Builds Chicago builds a 40

[Mikesta]

Thanks for the props Mike!
ONLY 5 hours!? Seemed like DAYS doing that! I still have the upper portion that ramps up in the fire wall to do, but IMO that undercoating was the worst of it.

No... thank you. Your thread has reinspired me to get back to work on my junk. Your build is really coming along great.

 

[PhilC64]

Hey Phil...
What ever you just said in the last paragraph....WAAAAAAAY over my head! Im kinda like a hairless gorilla.
So there is the motor to frame ground strap...remind me of what the other grounds are and where they need to be?
I do plan on running new gauges. Havent decided on any, and quite frankly do not know too much about em so if you have any recommendations, feel free.
So what you said above about the US and toyota neg vs pos circuits...is that something that Ill have to be concerned with?
Im gonna have to get Rusty over here for this crap and learn me on this!
That is VERY TRUE, that I do have a great deal of support both locally and elsewhere! 4 wheelers in general always seem willing to help, especially cruiser folks!

I'd put a ground strap from motor to frame and another one from the tub body to frame. That should be sufficient for you. As far as the switching goes, just wire them up like you would normally. You're putting in a new harness so you can wire it the way you'd like. I mentioned the negative switching because when you look at a Toyota wiring schematic that is all they used. It's something to keep in mind if you're going to follow the schematic.

Gauges are a personal choice. There are an awful lot of them out there and a lot of styles to choose from. I scored a set of Teleflex Marine gauges here on Mud for a decent price and used them. I even made my own gauge panel to mount them.

 

[chicago]

I'd put a ground strap from motor to frame and another one from the tub body to frame. That should be sufficient for you. As far as the switching goes, just wire them up like you would normally. You're putting in a new harness so you can wire it the way you'd like. I mentioned the negative switching because when you look at a Toyota wiring schematic that is all they used. It's something to keep in mind if you're going to follow the schematic.

Gauges are a personal choice. There are an awful lot of them out there and a lot of styles to choose from. I scored a set of Teleflex Marine gauges here on Mud for a decent price and used them. I even made my own gauge panel to mount them.

Okay, so TWO ground straps...AWESOME!
I would assume that they would need to be affixed to bare metal?
I was diggin through the Summit catalog...some of those gauges are S P E N D Y!!!!!!!!!!
Are there any advantages to one vs. the other? Anything in particular that i should be looking for/ stay away from?
Would the stock gauges work? IIRC, there was an issue with the volt vs. amps for the battery gauge?

Thanks for the help!
This is really good stuff youre schoolin me on!

 

[PhilC64]

I'm not aware of any gauge sets that one shouldn't use. Like I said, it's a matter of personal preference. Most of the aftermarket gauge sets out there give you a fuel gauge. You'll have to use a universal sender in your tank to make that function correctly. I'm not going anywhere near the Ammeter vs. Voltmeter argument. I stuck with a voltmeter to make things easier on myself. I'm running a GM alternator on mine and it would peg the original ammeter just idling. All of the meter info is in the 40 FAQ.

Mind you, all the info I gave is from a White Sox Fan.

 

[chicago]

[QUOTE

Mind you, all the info I gave is from a White Sox Fan. [/QUOTE]

Goes to show you how smart i am! My mantra is..."NEXT YEAR..."
However, the cubs have been a LIFE LONG affliction with consistently, disappointing results (as you know). SOOOO, I consider it to be a BIRTH DEFECT!

Where are you at in the south side? Based on the affiliation, Id assume you are on the s. side somewhere...

Back on topic...I should probably go ahead and pick up the cheap universal chassi 12 v harness then? It seems that there is no real advantage to spending an extra 200 bucks on the painless crusier harness.

As mentioned, I have the stock harness in tact, at least in the gauges and most of the helm wiring...The rear blinker and tail lights are questionable.

Thanks again!

 

[mrqtipp]

Great build

I am not an expert by any means but I have wired several 40's with different aftermarket harness.

EZ wiring is half the price as painless and just as good

Wiring Harness

You have to use your ends/pig tails for several TLC switches etc

I like autometer. The gas gauge comes with a new sending unit and is easily modified and works great.

You can use a glove box door as your intrument panel or as a go by. We had several intrument panels made (pictured below) if you need one.....


my 2 cents

keep up the great work



My old OEM harness















Just a thought

Painless Performance Scout And Land Cruiser Chassis Harness - SummitRacing.com

Anyone use this?
A bit pricey, but if it would simplify the wiring process it might be worth it.
We cover a couple different chassis wiring companies on Pg 2 of this thread, but Im a little worried about the adapting the plugs.
Also, If I were to get one of these aftermarket harnesses and the DID NOT have a provision for a elec. fuel pump, could I ADD one?

Looking for opinions!

