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- #1,041
Flip that second leaf so that the military wrap is on the frame side
Tried that...it looked funky as far as where the leaves were arranged. They didnt quite line up right?
May be the way that I cut the ALL....
Build Chicago builds a 40
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Tried that...it looked funky as far as where the leaves were arranged. They didnt quite line up right?
May be the way that I cut the ALL....
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Keith-You want the mil wrap on the frame end so if the main leaf breaks, you don't die.
And just in case you don't think main leafs break-each of the last 3 years, someone on the wagon run has broken a leaf spring.
Brett T broke one on Dear Valley the year you went with us.
Anyway, I'm agreeing that you should re-drill the center pin hole and flip the mil wrap leaf around. I have a couple of extras if you want them-I think. I cut a couple up too.
And just in case you don't think main leafs break-each of the last 3 years, someone on the wagon run has broken a leaf spring.
Brett T broke one on Dear Valley the year you went with us.
Anyway, I'm agreeing that you should re-drill the center pin hole and flip the mil wrap leaf around. I have a couple of extras if you want them-I think. I cut a couple up too.
- Thread starter
- #1,043
Its already drilled. I just have to actually flip it. I set it up that way, but like I said...it just looked funky the way the leaves arranged and I thought it wasnt RIGHT.
I remember that Brett busted a mil leaf. That is my one experience with it.
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- #1,044
BTW....Im gonna have to cut one of the spring hangers off and adjust it.
For some reason I havent been able to figure out,cuz everything measures out except the DS front hanger, the shackel at full droop is set at 10 deg., but when I jack it up, its 10 deg steeper than the PS. I swapped the spring after a discussion with locrawlin and its STILL steeper than the other. So one side is at 40 deg and the other at 30...DAMN IT!
Got the flanges drilled and the mini truck shaft FIT! when its in and the weight is on the rig there is about 1.25-1.5 in till it bottoms out....Close! Im gonna run it and see what happens. No need to spend 80 bucks to have it resized if I dont have to.
For some reason I havent been able to figure out,cuz everything measures out except the DS front hanger, the shackel at full droop is set at 10 deg., but when I jack it up, its 10 deg steeper than the PS. I swapped the spring after a discussion with locrawlin and its STILL steeper than the other. So one side is at 40 deg and the other at 30...DAMN IT!
Got the flanges drilled and the mini truck shaft FIT! when its in and the weight is on the rig there is about 1.25-1.5 in till it bottoms out....Close! Im gonna run it and see what happens. No need to spend 80 bucks to have it resized if I dont have to.
I'll be calling you sometime this weekend or next about the top. It's a pita being 400 miles away from my house!!
- Thread starter
- #1,047
Not much...Working on the anti wrap bar and x member for that. Got a bung and heim from T fab. The bung was for 1 3/4 in tubing which is apparently an ODD size to get in DOM, so I ordered a bung and mis alignment spacers from Ruff stuff. That will fit 1 1/2 1/4 wall DOM which is much easier to get.
Set the pinion angle. With the weight on the axle, pointed it AT the diff and dropped it a few deg. allowing for weight an spring settle. The x member is the hardest part. The DS is right in the way, so I opted to run a 2x2, 1/4 wall square tube...Notched the ends so the top half of the end of the tube will sit ON TOP of the frame rail (which Ill scab plate and weld in place) and the lower half will run down the inside of the frame rail. Its directly OVER the DC of the shaft with about 1 in to 1.5 in of clearance....I cant imagine Ill get MORE than an inch of deflection at the output of the t case!?!?
Its these little brackets and cuts and welds and such that take a lot of time
I'll be calling you sometime this weekend or next about the top. It's a pita being 400 miles away from my house!!
Thanks bro!
You just kinda dropped off the face of the earth man.
Hope you are well.
You know, I CAN drive out and pick it up. It wouldnt be a problem. I like the drive out there any way.
Im OFF on Thurs if that would be a good day?
K
I have been up to Reno a few times, but only to compete. You should really come out Sept 11th for the Stampede!!
My wife is going to take the top to work Thursday. She is the GM at the Holiday Inn Express, slide by there and you can grab it.
Sorry to hear your cutting those perches off. Your welds are looking great. Enjoy the build, it's boring when their done.
Where are you buying your Chromo from?
Where are you buying your Chromo from?
- Thread starter
- #1,050
J
I only had to cut ONE hanger off fortunately. Its already done and back on with minimal damage and the shackles are nice and even.
Thanks for the props on the welds! Self taught means there is always a little insecurity.
