Builds Chicago builds a 40 (5 Viewers)

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I was re-reading this thread looking for some info and saw this post;

Since when has having something built stopped you from starting over?:flipoff2:

I'm warning you you start thinking like this and that truck will be on the road before I have grandchildren.

I now have a Grand Daughter. :grinpimp:
 
rusty_tlc said:
I was re-reading this thread looking for some info and saw this post;

I now have a Grand Daughter. :grinpimp:

Congrats

Sent from outer space via my mind
 
Keith, thought you might appreciate this

Finally got my 1969 FJ40 with 2004 5.3 vortec and 4l60e running. Your cruiser was a big inspiration. Thanks! http://youtu.be/ur9pR-icLjE
 
Finally got my 1969 FJ40 with 2004 5.3 vortec and 4l60e running. Your cruiser was a big inspiration. Thanks! http://youtu.be/ur9pR-icLjE

Cool stuff brother!! Congrats on that huge step and I hope you're enjoying it.
Glad the thread helped. The reason I do threads, when I'm doing something, is to give back to the community here that has helped and inspired me along the way.

K
 
Congrats Rusty! Nice to see you out at the springs Keith. Sometime we've got to actually hit the trail together. I may try to find time for the Deer Valley Run and beg my way in.

Yeah buddy!!
I, unfortunately, didn't get much time to hang at the springs.
It was a LONG DAY wheeling in Friday. I think we logged about 9 or 10 hours NON STOP getting there that day. Had a few issues w/ one of the rigs.
Hope you can make the deer valley/ slick rock run. We're leaving hermit valley at 10, FYI. some of us will be camping at HV campground Friday night.

K
 
Cool stuff brother!! Congrats on that huge step and I hope you're enjoying it.
Glad the thread helped. The reason I do threads, when I'm doing something, is to give back to the community here that has helped and inspired me along the way.

K
Thanks again. Im still fixing the little things like ridiculous amounts of axle wrap and hazard switch wiring but the 5.3 vortec is bad ass!
 
Getting the front mocked up.
Got this MASSIVE outboarding gusset from Ruff stuff when I ordered the soa kit....not too sure about it either. May take it away.

Sorry to bring this back up from so long ago, but I'm about to start a similar project and had a couple of questions regarding the springs, bushings, etc.

The original pictures aren't showing up in the 'quote' above, so, for reference, this is in reply to post 1177 here:

original post

I'm doing a spring over using 40 axles, flipped 60 series rear springs on all 4 corners, and Ruff Stuff's FJ40 stock axle SOA kit. I've got the 289-40-X bushings from SOR as was documented in a different thread (I think by cruiserdrew). I'd appreciate some clarification on the mounting hardware.

1) Do I need to use sleeves with these bushings?

2) Is it a requirement that the bolt/pin through the fixed end of the spring not spin? I've noticed that a lot of SOA builds don't use the OEM style spring pins any longer (like in the first picture in the link above). If you use a normal bolt instead, does that bolt head need to be tacked to the spring hanger to prevent it from spinning or would a nyloc nut be sufficient?

3) I've noticed on several threads that the bolts in the top and bottom of the shackle have been run in opposite directions (like in the second picture in the link above). Is there a reason to do this?

4) Originally I was planning to use the 5/8" greasable shackle bolts from SOR at all three mount points (both ends of the shackle and at the fixed spring hanger), but I'm starting to have second thoughts after reading about these bolts' tendency to shear. Anyone have comments on using these particular bolts for this application vs, say, regular grade 8 bolts?

I apologize if these are dumb questions that have been answered a million times in the past. I'm pretty new to this, and I'm trying to get my head wrapped around all of this before completely diving in. I appreciate the help!

JT
 
JT,
The sleeves are a good idea to use as the tend to save the bushings from pre mature wear.

You do not need to tack the hanger bolt to the hanger as Toyota did. I'm currently using a standard bolt and nut, but I will be swapping in a nylock this winter.

As far as reversing the shackle end bolts... The pic posted was just a mock up. I run both nuts to the inside and I'm not aware that there is a requirement to stagger em.

K
 
Thank you, sir; I've learned a ton from your build thread!

Oh, and I apologize for the hijack...probably should have asked in new thread.

