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Weld the frame. Let your suspension do the flexing. Not the frame.

I'd box the rear with one of the kits as well.

You are tying the cage into the frame directly right?
 
This is what I mean with welding in a X.
It wil give a lot more stability if you can find the space for it.
frame 40.webp
 
Mace said:
Weld the frame. Let your suspension do the flexing. Not the frame.

I'd box the rear with one of the kits as well.

You are tying the cage into the frame directly right?
Click to expand...

My sentiments exactly, no need for frame/body flex if you can avoid it.
 
Alright then...Good points!

Mace. The rear of the frame is boxed already. I did that several mos. back and yes, I will be tying the cage to the frame.

Waiting for time,
I have the rear x member x bumper gusseted as you had illustrated in that triangulated fashion.

Jack.
So the scouts welded the frames? I didnt know that.
Now the question then becomes...would a series of stitch welds be okay, or do I run the entire seam?
Looking at Shawns rig parked on the slabs, the front clip is all out of whack. That is what prompted my concern with this. Then seeing the frame parts move while hammering out rivets kinda really got me considering this that its something I should do.

Thanks for the help gents.
I appreciate it.

K
 
rear of the frame
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I don't see the need for the extra X running from frame to frame.

Stitch welds every so often would be just fine.
 
Mace said:
I don't see the need for the extra X running from frame to frame.

Stitch welds every so often would be just fine.
Click to expand...

Your probably right, it would just bring something extra but the rear will do a good job in this frame.
 
Shawn can verify but I think his front has issues other than flex. If you look the whole front end is from a different cruiser than the tub, so there is probably some history there.

Not that you shouldn't be doing what you are with the frame, just pointing out that Shawn's truck isn't typical.


It will be interesting to see how much your truck weighs when you are done. I think you are making up for the 200# you lost up front on the engine swap with extra metal in the rear. :lol:
 
rusty_tlc said:
Shawn can verify but I think his front has issues other than flex. If you look the whole front end is from a different cruiser than the tub, so there is probably some history there.

Not that you shouldn't be doing what you are with the frame, just pointing out that Shawn's truck isn't typical.


It will be interesting to see how much your truck weighs when you are done. I think you are making up for the 200# you lost up front on the engine swap with extra metal in the rear. :lol:
Click to expand...

Yeah...Especially the wrap bar. Having been privy to a few failures that you have had with your set up and seeing the impact of it, Im taking that lead and going pretty heavy gauge on everything for mine especially with the V8 in front. This s*** gets heavy quick...that's for sure. 1/4 in wall DOM isnt cheap either.:doh:. However, it beats a busted rear pinion on the granite bowl. Mine would be on Caddilac at the hair pin rock at the beginning.:D
 
Ill just go ahead and to the stitch welds then. Im figuring about 4in long Q 6-8 in staggered top and bottom? Wont take that long once I pull the tub AGAIN.

Thanks for the help gents.
 
Got the wrap bar welded, painted and installed with the brackets welded on the housing. Got the DD cut into the steering shaft, and did quite a bit of steel refurbishing and painting on the stock steering stuff. It was looking pretty ratty...Couple of pics.
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Couple more.
Ill be setting the shackle on the end at a little more of an angle by running out the heim a bit.
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Gonna finish welding the x member and shackle hanger today, then pull the axle and weld the perches in and paint....Waiting on some replacement center bolts from Beano (thanks man!). When I get those, Ill flip the Mil. wrap around and call that good.
From what I gather from Beano is the center pins for the leaf springs are VERY HARD to get. For some reason he seemed to think that they may have actually MADE one for me in Japan?

Couple questions....Do yo need a new pinion nut when you pull the flange?
The reason I ask, is I re drilled the flange on the donor 60 axle that is currently under the rig. I have my locked 4.88 diff sitting in wait.
If I pull the flange off the 4.88 to replace it with the re drilled flange, will that mess anything up as far as the pinion depth etc?
 
chicago said:
Gonna finish welding the x member and shackle hanger today, then pull the axle and weld the perches in and paint....Waiting on some replacement center bolts from Beano (thanks man!). When I get those, Ill flip the Mil. wrap around and call that good.
From what I gather from Beano is the center pins for the leaf springs are VERY HARD to get. For some reason he seemed to think that they may have actually MADE one for me in Japan?

Couple questions....Do yo need a new pinion nut when you pull the flange?
The reason I ask, is I re drilled the flange on the donor 60 axle that is currently under the rig. I have my locked 4.88 diff sitting in wait.
If I pull the flange off the 4.88 to replace it with the re drilled flange, will that mess anything up as far as the pinion depth etc?
Click to expand...


The spring center bolts are available from Napa. "Rockford". They are usually in the blue bins.
 
Cruiserdrew said:
The spring center bolts are available from Napa. "Rockford". They are usually in the blue bins.
Click to expand...
Sam also has them as well as Johns Spring shop over on Sunshine Lane.

A couple of spares are a good idea.
 
rusty_tlc said:
Sam also has them as well as Johns Spring shop over on Sunshine Lane.

A couple of spares are a good idea.
Click to expand...

Went to Johns...All they had were 3/8. They allowed just a bit too much slop for my liking on them. Im keeping them for spares as you mentioned, but...
Andy. I do recall you posting the NAPA rockford pins. I went to napa and the guy spent about a half an hour with me trying to find them and we came up empty. He was the one that suggested John's spring mentioned above. So I called Onur from there.

Theyre on their way in any case.
 
chicago said:
Went to Johns...All they had were 3/8. They allowed just a bit too much slop for my liking on them. Im keeping them for spares as you mentioned, but...
Andy. I do recall you posting the NAPA rockford pins. I went to napa and the guy spent about a half an hour with me trying to find them and we came up empty. He was the one that suggested John's spring mentioned above. So I called Onur from there.

Theyre on their way in any case.
Click to expand...


Funny-The Napa that's about 300 yards from the hospital swore they knew nothing about them, never heard of them, didn't exist, etc. I asked to look in the blue bins behind the counter and found them in less than 15 seconds. They seriously had 4 bins of them, all different sizes. I think I told you I drill out the spring holes a bit and run the 7/16 pins.

7/16 Allen head cap screws from the normal hardware store make an excellent spring pin too.
 
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