Thanks,

Keith

 

[rusty_tlc]

Okay, so TWO ground straps...AWESOME!
I would assume that they would need to be affixed to bare metal?
I was diggin through the Summit catalog...some of those gauges are S P E N D Y!!!!!!!!!!
Are there any advantages to one vs. the other? Anything in particular that i should be looking for/ stay away from?
Would the stock gauges work? IIRC, there was an issue with the volt vs. amps for the battery gauge?

Thanks for the help!
This is really good stuff youre schoolin me on!

As long as the bolt threads are clean you shouldn't need to strip the paint on the frame side. On the body side you will want to either strip the paint or use star washers that will cut through the paint to bare metal. Once you have everything together and working I'd hit all the connections with a shot of undercoating or battery terminal protector. You might also need to add a ground wires from the front fenders to the body for the signal lights. I don't remember if they have a ground wire or not.

The stock ammeter is designed for a 45A alternator, ALL the alternator output goes through the ammeter. Chevy ammeters generally have at least 95A output, more than twice the current. If you run that much current through the factory ammeter you will be very luck not to smoke it, the wires leading to it or both.

There is a pretty heated debate about voltmeters vs ammeters. That discussion is probably better left to greater minds than mine. Suffice it to say that virtually all new cars have voltmeters rather than ammeters.

 

[PhilC64]

Goes to show you how smart i am! My mantra is..."NEXT YEAR..."
However, the cubs have been a LIFE LONG affliction with consistently, disappointing results (as you know). SOOOO, I consider it to be a BIRTH DEFECT!

Where are you at in the south side? Based on the affiliation, Id assume you are on the s. side somewhere...

Back on topic...I should probably go ahead and pick up the cheap universal chassi 12 v harness then? It seems that there is no real advantage to spending an extra 200 bucks on the painless crusier harness.

As mentioned, I have the stock harness in tact, at least in the gauges and most of the helm wiring...The rear blinker and tail lights are questionable.

Thanks again!

I was born in Bridgeport but have lived on the North Side for the last 20+ years. The bride gets a nosebleed south of Fullerton.

Like I said, shop around for the harness. There is nothing wrong with the mid priced ones like those offered by EZ Wiring, etc. Painless just made a name for themselves is all. All the new harnesses should be able to wire up the rear without issue. QTip did the same thing I did and used the glove box door as a template. It works perfectly and you can choose whatever material you'd like as your dash plate. (Hmm lexan with a custom graphic....)

 

[chicago]

The bride gets a nosebleed south of Fullerton.

BWAHAHAHAHAHA!


Now that's some FUNNY SH!T right there!!!!!!

Found another co. today googleing...Seems theyre all pretty much the same with the primary variant being the price from one to another.

Since others here have gone with the EZwire, Ill probably go with that. 12 circuit harness (cant see needing anything more).
Then Ill COAX Rusty TLC over here with some L&L BBQ and some beer and well have a nice evening in the garage.
Maybe He'll bring his missus and her and my wife can drink wine and talk about drapes...

Yeah...Ive got this all figured out!

K

 

[chicago]

Great build

I am not an expert by any means but I have wired several 40's with different aftermarket harness.

EZ wiring is half the price as painless and just as good

Wiring Harness

You have to use your ends/pig tails for several TLC switches etc

I like autometer. The gas gauge comes with a new sending unit and is easily modified and works great.

You can use a glove box door as your intrument panel or as a go by. We had several intrument panels made (pictured below) if you need one.....


my 2 cents

keep up the great work



My old OEM harness



View attachment 381367



View attachment 381368



View attachment 381369



Just a thought

Right on brotha!
I might take you up on that offer!
Thanks for the props, tip and the link!

 

[rusty_tlc]

BWAHAHAHAHAHA!


Now that's some FUNNY SH!T right there!!!!!!

Found another co. today googleing...Seems theyre all pretty much the same with the primary variant being the price from one to another.

Since others here have gone with the EZwire, Ill probably go with that. 12 circuit harness (cant see needing anything more).
Then Ill COAX Rusty TLC over here with some L&L BBQ and some beer and well have a nice evening in the garage.
Maybe He'll bring his missus and her and my wife can drink wine and talk about drapes...

Yeah...Ive got this all figured out!

K

Anytime.

 

[chicago]

Wiring harness came today along with the PCM, MAS and O2's!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Mace]

BTW, I ran EX wiring as well. The onyl PITA is getting the turn signals to work with the stock column.. If you are going GM tilt column (yuck) it does make the hookup easier.

And, I ran the 21 (IIRC) circuit on my 40. It was stupid. I have a TON of unused circuits..

 

[chicago]

BTW, I ran EX wiring as well. The onyl PITA is getting the turn signals to work with the stock column.. If you are going GM tilt column (yuck) it does make the hookup easier.