JT
 
No worries.
Help is the reason I and others do these threads here.
I forgot... The greasable shackles can and do break as you talked about above.
I used regular bolts for that reason. Up to you though.
 
Damn you Keith! I started re-reading this thread a couple of weeks ago and now I've melted my credit card and the cruiser is sitting on blocks with suspension being cut of and body work started. You make body work look so easy. Do you remember the dimensions on your gas tank? Anything you would change on your tank if you were to do it again?


Thanks,
B
 
Damn you Keith! I started re-reading this thread a couple of weeks ago and now I've melted my credit card and the cruiser is sitting on blocks with suspension being cut of and body work started. You make body work look so easy. Do you remember the dimensions on your gas tank? Anything you would change on your tank if you were to do it again?

Thanks,
B

Lol... Sorry about the late response!!!
I didn't see this posted till I went looking for another thread!!
D 8x L 19x W 25 are the tank dimensions.
If I were to do it again, I'd probably NOT mess w/ the stock tank and try and work it. However, given my doubler set up, I was forced to re locate the tank and I ABSOLUTELY did NOT want to run a fuel cell.
That being said... As far as the design as it sits, given the situation .... I wouldn't do a thing differently. I'm extremely happy w/ the whole design. I love how its mounted, I love NOT having fuel IN THE RIG and centered low, I'm glad I went the extra mile to getting an in tank pump....
Still.... It was a SH!T TON of work making it happen.
One down side, if I wanted to do a centered rear output t case like an atlas.... I'd be hosed. Same thing w/ a centered rear axle.
I'm NOT in love w/ that limitation as I like options. :)
Hope that answers your question.

K
 
Holy jeez mother of all things awesome :cool: .... I have just spent four days (on and off) reading every last word on this thread .... while I'm glad the thread is now finished I just wanted to say that I have thoroughly enjoyed reading this thread .. I even felt disappointed when things didn't go to plans and excited when they did or new bits arrived .... wow .. what a roller coaster read .... :cool: ..

anyone who isn't impressed at what you have achieved might as well be dead imo
seriously hope your 40 is around a long time for you and all of us to appreciate.

Carl
 
Holy jeez mother of all things awesome :cool: .... I have just spent four days (on and off) reading every last word on this thread .... while I'm glad the thread is now finished I just wanted to say that I have thoroughly enjoyed reading this thread .. I even felt disappointed when things didn't go to plans and excited when they did or new bits arrived .... wow .. what a roller coaster read .... :cool: ..

anyone who isn't impressed at what you have achieved might as well be dead imo
seriously hope your 40 is around a long time for you and all of us to appreciate.

Carl

Lol... Thanks Carl!!
It is a LOOOOOONG EFFING THREAD for sure.
Glad you enjoyed it and hopefully it helped in some way.
I have to dig back from time to time and look for certain things.... I have PTSD from it. :)

K
 
Having wheeled this for a bit now, I'm finding things that I could have done better and wear and tear type things that were TIGHT to begin with now have become a problem.
With the shackle reversal and how I did it w/ stock FJ60 springs, the drag link clearance was pretty tight. Now that the springs have settled to FLAT, that clearance had become NIL and as a result I ended up breaking a pitman arm on the trail!!
Reviewed all my options for a while and opted to swap out my steering arms.
4x4 labs makes arms for the 6 shooter knuckles and decided to go w/ his "FROMBE " configuration. He was able to bend the arms UP an extra 1/2 inch. Switching to that, I had to shorten the TR and DL. knowing this, low range off road has weld in bungs for the FJ80 TRE's
So... If you're struggling for clearance from the get go w/ your set up, you might wanna consider checking out 4x4labs set up right outta the gate.

Here's a couple of the "after" pics w/ the new steering arms.
Gotta say as well.... They seemed to really tighten up the steering, too. Donno how or why, but what little bit of bump steer I had, is now completely gone.

image-3670253403.jpg


image-1257100799.jpg


image-2938434286.jpg
 
BTW, the last pic is the "problem side" which is FULL STUFF, driver side w wheels cranked driver side. Still tight, but there's an 1/8 in of clearance.
It'll still rub, I'm sure, but it won't be cranking into the leafs any more.
 
It is great how you are updating as things settle and you've used it a while. I hope you keep it going as you make more changes. Alot of threads peter out and you never know if things ever worked out.
 

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