA! In reading your thread, it seems that you HAVE been though this procedure a LOT!

Seems like its gonna be a MO FO getting the TC bolted to the back of the flex plate....
If it were easy...EVERYONE would be doing this I guess.

 

[orangefj45]

HAHA! In reading your thread, it seems that you HAVE been though this procedure a LOT!

Seems like its gonna be a MO FO getting the TC bolted to the back of the flex plate....
If it were easy...EVERYONE would be doing this I guess.

The converter is easy. Get all your bolts started but leave them about 1/2 turn loose. Then take them out one at a time, put a dab of blue loctite in them and tighten them down to proper spec. Repeat process unroll they're all tight. I've done this more times than I can remember and never had an issue.
If you try to tighten the bolts up right away then it can and will be a pita to get them all started properly.

Hth

georg

 

[chicago]

The converter is easy. Get all your bolts started but leave them about 1/2 turn loose. Then take them out one at a time, put a dab of blue loctite in them and tighten them down to proper spec. Repeat process unroll they're all tight. I've done this more times than I can remember and never had an issue.
If you try to tighten the bolts up right away then it can and will be a pita to get them all started properly.

Hth

georg

It does! Thanks Georg!
Now if I can only find a GAWD DANM flex plate bolt!
Went to GM today...they gave me some bolts they SAID were the correct ones for my 5.3....Get home and get my grubs on, go to thread in the bolt...its the WRONG THREAD!!!!!!
I didnt really check it too hard, so its partially my fault...
Im gonna hit up Reno auto wreckers tomorrow!

But I did get the torque converter filled with 1 quart of trans fluid!
You werent kidding that it takes time to do that! HOLY CRAP!

 

[chicago]

My J20 gear box came today!!!!!
All warm and fuzzy looking at it!

 

[rusty_tlc]

My J20 gear box came today!!!!!
All warm and fuzzy looking at it!

Kind of like a puppy huh?

 

[chicago]

Got and unexpected day off today and got a LOT done!
Finished the assembly of the t cases with the help of Cruiserdrews shims (thanks brother...I used a single 5 shim and will order a replacement tomorrow and send em back!). The spec is 21.4 - 13 in lbs. With the shim that I used, I got 21 in lbs. Any more or less on the shim thickness, it was either too tight or too loose...So 21 in lbs it is.
Also got the trans, set up and mounted. As stated by orangeFJ45, the converter bolts were CAKE. All I had to do was pull the starter and I had easy access to install and torque. Got the VSS and reluctor ring set up in the tail housing, then pulled the tub, then set the motor and trans into the rig. I made a temporary x member out of angle iron to keep the position and hold the trans up and welded it to the frame allowing access to the mounting points for the trans.

 

[chicago]

A few more of the motor postion...
The bottom of the 700R adapter (on the very tail of the trans) is DEAD EVEN with the bottom of the frame.
I measured for the drive shaft length from where everything sits right now...Id have a 14 in DS (including the 17 in of the doubler set up). Im thinking that this set up will work JUST FINE! With using the flipped 60 springs, ruff perches and relocating the hangers back some....Im of the opinion that it will be plenty and not even have to hang the rear hanger off the bumper.

 

[chicago]

Next is to build the x member before I mount the dual cases...
Any help on this would be appreciated. Im also gonna post a separate thread on this...
Wanna keep it as high and tight as possible. Would 1/2 in plate steel be strong enough to support the contraption? Also, I DO NOT have a bender...yet...so any thing I can do without a bender would be awesome.
Ill be using some sort of bushing/ mount under the mounting point and hard mounting at the frame.
Anyone have any thoughts of welding in the frame at the edges for rigidity? Have heard that this will keep the flex down?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Glad I could help in some small way with this epic build. You are at least the 5th person to use that shim pack other than me.

Glad it went together OK.

Could you post a side view so we can estimate how short your shaft will be?

 

[chicago]

Glad I could help in some small way with this epic build. You are at least the 5th person to use that shim pack other than me.

Glad it went together OK.

Could you post a side view so we can estimate how short your shaft will be?

