Reminder to check your power connections, of any kind, on any brand device. This video is regarding a Victron device, but could happen to others.
Check your power connections (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter bluesquirrel
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Related: If you use a tapered flat screw driver blade to tighten the wire retention screws on the Victron controllers its difficult to get good effective tightening torque to the screw/wire terminal.
I went with a straight sided screwdriver blade and due to the increased surface area between the screwdriver blade and the screw terminal I was able to get additional torque onto the terminal screw & thus clamping pressure to the wire/ferrule.
I went with a straight sided screwdriver blade and due to the increased surface area between the screwdriver blade and the screw terminal I was able to get additional torque onto the terminal screw & thus clamping pressure to the wire/ferrule.
So watching the video I'm struck by the statement from the Victron rep, "Yeah, the output is a constant 20 Amps..."
How the heck does that work w/literally no input during the hours of no sun light? Or what about the charge profiles it should be adhering to?
20 solar amps is alot, but let's just go with it for a moment...how are those 'tiny' wires to move 20Amps reliably anyway? They are just too small imo.
I'm running the 75/15 and jammed 8 ga wires into the batt connectors for safety sake.
And my panel can only do like 3 amps@ 24V on its greatest day ever.
How the heck does that work w/literally no input during the hours of no sun light? Or what about the charge profiles it should be adhering to?
20 solar amps is alot, but let's just go with it for a moment...how are those 'tiny' wires to move 20Amps reliably anyway? They are just too small imo.
I'm running the 75/15 and jammed 8 ga wires into the batt connectors for safety sake.
And my panel can only do like 3 amps@ 24V on its greatest day ever.
^ Yes, he made some dubious comments but obviously a good idea to check connections every so often. Good to be visually reminded.
(8ga is overkill for 15A IMO, but if you can or want to do it, why not.)
(8ga is overkill for 15A IMO, but if you can or want to do it, why not.)
^ not to quibble...oh what the hell 
: Wire capacity is related to distance and current. Yes, "we" already know this 
: Wire capacity is related to distance and current. Yes, "we" already know this
LOL, sure but he's talking about safety here, not voltage drop... Not to mention that if his panel is doing 3A at 24V, he's seeing 6A or so at the most at 12V, not even close to 15A. But, eh, I love 8ga as much as the next guy (or more)...
The output would have 12V but the current is 1 way, the controller load is nominal, just the led indicator light on mine, no display so to say the + wire to Batt has 20 amps is misleading because that implies there is a load pulling that current and there shouldnt be from a solar controller. I think my controller is 125w. 8 amp max. The + output to batt from solar control has a 10 amp fuse on mine and it has never popped. Did you have a load connected to the solar controller ? And do you know if that load on controller is solar only or does it back feed from batt when no solar input ?
It is, but I just don't want to have to worry about it if, for example, I upgrade the panel and/or even the SC at some point.
Correct. It was a "while I was in there" thing. lol^ not to quibble...oh what the hell
Correct, not close to the max of this particular SC.LOL, sure but he's talking about safety here, not voltage drop... Not to mention that if his panel is doing 3A at 24V, he's seeing 6A or so at the most at 12V, not even close to 15A. But, eh, I love 8ga as much as the next guy (or more)...