Going with longs up front and poly's in the rear. However, the rear axles are gonna have to wait...FUNDS! Ill be carrying spares for the time being while running 35's. When I go to 37's, then Ill probably pick up the polys.
Ill be GLAD when its done. This has been all consuming. If im NOT working on her, Im thinking about it.
My wife has PLENTY to keep me occupied once the rig is "done". Floors, bathroom remodel. Ill be busy.
I've got a buddy parting out a crawler. He's got a set of 37" MTR's with maybe 200 on road miles on them if your interested. I don't know a price, but if you want I can find out.
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- #1,052
PM sent! Thanks bro!
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- #1,053
Started the wrap bar. got the x member fit... 1.5 in x 1/4 wall tube, 1/4 in plate. Nothing special and its just tacked in.
Made some shackles, got the heim, bung etc.
Got a set of the ruff stuff "traditional" style wrap bar mounts initially...didnt like the way they were gonna sit, so I exchanged them for the "laid back" style. I had used these before on my 62 build. So while waiting for THOSE to come in, I started on the sag box install. Got the hole cut, the sleeve in and trimmed through the front x member. Then the brackets came....Started setting those and that is where the day ended.
Quite a productive weekend all in all.
Ive gotta get moving on this! No more F' ing around. I need paint on her before the weather turns cold.
BTW.. the 3rd pic is of the bracket I made for the shackle of the wrap bar...just in case anyone was wondering.
Made some shackles, got the heim, bung etc.
Got a set of the ruff stuff "traditional" style wrap bar mounts initially...didnt like the way they were gonna sit, so I exchanged them for the "laid back" style. I had used these before on my 62 build. So while waiting for THOSE to come in, I started on the sag box install. Got the hole cut, the sleeve in and trimmed through the front x member. Then the brackets came....Started setting those and that is where the day ended.
Quite a productive weekend all in all.
Ive gotta get moving on this! No more F' ing around. I need paint on her before the weather turns cold.
BTW.. the 3rd pic is of the bracket I made for the shackle of the wrap bar...just in case anyone was wondering.
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- #1,054
few more!
- Thread starter
- #1,055
Anyone have an opinion of welding the frame seams to limit frame flex?
Im thinking about doing this...
Any pros and cons would be great!
Thanks
K
Im thinking about doing this...
Any pros and cons would be great!
Thanks
K
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
I have thought about doing this. On the 80 series, I think they are welded. On the other hand the frames are engineered to flex. On balance for a non-daily driven truck, it probably does not matter.
Someone posted some pics of doing that. Maybe Poser?
You might want to think about putting a X (2 diagonals attached to each other) somewhere between the frame rails. This will keep the frame in line.
- Thread starter
- #1,059
Thanks for the replies on the frame welds.
The flex design from the factory was something that I had considered as well. However, it seems that 30 plus years on those rivets may be allowing for a bit more than perhaps they should.
I noticed this when I was beating some rivets out yesterday while drilling the sag box hole. There was some movement on the steel around where I was "working". Ill definitely be welding the x member seams for this reason.
I was thinking about 2 in stitch welds every 6 in or so along the frame in a triangle pattern top to bottom.
However, if it needs to flex, then Ill forget it.
The flex design from the factory was something that I had considered as well. However, it seems that 30 plus years on those rivets may be allowing for a bit more than perhaps they should.
I noticed this when I was beating some rivets out yesterday while drilling the sag box hole. There was some movement on the steel around where I was "working". Ill definitely be welding the x member seams for this reason.
I was thinking about 2 in stitch welds every 6 in or so along the frame in a triangle pattern top to bottom.
However, if it needs to flex, then Ill forget it.
My opinion is weld it. I say that because while it was designed to "flex" from the factory, you are not using it the way the factory designed it. You have added a cage, that is bolted to the body, which won't flex (the cage). Yet the frame will still be trying to flex, not good.
Scout II's have a similar frame design (two "C" channnels), but with the Scouts, the two halves are welded together. While Scouts have other problems, frame breaks aren't very common.
Just remember frame flex is very hard on the body. I would weld and plate/fully box the rear part of the frame. Make that thing as strong as possible and you will find that suspension tuning is much easier too.
Everything is looking good man.
Jack
Scout II's have a similar frame design (two "C" channnels), but with the Scouts, the two halves are welded together. While Scouts have other problems, frame breaks aren't very common.
Just remember frame flex is very hard on the body. I would weld and plate/fully box the rear part of the frame. Make that thing as strong as possible and you will find that suspension tuning is much easier too.
Everything is looking good man.
Jack