And, I ran the 21 (IIRC) circuit on my 40. It was stupid. I have a TON of unused circuits..

You mentioned that you had gone with the 21 circuit earlier on this thread, and it seemed to be over kill for the 40.
I was planning on going with the stock cruiser column...Ive got it, so...
What makes the blinkers so complicated?
Im planning on a set of flush mounted tail light and blinkers at the rear, and front and side blinkers on the front....
If that makes any difference?
The rear of the stock harness for the blinkers/ tail lights was HACKED! Donno what the hell the PO was trying to accomplish, but NOTHING was recognizable, crap was d/c'd and the wires were all BLUE!

One questions I do have OFF this topic...
WHEN would be the BEST time to put the power steering stuff in, BEFORE the engine placement, or after?
Seems that the motor would need to be in place, but one would also want to have the knowledge of where the column will be too...

Kind of a dumb question, but...something Ive been a bit hung up on for the execution of the project....

 

[rusty_tlc]

You mentioned that you had gone with the 21 circuit earlier on this thread, and it seemed to be over kill for the 40.
I was planning on going with the stock cruiser column...Ive got it, so...
What makes the blinkers so complicated?
Im planning on a set of flush mounted tail light and blinkers at the rear, and front and side blinkers on the front....
If that makes any difference?
The rear of the stock harness for the blinkers/ tail lights was HACKED! Donno what the hell the PO was trying to accomplish, but NOTHING was recognizable, crap was d/c'd and the wires were all BLUE!

One questions I do have OFF this topic...
WHEN would be the BEST time to put the power steering stuff in, BEFORE the engine placement, or after?
Seems that the motor would need to be in place, but one would also want to have the knowledge of where the column will be too...

Kind of a dumb question, but...something Ive been a bit hung up on for the execution of the project....

You HAVE to keep the front turn signals on the fenders, it's one of the things that makes a 40 a 40.

You could mount the PS gear box anytime, I assume you are using a sag gear box. Are you buying the BTB plate or .....

Of course you need the tub in place to do the linkage. If you recall my set up you might want to have the fenders in place too.

 

[rusty_tlc]

BTW, I ran EX wiring as well. The onyl PITA is getting the turn signals to work with the stock column.. If you are going GM tilt column (yuck) it does make the hookup easier.

And, I ran the 21 (IIRC) circuit on my 40. It was stupid. I have a TON of unused circuits..

X2 What makes it hard to run the turn signals with the stock column?

 

[Mace]

GM column makes a separate front and rear setup. The EZ wiring is designed for this setup. The wiring is labeled, so if you just run it the way it is set up, you won't have front turn signals. Basically, you have to trick it into flashing both signals. Also, IIRC the EZ wiring is set up for separate brake and turn signal bulbs.. So, you need to run a trailer wiring adapter to get the brake lights to work properly with a integrated brake/turn setup.

What form of PS are you planning? IMHO, sag or 60 PS makes it the easiest to position the motor where it needs to be. Although, LOTS of GM conversions have been done with the standard sag conversion..

 

[chicago]

GM column makes a separate front and rear setup. The EZ wiring is designed for this setup. The wiring is labeled, so if you just run it the way it is set up, you won't have front turn signals. Basically, you have to trick it into flashing both signals. Also, IIRC the EZ wiring is set up for separate brake and turn signal bulbs.. So, you need to run a trailer wiring adapter to get the brake lights to work properly with a integrated brake/turn setup.

What form of PS are you planning? IMHO, sag or 60 PS makes it the easiest to position the motor where it needs to be. Although, LOTS of GM conversions have been done with the standard sag conversion..

Mace, Planning on the sag 4 turn, garden variety gear box. Seems that people have good results with it. Rusty... Picked up the mounting plate from OrangeFJ45. I do remember that there was VERY LITTLE clearance between one of the pulleys and your steering shaft. Hence the concern. If the motor is set, there is not a whole lot of options (it seems) to route the steering around. However, now that I think about it, that gear box and plate set up will ONLY go so far into the engine bay... K

 

[Mace]

Using Rod ends and a couple more Steering U joints, you can easily get more room. Not a huge deal..

 

[rusty_tlc]

GM column makes a separate front and rear setup. The EZ wiring is designed for this setup. The wiring is labeled, so if you just run it the way it is set up, you won't have front turn signals. Basically, you have to trick it into flashing both signals. Also, IIRC the EZ wiring is set up for separate brake and turn signal bulbs.. So, you need to run a trailer wiring adapter to get the brake lights to work properly with a integrated brake/turn setup.

What form of PS are you planning? IMHO, sag or 60 PS makes it the easiest to position the motor where it needs to be. Although, LOTS of GM conversions have been done with the standard sag conversion..

I thought about the Euro vs US turn signal thing last night after I posted. The trailer adapter is a good solution.