It took a good couple of hours to get the pre load set...Back and forth....I really appreciate that. That saved me a TON!

Ill get a side view tomorrow or this weekend when I go back out there. I think the shaft length is gonna be pretty good. Im not worried any more a least.

 

[handcannon]

Looking good! X2 on the side view pics. On your 14" driveshaft, where is your rear axle at, how far back from stock location? I'm a visual person, this really helps me "see" where I'm going to be at when I can get enough of the green stuff to get to the motor swap part. My plans are almost the same as yours; 700R4, 203 doubler, Toy TC, and (the big difference) a 6.2 diesel.

Don

 

[chicago]

Looking good! X2 on the side view pics. On your 14" driveshaft, where is your rear axle at, how far back from stock location? I'm a visual person, this really helps me "see" where I'm going to be at when I can get enough of the green stuff to get to the motor swap part. My plans are almost the same as yours; 700R4, 203 doubler, Toy TC, and (the big difference) a 6.2 diesel.

Don

Don. Its IN the stock location where the measurements have been taken from. That is why Im certain that Ill have more than enough (with some axle relocation) to make AT LEAST the 18 in shaft requirement. From the face of the 203 to the face of the rear flange is 17 in. I took a straight edge on the face of the 700R adapter (at the end of the trans) and scribed a line on the frame, then measured from the pinion flange on the rear axle to the line on the frame and it came up with the 14 in shaft length. I was planning on hangin the rear shackle hanger off the rear bumper, not it looks as if I may not even need to do that.

To help...the flange face off the t case sits about 4 in behind that bent factory x member in the pic.
That is gonna have to go away...BTW!

 

[handcannon]

Don. Its IN the stock location where the measurements have been taken from. That is why Im certain that Ill have more than enough (with some axle relocation) to make AT LEAST the 18 in shaft requirement. From the face of the 203 to the face of the rear flange is 17 in. I took a straight edge on the face of the 700R adapter (at the end of the trans) and scribed a line on the frame, then measured from the pinion flange on the rear axle to the line on the frame and it came up with the 14 in shaft length. I was planning on hangin the rear shackle hanger off the rear bumper, not it looks as if I may not even need to do that.

To help...the flange face off the t case sits about 4 in behind that bent factory x member in the pic.
That is gonna have to go away...BTW!

SWEEEETTT!!! That really helps me get things straight in my mind. I was afraid my rear axle would have to be so far back I would need a comp cut rear wheel opening, which I don't like the idea of on something that will be on the highway a lot.

I had already figured the bent factory cross member would have to go.

Don

 

[locrwln1]

Looking good Keith. Glad to hear the rear DL is not going to be a problem.

Jack

 

[chicago]

SWEEEETTT!!! That really helps me get things straight in my mind. I was afraid my rear axle would have to be so far back I would need a comp cut rear wheel opening, which I don't like the idea of on something that will be on the highway a lot.

I had already figured the bent factory cross member would have to go.

Don

Just FYI, I had already planned for the rear axle movement, and had already trimmed the rear fenderwell...

 

[handcannon]

I've already got the rearward movement started with 55 rear springs, but am planning to go a bit more if needed. Just don't want to have to go to an extreme.

Don

 

[chicago]

So I started on the x member fab. Picked up a set of the 203 t case mounts from Summit.
Got to a point, then I thought that I should double check where the drive shaft will go...GLAD I DID! Where I was planning on running the x member would have been dead in the way of the shaft.
Here are the pics of the t cases in place. It sits WWWWAYYYY different than I thought, and it really F*CKED my x member plan. I quite honestly do NOT know what the hell Im gonna do now with it. Really the only option at this point is to run it off the bottom of the frame rail.
Ive been staring (LITERALLY) at this for two days now trying to figure the best way to go about it...
Im thinking that I may run 1/2 in plate (2 or 3 in wide) all the way across and sticking at 90* bracket off each frame rail and just bolt it up that way with a 1/2 in grade 8. There are really NO great options. If anyone has anything better, PLEASE lemme know!